Coal Gun S- 130 Install
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Just curious,
Did you leave the steel expansion tank alone or did you rip it out?
I hope you left it as all you needed was to hook it up to both boilers
steam chests by teeing them into the airtrol valve.
Did you leave the steel expansion tank alone or did you rip it out?
I hope you left it as all you needed was to hook it up to both boilers
steam chests by teeing them into the airtrol valve.
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- Joined: Wed. Dec. 07, 2016 3:57 pm
- Location: north west of Pitts Pa.
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AHS S-130
- Coal Size/Type: pea/anthracite
quote="lzaharis"]Just curious,
Did you leave the steel expansion tank alone or did you rip it out?
I hope you left it as all you needed was to hook it up to both boilers
steam chests by teeing them into the airtrol valve.[/quote]
Hi Larry,
I did not rip it out but I did disconnect the old autofill valve and the steel expansion tank and then bypassed them by installing a new air purger, autofill valve and a AMTROL EX-30 expansion tank.
I plumbed the electric boiler and the COAL GUN byway of a 1.25" copper supply line to the zone valves. I installed ball valves on the supply and return lines so I can use ether of the boilers and bypass the other.
I installed the air purger in the 1.25" copper supply line after the boilers but before the zone valves. I installed a 1/2" tee under the air purger and installed the auto fill valve and ran a 1/2" copper line 6' to the EX-30 bladder tank.
I have only used the electric boiler so far as the COAL GUN install is not done yet, but I did run the return water through the COAL GUN into the electric boiler to the zone valves and all seems to be working,
Next is the DHW install and the electric hook up so much to do and so little time
THANKS AGAIN FOR ALL OF YOUR HELP
IF I did things wrong please feel free to tell me
Did you leave the steel expansion tank alone or did you rip it out?
I hope you left it as all you needed was to hook it up to both boilers
steam chests by teeing them into the airtrol valve.[/quote]
Hi Larry,
I did not rip it out but I did disconnect the old autofill valve and the steel expansion tank and then bypassed them by installing a new air purger, autofill valve and a AMTROL EX-30 expansion tank.
I plumbed the electric boiler and the COAL GUN byway of a 1.25" copper supply line to the zone valves. I installed ball valves on the supply and return lines so I can use ether of the boilers and bypass the other.
I installed the air purger in the 1.25" copper supply line after the boilers but before the zone valves. I installed a 1/2" tee under the air purger and installed the auto fill valve and ran a 1/2" copper line 6' to the EX-30 bladder tank.
I have only used the electric boiler so far as the COAL GUN install is not done yet, but I did run the return water through the COAL GUN into the electric boiler to the zone valves and all seems to be working,
Next is the DHW install and the electric hook up so much to do and so little time
THANKS AGAIN FOR ALL OF YOUR HELP
IF I did things wrong please feel free to tell me
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- Joined: Wed. Dec. 07, 2016 3:57 pm
- Location: north west of Pitts Pa.
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AHS S-130
- Coal Size/Type: pea/anthracite
Thanks Rob,Rob R. wrote:15 amps is plenty for the boiler and circulators. I have my oil boiler, coal boiler, and all zone controls/pumps off the same breaker.
15 amps it is and I am planning to using 12 gage wire, is that ok ??
- Rob R.
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Yes, that will work fine. I ran 12 gauge from my panel to the main boiler switch and zone control, but for each separate run to the circulators, boiler aquastat, etc I used 14 gauge - just because it is easier to handle in small spaces.
Are you using armored cable for everything on/around the boiler?
Are you using armored cable for everything on/around the boiler?
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- Stoker Coal Boiler: AHS S-130
- Coal Size/Type: pea/anthracite
Rob R. wrote:Yes, that will work fine. I ran 12 gauge from my panel to the main boiler switch and zone control, but for each separate run to the circulators, boiler aquastat, etc I used 14 gauge - just because it is easier to handle in small spaces.
Are you using armored cable for everything on/around the boiler?
Thanks Rob,
I am planning on using armored cable and 12 gauge wire. I have a main switch about 20 feet away that will shut everything down including the electric boiler, coal gun, zone pumps and all the controls incase something goes wrong.
Once the electric is hooked up ill be researching what I need for the DHW.
I am old and slow but I am having fun if not for u guys i would have gave up a long time ago so THANKS AGAIN and HAPPY MOTHERS DAY to all of you and yours.
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- Location: north west of Pitts Pa.
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AHS S-130
- Coal Size/Type: pea/anthracite
GUESS WHOS BACK?
First I want to thank you all for all the previous help you have given me with my COAL GUN install. I have been working on the outside of my house and as I am almost done with the garden and the stone walls, I think Its time I get back to the installation of the DHW coil plumbing. I have seen three diagrams in the AHS installation and operator's manual and I am wondering if a better diagram with more info is available. One with parts and instructions. Is there a way to store the heated water or must it come straight out of the boiler?
