Coal Gun S- 130 Install

FirstcoalstokerRon · Post by **FirstcoalstokerRon** » Thu. Feb. 16, 2017 1:47 pm

McGiever wrote:Where is "Sting"?

I'll go out on a limb here and say this can't be drawn correct.
In my mind, as drawn, the path of least resistance is staight out from Supply...back in to the Return...the emmiters are left COLD!

But, ya learn something new everyday

ok I think its me that is confusing everything ill start over and see if I can get it right

lsayre · Post by **lsayre** » Thu. Feb. 16, 2017 2:02 pm

I took it that the supply lines going to the users passed under (or over) the common return manifold.

McGiever · Post by **McGiever** » Thu. Feb. 16, 2017 2:27 pm

lsayre wrote:I took it that the supply lines going to the users passed under (or over) the common return manifold.

Oh, okay that makes it better.

Disregard what I said earlier, it works, my bad.

FirstcoalstokerRon · Post by **FirstcoalstokerRon** » Thu. Feb. 16, 2017 8:33 pm

I was told that I have a monoflow system that has a 1.25" line that comes out of the boiler and goes about 30' across the basement then splits into two 1" lines that feeds the baseboard in each room. It has one circulator and one thermostat for both loops, each loop has diverter-tees that causes water to flow into and out of the baseboards back into the loop, then the two loops join together just before they return to the bottom of the boiler.

I am going to cut into the 1.25" loop and make two zones each with its own circulator and thermostat pumping from the primary loop into the zones and then joins into a return loop that goes into the boiler, it does not return to the primary loop by way of tees. The last circulator comes off of the loop with an elbow rather than a tee and does not form a primary loop returning to the return.

Should I remove the elbow and install a tee it so it goes back into the return? Would that be a bypass loop? Would it gravity feed or would I need to add a circulator to mix hot water from the supply line to the cooler water in the return? Do I also need a check valve and/or other valves to make it work??

McGiever · Post by **McGiever** » Thu. Feb. 16, 2017 11:30 pm

FirstcoalstokerRon wrote:

Should I remove the elbow and install a tee it so it goes back into the return? Would that be a bypass loop? No bypass needed on your boiler. Would it gravity feed or would I need to add a circulator to mix hot water from the supply line to the cooler water in the return? Again, no bypass needed, but if there was, a pump would not be needed. Do I also need a check valve and/or other valves to make it work?? Carry on, you have bigger fish to fry.

FirstcoalstokerRon · Post by **FirstcoalstokerRon** » Fri. Feb. 17, 2017 1:28 am

McGiever wrote:
FirstcoalstokerRon wrote:

Should I remove the elbow and install a tee it so it goes back into the return? Would that be a bypass loop? No bypass needed on your boiler. Would it gravity feed or would I need to add a circulator to mix hot water from the supply line to the cooler water in the return? Again, no bypass needed, but if there was, a pump would not be needed. Do I also need a check valve and/or other valves to make it work?? Carry on, you have bigger fish to fry.

Thanks McGiever I will do as u say now I know I don't need a bypass I will move on and thanks again

lsayre · Post by **lsayre** » Fri. Feb. 17, 2017 6:16 am

Are the valves (V = valves) in your drawing zone valves or ball valves? What is 'X'?

FirstcoalstokerRon · Post by **FirstcoalstokerRon** » Fri. Feb. 17, 2017 12:26 pm

lsayre wrote:Are the valves (V = valves) in your drawing zone valves or ball valves? What is 'X'?

The x's are circulators one for each zone and the valves are ball valves before each circulator

lsayre · Post by **lsayre** » Fri. Feb. 17, 2017 1:35 pm

FirstcoalstokerRon wrote:The x's are circulators one for each zone and the valves are ball valves before each circulator

Is that how your system is currently, or does it currently have zone valves that you intend to replace with circulators?

FirstcoalstokerRon · Post by **FirstcoalstokerRon** » Fri. Feb. 17, 2017 7:13 pm

lsayre wrote:
FirstcoalstokerRon wrote:The x's are circulators one for each zone and the valves are ball valves before each circulator

Is that how your system is currently, or does it currently have zone valves that you intend to replace with circulators?

The currant system is a 1.25" line that comes out of the boiler and crosses the basement then splits into two 1" lines that feed the baseboard in each room and then joins back together before returning to the boiler. Currently I am using an instant electric boiler that has one circulator and one thermostat for both loops. No zone valves. I am going to split the 1 zone into 3 or 4 zones, each with a circulator and thermostat and ill add 2 or 3 more zones later. I am using circulators instead of zone valves as I have 4 or 5 circulators on hand. The first two zones are dry fit I was waiting for answers about a bypass before soldering them in place.

lsayre · Post by **lsayre** » Fri. Feb. 17, 2017 7:51 pm

OK, then your drawing (about 11 posts above) represents only half of your system, correct? What does the other half look like?

FirstcoalstokerRon · Post by **FirstcoalstokerRon** » Fri. Feb. 17, 2017 8:56 pm

lsayre wrote:OK, then your drawing (about 11 posts above) represents only half of your system, correct? What does the other half look like?

As of now I have a 1.25" copper loop running across the basement where it splits into two 1" loops the left loop runs to a radiator in the basement and then to 3 bedrooms and the bathroom then returns to the boiler. The right loop into a crawl space under the living room and small dinning room then returns to the boiler, all rooms have fin-tube baseboards. There is no heat in the kitchen as the house is very open.

The back room is a mostly glass spa room 28' by 38' with a swim tank and a hot tub. It is 3/4 copper pipe with fin-tube baseboards all around outside walls. It is not heated as of now, as I closed it off when I went to an electric boiler. I want to make the basement and bed rooms zone 1, the living room and dinning room zone 2, the bathroom zone 3. I will add zones to the spa room later. I was thinking I could make the radiator in the basement the dump zone.
Sorry that the diagram is so bad I will try to make it easer to understand

FirstcoalstokerRon · Post by **FirstcoalstokerRon** » Tue. Feb. 21, 2017 2:27 pm

I just wanted to say thanks for all the help with my COAL GUN S-130 that all of u have given me. I was almost done with the soldering when I noticed that the hot water coil face plate has 3 holes in it, one is the domestic water inlet and the 2nd is the domestic hot water outlet. What is the third tapping used for as it goes into the boiler water not into the domestic hot water coil? The temperature/pressure gauge is in the other end above and to the right of the sight hole.

lsayre · Post by **lsayre** » Tue. Feb. 21, 2017 2:37 pm

FirstcoalstokerRon wrote:I was almost done with the soldering when I noticed that the hot water coil face plate has 3 holes in it, one is the domestic water inlet and the 2nd is the domestic hot water outlet. What is the third tapping used for as it goes into the boiler water not into the domestic hot water coil?

Just leave it plugged.

FirstcoalstokerRon · Post by **FirstcoalstokerRon** » Tue. Feb. 21, 2017 3:29 pm

lsayre wrote:
FirstcoalstokerRon wrote:I was almost done with the soldering when I noticed that the hot water coil face plate has 3 holes in it, one is the domestic water inlet and the 2nd is the domestic hot water outlet. What is the third tapping used for as it goes into the boiler water not into the domestic hot water coil?
Just leave it plugged.

Thanks I was scared I was missing something that went in there. On my way out to get a plug thanks again . I would call you by your first name if I knew it. as u have guessed mine is Ron