Eshland S 260 Rebuild

That's pretty good mileage there H.B. Glad to hear you got your controls figured out. Your ash is looking pretty much like mine.

-Don

Thanks. I’m debating messing with the temp setting, but I don’t think it’s going to change anything. I think it only really effects fire height, I don’t really think it effects fire performance.

Yah, I think you're right. Play'in with the ashing temp doesn't seem to change the ash much.

-Don

StokerDon wrote: ↑

Sun. Dec. 02, 2018 9:18 pm

Yah, I think you're right. Play'in with the ashing temp doesn't seem to change the ash much.

-Don

But between a AA and a Eshland, only the AA can adjust ratchet clicks to speed up or slow down RATE of coal in and ash out .

McGiever wrote: ↑

Sun. Dec. 02, 2018 10:07 pm

But between a AA and a Eshland, only the AA can adjust ratchet clicks to speed up or slow down RATE of coal in and ash out .

The AHS has had the ability to speed up and slow down the rate of ashing for several years now. Mine does not, but the current ones do.

McGiever wrote: ↑

Sun. Dec. 02, 2018 10:07 pm

But between a AA and a Eshland, only the AA can adjust ratchet clicks to speed up or slow down RATE of coal in and ash out .

Right, but temp setting doesn’t change anything.

hotblast1357 wrote: ↑

Mon. Dec. 03, 2018 5:31 am

Right, but temp setting doesn’t change anything.

Works for me.

I had some black in my ash last year, but I never paid any attention to it till all these threads came about this year.

The ashing every combustion fan cycle thing deff wasn’t helping though, thing was ashing all the time!

It’s been a week now, and I can say one thing for sure, the ash pan is a lot lighter lol

So, the only worry with a power outage has been that the circulator stops running, this boiler has never gone over 200 degrees with the constant circulation setup, it just hovers there for a long time.. but of coarse if power goes out there’s a chance it will overshoot with no way of shedding the heat except the PRV.

So after looking at a few threads on here, I built my own UPS. All the parts are from amazon, except the battery box, which I bought at Walmart. I will do a test probably Sunday morning to see how long it will run, but it should go 6 hours easy drawing the battery down to 50%. I removed one of the 120vac plugs from the inverter, and ran the 120vac grid power in through the hole. I also removed the on/off SPST switch, and ran it to the relay to be switched on and off, I hardwired the small 12vdc internal fan so that it runs all the time to keep the new 14 pin 4PDT relay cool if it gets warm. I also have a battery tender/charger hooked up to the deep cycle battery.

All in all, about $450. New 4pdt relay installed inside. Wiring diagram for relay.

Universal UB121000-45978 12v 100AH Deep Cycle AGM Battery 12V 24V 48V(Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S1RT58C/ref=cm_sw_r_ ... eCbD4K081V VertaMax PURE SINE WAVE 500 Watt (1000W Surge) 12V Power Inverter DC to AC Power - Solar, RV, Car, Off Grid https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPSF1D9/ref=cm_sw_r_ ... eCbFJYHBJK GiBot Cable Glands - 25 Pack... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0748JLNR4?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

WATERWICH 12V 24V Volt Meter LED Digital Display DC Voltmeter Voltage Meter with Terminals for Car Automobiles Motorcycle Truck Boat Marine (12V-24V Blue Voltmeter) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071ZRMP65/ref=cm_sw_r_ ... eCbZJVDE9E Siemens 3TX7117-5HF13C Basic Plug In Relay, Square Base, Narrow, Mechanical Flag, 4PDT Contacts, 15A Contact Rating, 120VAC Coil Voltage https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0091WJBS0/ref=cm_sw_r_ ... eCbR5D7YBT LST 12V 5A Automatic Battery Charger Maintainer Smart Portable Deep Cycle Trickle Charger for Automotive Car Boat Motorcycle Lawn Mower RV SLA ATV AGM GEL CELL WET& FLOODED Lead Acid Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F8V8FFT/ref=cm_sw_r_ ... eCb7B0T2VZ

There isn't a worry about these things "overheating" above 200°, they routinely operate at 250° on steam.

coaledsweat wrote: ↑

Thu. Dec. 13, 2018 10:33 pm

There isn't a worry about these things "overheating" above 200°, they routinely operate at 250° on steam.

Yup but there is when you have pex in the system.

The boiling point of water is:

For 10 PSI: 239.4 deg.
For 12 PSI: 243.7 deg.
For 14 PSI: 247.8 deg.
For 16 PSI: 251.7 deg.

For 30 PSI: 274.1 deg.

I doubt the boiler would ever hit 274 degrees in a power failure. But while circulating your underground run will not freeze.

I just ran a 3 coefficient quadraratic regression of PEX temperature and pressure data and it should be safe at these ranges:

For 10 PSI: 255.5 deg. max
For 12 PSI: 254.16 deg. max
For 14 PSI: 252.77 deg. max
For 16 PSI: 251.37 deg. max

For 30 PSI: 241.3 deg. max

The PEX quadratic regression formula is:
Safe operating pressure =156.010781671159+0.308775082359988*x - 0.00344414495357892*x^2
(where x = water temperature)

The R squared coefficient for this quadratic formula is exactly 1, meaning this formula matches published PEX temperature and safe operating pressure data I found at the link below 100% perfectly.

https://www.pexuniverse.com/pex-tubing-technical-specs

Forum member Yanchee intentionally runs his AHS S130 with no dump zone, stating that he hates to dump good heat. From memory, he has stated that it never climbs above about 235 degrees during power outages. Rather, it simply reaches an equalibrium point and then sits there, before eventually falling in temperature. He relies solely upon an expansion tank.

Yes that is all very good information. Thanks for the numbers Larry.

My pex line cannot freeze, it is 6’ down.

This is for the worst case scenario, somehow boiler gets to high of pressure, ends up blowing out PRV, then I have no water to automatically refill due to the power being out. So the circulator can just keep things running uniformly.

This is obviously for the times I am not home to run the generator.