EFM DF520 Install

 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Sun. Mar. 12, 2017 7:38 am

Looks good so far.

Set the feed on 5 clicks and the air on 4.5, crank up the heat in the house and use a bunch of hot water. This should give the stoker a nice long burn, and will cure the paint on the base and fire door. Depending on the heat load of your house, you may be able to go back to 4/4 afterwards.


 
waldo lemieux
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Post by waldo lemieux » Sun. Mar. 12, 2017 7:47 am

Congratz, I will never get tired of looking at that machine do its thing, and its nice that the wife can appreciate it as well. You did a great job.....

 
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coalkirk
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Post by coalkirk » Sun. Mar. 12, 2017 7:55 am

Nice job! Nothing like the thrill of that first fire in a newly installed boiler!

 
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CoalHeat
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Post by CoalHeat » Sun. Mar. 12, 2017 10:17 am

Looks great!!!

 
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StokerDon
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Post by StokerDon » Sun. Mar. 12, 2017 12:20 pm

Another one comes to life!

Nice look'in boiler there Myers!

-Don

 
myers007
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Post by myers007 » Sun. Mar. 12, 2017 8:50 pm

StokerDon wrote:Another one comes to life!

Nice look'in boiler there Myers!

-Don
Thanks Don.... It feels good to get it online and having it make heat.

 
myers007
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Post by myers007 » Fri. Mar. 24, 2017 10:30 pm

I am planning on adding the timer to the EFM have not needed so far but now that it is getting warmer out side I think it would be good to have.

It was a bit rusty
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A little paint and good as new
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I am also going to add a new HydroStat 3250 this weekend and I want to add tie into the HydroStat
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I should be able to take the #4 to the ZR on the HydroStat I am only using the timer as a timer has anyone hook one of the Honeywell timers to the HydraStats?


 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Sat. Mar. 25, 2017 7:15 am

I should be able to take the #4 to the ZR on the HydroStat I am only using the timer as a timer has anyone hook one of the Honeywell timers to the HydraStats?
Yes, that is how you need to hook it up. You will also need to flip the little switch in the top right (top right corner of the circuit board) of the Hydrostat to "Indirect Mode".

 
myers007
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Post by myers007 » Sat. Mar. 25, 2017 1:38 pm

Rob R. wrote:
I should be able to take the #4 to the ZR on the HydroStat I am only using the timer as a timer has anyone hook one of the Honeywell timers to the HydraStats?
Yes, that is how you need to hook it up. You will also need to flip the little switch in the top right (top right corner of the circuit board) of the Hydrostat to "Indirect Mode".
Thanks Rob for information I thought I was on the right track but it's good to confirm it and I forgot about the indirect mode switch.

 
myers007
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Coal Size/Type: Nut and rice
Other Heating: Oil boiler

Post by myers007 » Sun. Apr. 02, 2017 2:11 pm

Does anyone know if you have power to the Honeywell 883B timers it should be running the motor for the timer I think I have one that is DOA.

I had tested it before and it did run but I get nothing now.

 
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StokerDon
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Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Harman SF3500 reduced down to 3 grates connected to its own plenum
Coal Size/Type: Rice, Chestnut and whatever will fit through the door on the Harman
Other Heating: Noth'in but COAL! Well, Maybe a little tiny bit of wood

Post by StokerDon » Sun. Apr. 02, 2017 4:19 pm

myers007 wrote:I had tested it before and it did run but I get nothing now.
Your get nothing now, as in, the timer doesn't run the stoker, OR the clock motor in the timer doesn't run?

If you have the timer run through a HI limit, the stoker won't run if the boiler is above the HI limit.

If the clock motor in the timer is not connected to a constant hot and neutral, it won't work right.

-Don

 
myers007
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Stoker Coal Boiler: V & E coal Sotker never used EFM 520 coal stoker
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Eshland C40 boiler coal, wood and electric
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Gibraltar fire palce insert
Coal Size/Type: Nut and rice
Other Heating: Oil boiler

Post by myers007 » Sun. Apr. 02, 2017 5:09 pm

Don it is connected to constant hot and neutral and the clock motor is not running the high limit should not affect the clock only the relay for the stocker right.

Mark
Last edited by coaledsweat on Sun. Apr. 02, 2017 5:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: Sorry boss, I had to fix it :)

 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Sun. Apr. 02, 2017 5:30 pm

If there is power to the timer, the clock motor should run.

Just for fun, have you verified power across terminals 1 and 2 in the timer?

 
myers007
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Location: Newburg Pa
Stoker Coal Boiler: V & E coal Sotker never used EFM 520 coal stoker
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Eshland C40 boiler coal, wood and electric
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Gibraltar fire palce insert
Coal Size/Type: Nut and rice
Other Heating: Oil boiler

Post by myers007 » Sun. Apr. 02, 2017 6:01 pm

Rob R. wrote:If there is power to the timer, the clock motor should run.

Just for fun, have you verified power across terminals 1 and 2 in the timer?
No but I will I check that but a test where I ran a pig tail cord plugged into wall out let wired to the 1 and 2 on the timer and it did not run.

 
myers007
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Posts: 42
Joined: Fri. Jul. 17, 2015 7:54 pm
Location: Newburg Pa
Stoker Coal Boiler: V & E coal Sotker never used EFM 520 coal stoker
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Eshland C40 boiler coal, wood and electric
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Gibraltar fire palce insert
Coal Size/Type: Nut and rice
Other Heating: Oil boiler

Post by myers007 » Sun. Apr. 02, 2017 6:11 pm

I just checked with a meter and yes I have power across 1 and 2 this is odd I know I tested and this did run.

I guess I will pull it from my board and check inside to see of something got loose.


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