Coal Gun S- 130 Install

Not in the bath room...
Water vapor will set it off...
But you will be awake...
Top of stairs from basement and at bottom of stairs in basement...
same way at all stairways...
Hallways outside of bedrooms...
Just outside of kitchen...
rooms with appliances with flame, gas dryers...

CapeCoaler wrote: ↑

Mon. Oct. 23, 2017 12:23 am

Not in the bath room...
Water vapor will set it off...
But you will be awake...
Top of stairs from basement and at bottom of stairs in basement...
same way at all stairways...
Hallways outside of bedrooms...
Just outside of kitchen...
rooms with appliances with flame, gas dryers...

Ok NO CO MONITOR IN THE BATHROOM!
As our bathroom is directory above the boiler and there are holes in the floor for the plumbing, how can I stop the CO from rising into the bathroom through the holes ?

The bathroom has two doors, one is in the hallway by the bedrooms the other is across from the first going out into the 28' x 38' spa room. I can put one in each bedroom and two in the hall one by the bedrooms at the top of the stairs and one by the bathroom door in the hall.

The outside walls of the spa room is all windows made from sliding glass doors. I have no idea where to put the detectors in or near the spa room, as anywhere I put them in the spa room they would be close to water vapor from the swim spa. As the 2nd floor is a master bed room and the 3rd room is a glass sitting room with an outside deck I would think I would need detectors in both rooms and I hope they will far enough away from the spa. The chimney went all the way up the back wall of the house before I added the spa room and the 2nd & 3rd floors . Now the chimney goes up to the top of the third level and through the roof inside the spa room. The spa room is over a crawl space and the other rooms are above the house.

The spa room and the 2nd and 3rd floor rooms are all open as is the stairs going up to them. There are no doors or walls in the spa room or the 2nd and 3rd floor rooms but the out side doors and walls except for a door in the bathroom and one in the kitchen going into the spa room.

Is there a way to seal off the back room so no CO can enter it from the main basement and/ or house ??

I would be lost with out all of your help !!! Again thanks!!

The concept is to detect the CO from where it came...
So no need to 'seal off' parts of the house...
Just have enough detectors near points of CO producing devices...
But away from points of false alarms like bathrooms and kitchens...
The CO will ride the air currents but will tend to pool at lower levels...
if the air currents are minimal...

The other issue is how tight the home is.
The amount of negative pressure created by the water heating appliance, kitchen stove etc.,
will affect the amount of combustion air available.
This is an issue wherein it could also bring in excess Carbon Monoxide if there is no
reversed dryer vent or pair of elbows with an insect/vermin screen to let in outside air
to the boiler for combustion.

I would rather deal with false alarms than no alarm when CO is present. Again I say thanks to you all !!

<r><QUOTE author="lsayre" post_id="638778" time="1508710882" user_id="122"><s>

lsayre wrote: ↑

Sun. Oct. 22, 2017 6:21 pm

</s>
In my opinion you can never have too many CO detectors.
<e>

</e></QUOTE>

Thanks Larry and I agree " NEVER TO MANY CO DETECTORS ". I have seven, one is AC powered with a battery back up and six are just battery powered. <br/>
<br/>
I have priced them from under $20.00 to over four or five times that much. Any idea why the difference in price, I hope it is the life span of the CO detector and the length of the warranty, not in the performance and /or ability to sound an alarm when CO is present.

A lot of the larger cost may be whether they are capable of internet and or smart phone connectivity to monitor and send alarms as well as being hard wired to the homes electrical supply

Again I say thanks and as I don't believe I have or need any of the things you mentioned ill go with the cheaper ones.

Again I say thanks to all of yo u that have helped me with my COAL GUN S-130 install,

Just about ready to light my first coal fire, got the coal in the ben, the elect. hooked up, but when I looked into sight tube the coal is up high, almost at the top of the port. Is it supposed to be that high
when starting a fire ?

I don't want to mess it up now by doing something wrong after all your help and advise and our work over the last year.

You are fine! There should be an uninterrupted cylinder of coal from the ash grate on up to the hopper, albeit that the tube leading to the hopper goes off at an angle just above the observation port.

You should fill the fire tube half way up with ash before building a fire.

coaledsweat wrote: ↑

Tue. Nov. 07, 2017 4:48 pm

You should fill the fire tube half way up with ash before building a fire.

This is optional. It is not mentioned at all to my knowledge in the Coal Gun manual. I have done it both ways. Ashes and no ashes, and it works fine either way. The last 2 times I fired up, I did not add ashes.

This is the first fire I have no ashes. I just need to know if the coal is to high to be safe to light?

FirstcoalstokerRon wrote: ↑

Tue. Nov. 07, 2017 4:57 pm

This is the first fire I have no ashes. I just need to know if the coal is to high to be safe to light?

There is no such thing as the coal column being too high. Coal goes all the way up to the hopper, unhindered. You are fine. Anthracite burns primarily with air from underneath, and all of the supply air is consumed by a narrow band of burning coal in the fire-tube, so the fire will not have oxygen with which to progress higher than the observation port, and once running longer term it may not even rise that high. It is the exact same principle as for hand fired stoves with hoppers.

Just never, never, never use bituminous. It will burn into the hopper for sure, fan or no fan.

Again I say thanks,

Now I am going out to find some fire starters.