Coalpail.com Forum

Looks good so far.

Set the feed on 5 clicks and the air on 4.5, crank up the heat in the house and use a bunch of hot water. This should give the stoker a nice long burn, and will cure the paint on the base and fire door. Depending on the heat load of your house, you may be able to go back to 4/4 afterwards.

Congratz, I will never get tired of looking at that machine do its thing, and its nice that the wife can appreciate it as well. You did a great job.....

Nice job! Nothing like the thrill of that first fire in a newly installed boiler!

Looks great!!!

Another one comes to life!

Nice look'in boiler there Myers!

-Don

StokerDon wrote:Another one comes to life!

Nice look'in boiler there Myers!

-Don

Thanks Don.... It feels good to get it online and having it make heat.

I am planning on adding the timer to the EFM have not needed so far but now that it is getting warmer out side I think it would be good to have.

It was a bit rusty A little paint and good as new
I am also going to add a new HydroStat 3250 this weekend and I want to add tie into the HydroStat
I should be able to take the #4 to the ZR on the HydroStat I am only using the timer as a timer has anyone hook one of the Honeywell timers to the HydraStats?

I should be able to take the #4 to the ZR on the HydroStat I am only using the timer as a timer has anyone hook one of the Honeywell timers to the HydraStats?

Yes, that is how you need to hook it up. You will also need to flip the little switch in the top right (top right corner of the circuit board) of the Hydrostat to "Indirect Mode".

Rob R. wrote:

I should be able to take the #4 to the ZR on the HydroStat I am only using the timer as a timer has anyone hook one of the Honeywell timers to the HydraStats?

Yes, that is how you need to hook it up. You will also need to flip the little switch in the top right (top right corner of the circuit board) of the Hydrostat to "Indirect Mode".

Thanks Rob for information I thought I was on the right track but it's good to confirm it and I forgot about the indirect mode switch.

Does anyone know if you have power to the Honeywell 883B timers it should be running the motor for the timer I think I have one that is DOA.

I had tested it before and it did run but I get nothing now.

myers007 wrote:I had tested it before and it did run but I get nothing now.

Your get nothing now, as in, the timer doesn't run the stoker, OR the clock motor in the timer doesn't run?

If you have the timer run through a HI limit, the stoker won't run if the boiler is above the HI limit.

If the clock motor in the timer is not connected to a constant hot and neutral, it won't work right.

-Don

Don it is connected to constant hot and neutral and the clock motor is not running the high limit should not affect the clock only the relay for the stocker right.

Mark

If there is power to the timer, the clock motor should run.

Just for fun, have you verified power across terminals 1 and 2 in the timer?

Rob R. wrote:If there is power to the timer, the clock motor should run.

Just for fun, have you verified power across terminals 1 and 2 in the timer?

No but I will I check that but a test where I ran a pig tail cord plugged into wall out let wired to the 1 and 2 on the timer and it did not run.

I just checked with a meter and yes I have power across 1 and 2 this is odd I know I tested and this did run.

I guess I will pull it from my board and check inside to see of something got loose.