I know I need a tempering valve is there other things I need ???
First I want to thank you all for all the previous help you have given me with my COAL GUN install. I have been working on the outside of my house and as I am almost done with the garden and the stone walls, I think Its time I get back to the installation of the DHW coil plumbing. I have seen three diagrams in the AHS installation and operator's manual and I am wondering if a better diagram with more info is available. One with parts and instructions. Is there a way to store the heated water or must it come straight out of the boiler?
I know I need a tempering valve is there other things I need ???
- lsayre
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You have several choices (at least). Among them:
1) You can use the coil to directly feed the home with DHW (via a tempering valve) as I do.
2) You can use the coil to feed a HWT that is heated by electricity, or any other typical HWT heat source. You will use far less electricity since you are feeding the HWT with water that is already hot.
3) You can skip all of the above, buy an indirect HWT, and run it as a zone. The aquastat tied to the indirect tank will make heat calls to your boiler as if it was a T-Stat.
1) You can use the coil to directly feed the home with DHW (via a tempering valve) as I do.
2) You can use the coil to feed a HWT that is heated by electricity, or any other typical HWT heat source. You will use far less electricity since you are feeding the HWT with water that is already hot.
3) You can skip all of the above, buy an indirect HWT, and run it as a zone. The aquastat tied to the indirect tank will make heat calls to your boiler as if it was a T-Stat.
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Thanks Larry, I am leaning towards the 2nd, just not sure how it is plumbed and wired. A diagram would be a lot of help any suggestions?lsayre wrote:You have several choices (at least). Among them:
1) You can use the coil to directly feed the home with DHW (via a tempering valve) as I do.
2) You can use the coil to feed a HWT that is heated by electricity, or any other typical HWT heat source. You will use far less electricity since you are feeding the HWT with water that is already hot.
3) You can skip all of the above, buy an indirect HWT, and run it as a zone. The aquastat tied to the indirect tank will make heat calls to your boiler as if it was a T-Stat.
- lsayre
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- Stoker Coal Boiler: AHS S130 Coal Gun
- Coal Size/Type: Lehigh Anthracite Pea
- Other Heating: Resistance Boiler (13.5 KW), ComfortMax 75
Plumb the boiler coils hot water out into the HWT's cold water inlet. Place a tempering valve on the HWT's hot water outlet. Add a coil bypass so you can revert to normal HWT operation whenever you need to or want to. Install a HWT expansion tank also.FirstcoalstokerRon wrote: Thanks Larry, I am leaning towards the 2nd, just not sure how it is plumbed and wired. A diagram would be a lot of help any suggestions?
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- Coal Size/Type: pea/anthracite
lsayre wrote:Plumb the boiler coils hot water out into the HWT's cold water inlet. Place a tempering valve on the HWT's hot water outlet. Add a coil bypass so you can revert to normal HWT operation whenever you need to or want to. Install a HWT expansion tank also.FirstcoalstokerRon wrote: Thanks Larry, I am leaning towards the 2nd, just not sure how it is plumbed and wired. A diagram would be a lot of help any suggestions?
I think I got it but ill look for a diagram to make sure I do it right, I thank u all again for your help.
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Hi Rob,Rob R. wrote:Ron, how many people live in the house?
There are two people in the house and two dogs, the dogs are young and the people are old and the house is big.
- Rob R.
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With only two people, there is no need for an indirect water heater. You can run the coil direct like Larry does, or pass it through the electric water heater. I hooked up my brother's boiler that way, with the cold water going through the coil, and then into an electric water heater. It works well, and if there is any variation in the temperature of the water coming out of the coil you don't notice (since it gets "averaged out" by the tank anyway).
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- Stoker Coal Boiler: AHS S-130
- Coal Size/Type: pea/anthracite
Thanks Rob and Larry,Rob R. wrote:With only two people, there is no need for an indirect water heater. You can run the coil direct like Larry does, or pass it through the electric water heater. I hooked up my brother's boiler that way, with the cold water going throug the coil, and then into an electric water heater. It works well, and if there is any variation in the temperature of the water coming out of the coil you don't notice (since it gets "averaged out" by the tank anyway).
I think I got it, the cold water goes into the boiler DHW coil, the hot water from the coil goes into the electric hot water tank by way of the cold water inlet. I assume the temperature for the HWT is set lower than the water coming from the boiler so that the electric water heater would only come on when the temperature in the tank dropped below the set point. Is this right ?? Do I also need a tempering valve on the HWT's hot water outlet?? . Does a coil bypass, bypass the boiler coil ?? Will I need a HWT expansion tank?? Is there anything else I need ?? Again I say thanks to you all for all your help,