Coal Gun S- 130 Install

FirstcoalstokerRon wrote:Thanks Rob and Larry,
I think I got it, the cold water goes into the boiler DHW coil, the hot water from the coil goes into the electric hot water tank by way of the cold water inlet. I assume the temperature for the HWT is set lower than the water coming from the boiler so that the electric water heater would only come on when the temperature in the tank dropped below the set point. Is this right ?? Do I also need a tempering valve on the HWT's hot water outlet?? . Does a coil bypass, bypass the boiler coil ?? Will I need a HWT expansion tank?? Is there anything else I need ?? Again I say thanks to you all for all your help,

Boiler water will be entering your HWT at temperatures that are well above the temperature set point of your HWT, even if you have it set at 140 degrees. You will not need to lower your HWT's temperature set point. You will absolutely need a tempering valve on the HWT outlet. You will absolutely need a potable water approved expansion tank installed on your HWT. Make sure the HWT's relief valve is in proper order also.

If you are on municipal water, you may need an expansion tank on the domestic hot water. If you are on a well, your existing pressure tank will work just fine.

The coil bypass will allow you to "skip" the coil if you want to shut the boiler down in the summer. This is important because you do not want to use the boiler in the summer, you do not want to run cold water through the coil. A cold boiler in a humid basement can sweat, and cause corrosion.

lsayre wrote:

FirstcoalstokerRon wrote:Thanks Rob and Larry,
I think I got it, the cold water goes into the boiler DHW coil, the hot water from the coil goes into the electric hot water tank by way of the cold water inlet. I assume the temperature for the HWT is set lower than the water coming from the boiler so that the electric water heater would only come on when the temperature in the tank dropped below the set point. Is this right ?? Do I also need a tempering valve on the HWT's hot water outlet?? . Does a coil bypass, bypass the boiler coil ?? Will I need a HWT expansion tank?? Is there anything else I need ?? Again I say thanks to you all for all your help,

Boiler water will be entering your HWT at temperatures that are well above the temperature set point of your HWT, even if you have it set at 140 degrees. You will not need to lower your HWT's temperature set point. You will absolutely need a tempering valve on the HWT outlet. You will absolutely need a potable water approved expansion tank installed on your HWT. Make sure the HWT's relief valve is in proper order also.

Thanks again for all the help,
So much work so little time I will return to the boiler as soon as I get the rock garden in the front yard finished, but I will be thinking about the winter as I work in the yard. THANKS AGAIN!!!!

HI GUYS,
Guess who's back? As I said in the spring I was going to work on the outside of our house, built a front porch, a deck in the back yard for the outside spa, but , as my wife said she was getting cold I must return to the S-130 install. I see that many changes were made here in the forum so I hope I am posting this in the right place , if not please inform me where I should ask my questions. First question, I have read that the boiler needs to be in a boiler room separate from the living quarters, yet I have seen pictures of S-130's in a basement and not in a enclosed boiler room. Is a basement considered a safe place to have it installed or must it be in a separate room? I only have 12 inches between the top of the stove pipe to the floor joists and as I need to put a heat shield or two between them I was wondering if cement board is considered fireproof and can I use it as a heat shield? THANKS AGAIN !!

Open basement is fine. A piece of roofing steel on 1" spacers makes a cheap and effective heat shield.

[quote="Rob R."]Open basement is fine. A piece of roofing steel on 1" spacers makes a cheap and effective heat shield.[/quote
Thanks Rob ill get started in the morning!!

It is good you are swinging into action, won't be long and we will have frosty mornings.

Rob R. wrote:It is good you are swinging into action, won't be long and we will have frosty mornings.

Again I say thanks to all of you for all the help, but at my age I crawl not spring!! It seems the more I read the more confused I get. I bought a CO monitor and it said places not to install it, in a garage, in a kitchen, bathrooms and not within 10 feet from a shower, sauna, dishwashers, laundry rooms or utility rooms and within 20 feet of stoves , furnaces, water heaters and boilers. As I was planning on putting one in basement near the COAL GUN S-130 and one in the bathroom that is directly above the boiler and one close to and/or in each bedroom. Do I have to keep it 20 ft. away from the boiler in the basement and is it ok to install one in the bathroom above the boiler? Any advice??

I installed two heat shields one a flat peace of steel with one inch spacers below the floor joists and a MEECO pipe deflector that has one inch spacers above the 6 inch stove pipe going into the T where the baro is installed and then up to the thimble going into the chimney. Wiring is next !! Again I say thanks a lot !!

You should at minimum 1 on each level of the house. Keep it away from fuel burning appliances and windows. I have mine mounted at about 7', some people say to mount them at around 36" or "sleeping height" if only using 1 per floor I would place the detector in-between the bedroom locations.

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Mon. Oct. 16, 2017 6:01 pm

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You should at minimum 1 on each level of the house. Keep it away from fuel burning appliances and windows. I have mine mounted at about 7', some people say to mount them at around 36" or "sleeping height" if only using 1 per floor I would place the detector in-between the bedroom locations.
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My boiler is in the basement about 15 foot from the bottom of the stairs, at the top of the stairs there are 2 bedrooms, the 3rd bedroom is now a laundry room. I was going to install a CO detector at the top of the stairs between the 3 rooms and one in each bedroom. As the bathroom is directly above the boiler I feel I need to install one in the bathroom, but some say not to install CO detectors in a bathroom or laundry room, any ideas? I have added a 2nd and 3rd story to the ranch house and a 28 by 38 spa room onto the back. The chimney goes up the back wall of the house inside the spa room all 3 floors are open so I am going to put CO detectors in all levels, I would rather have to many as not enough. Now its time to give it power, Any help will be appreciated. AGAIN I say thanks to all of you, with out your help I would just be sitting here looking at it. I would have never got this far with out your help. So thanks again to all of you.

In my opinion you can never have too many CO detectors.

Any idea about one in the bath room ???

No idea as to whether the humid environment would be detrimental to it.

ok Larry thanks ill keep looking as I also look for info on the right way to wire the COAL GUN.

No, the steam and water vapor will affect the CO detector causing a false alarm from
what I have read about it happening in other instances.