Coal Gun S- 130 Install

FirstcoalstokerRon · Post by **FirstcoalstokerRon** » Wed. Dec. 28, 2016 11:00 pm

lsayre wrote:What is its year of manufacture? There may or may not be a need to fiddle with its electronics based on when it was made.

Thanks lsayre,
I found the serial number, I will have to get more info about manufacture date but I think is newer rather than older. just wanted to say thanks . I am still hoping to get an answer about the best place for the baro, close to the thimble verses the breach. Thanks again and Happy New Year

Yanche · Post by **Yanche** » Wed. Dec. 28, 2016 11:08 pm

The baro should be at the thimble. Use a 6" baro as described in the AA installation manual for windy sites. Search my old posts, I think I have photos of my installation.

FirstcoalstokerRon · Post by **FirstcoalstokerRon** » Thu. Dec. 29, 2016 1:57 pm

Rob, Yanchy, & McGiever thanks for the advice and the picture .
As I already have the baro, T, thimble, elbows and the stove pipe, all are 6 inch. I have an increaser from 5 inch breach to 6" stove pipe. So I was wondering I could go from 5" to 6"at the breach to the thimble with 6 " stove pipe into a 6" to 5" reducer and a short piece of 5" into the baro T. I hope that will work if not ill need to buy all 5" stove pipe?? I know need 3 screws at each joint should I also use high temperature silicone to seal the joints?? Thanks again and HAPPY NEW YEAR btw can I put two or more quotes in a single post ? THANKS

FirstcoalstokerRon · Post by **FirstcoalstokerRon** » Thu. Dec. 29, 2016 2:05 pm

Yanche wrote:The baro should be at the thimble. Use a 6" baro as described in the AA installation manual for windy sites. Search my old posts, I think I have photos of my installation.

Thanks Yanche but I could not find the pictures as I am as dumb about this forum as I am about the 1-30 install. I will keep looking and thanks again

titleist1 · Post by **titleist1** » Thu. Dec. 29, 2016 2:12 pm

The second to last post in this thread has a pic of the pipe inside a pipe being described...

5" up to 6" Flu Pipe

The baro goes into the opening you are looking through.

FirstcoalstokerRon · Post by **FirstcoalstokerRon** » Sat. Dec. 31, 2016 1:59 pm

FirstcoalstokerRon wrote:Rob, Yanchy, & McGiever thanks for the advice and the picture .
As I already have the baro, T, thimble, elbows and the stove pipe, all are 6 inch. I have an increaser from 5 inch breach to 6" stove pipe. So I was wondering I could go from 5" to 6"at the breach to the thimble with 6 " stove pipe into a 6" to 5" reducer and a short piece of 5" into the baro T. I hope that will work if not ill need to buy all 5" stove pipe?? I know need 3 screws at each joint should I also use high temperature silicone to seal the joints?? Thanks again and HAPPY NEW YEAR btw can I put two or more quotes in a single post ? THANKS

Just saying thanks and I hope you all have a very, very HAPPY NEW YEAR !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and again THANKS

McGiever · Post by **McGiever** » Sat. Dec. 31, 2016 6:06 pm

hey Ron,

You are pretty far West to be owning one of those S-130 Coal Guns.

When we going to see some pictures here?

FirstcoalstokerRon · Post by **FirstcoalstokerRon** » Sat. Dec. 31, 2016 7:13 pm

McGiever wrote:hey Ron,

You are pretty far West to be owning one of those S-130 Coal Guns.

When we going to see some pictures here?

maybe I should sell it and give up as no one seems to know where I can buy coal and if I ever learn how to install it I take pics so I can look at it when I get cold and again Happy New Year

McGiever · Post by **McGiever** » Sat. Dec. 31, 2016 7:35 pm

Happy New Year to you too.

FirstcoalstokerRon · Post by **FirstcoalstokerRon** » Sun. Jan. 01, 2017 6:36 pm

FirstcoalstokerRon wrote:
McGiever wrote:hey Ron,

You are pretty far West to be owning one of those S-130 Coal Guns.

When we going to see some pictures here?

working on the install and as I am 74 and stupid its going slow but when I get it going I send u so many pictures u will burn them with ur coal now u told me where I can get coal I will try hard to do it right as soon as I get a few more answers THANKS AND HAPPY NEW YEAR

FirstcoalstokerRon · Post by **FirstcoalstokerRon** » Thu. Jan. 05, 2017 1:32 am

[quote="FirstcoalstokerRon"]Rob & McGiever thanks for the advice and the picture . THANKS !!! I already have the baro, T, thimble, elbows and the stove pipe, all are 6 inch. I have an increaser from 5 inch breach to 6 inch stove pipe. So I was thinking I could go from 5 inch breach to a 6 inch elbow to a section of stove pipe to a another elbow to a 6 to 5 reducer and a short piece of 5 inch into the baro T 1/2 way. Would that be about the same as the picture? if not I have to buy all 5 inch . I know 3 screws need to go into each joint but do I need high temperature silicone to seal the joints?? As I said I have learned a lot just from reading in here but I do have a lot to learn. Without u guys and girls I would be so lost. Thanks again

lsayre · Post by **lsayre** » Thu. Jan. 05, 2017 5:14 am

I went from 5" to 6" immediately at the boiler 6 years ago, and I haven't had any issues.

FirstcoalstokerRon · Post by **FirstcoalstokerRon** » Thu. Jan. 05, 2017 2:54 pm

lsayre wrote:I went from 5" to 6" immediately at the boiler 6 years ago, and I haven't had any issues.

OK I will do it that way and ill let you know how it turns out thanks again.

Next question, I want to use my electric boiler as a back up can I run the water through the COAL GUN all the time or must I bypass it and use valves??

lzaharis · Post by **lzaharis** » Thu. Jan. 05, 2017 4:02 pm

You can plumb them in series, just be sure to have the anti-scald mixing valve installed on the hot water heater "out" line to mix the cold water with it at the desired temperature.

The only major issue would be when the hot water heater fails as you will not have a work around unless you install piping to bypass it BEFORE the mixing valve and before the first faucet to assure no one gets scalded.

lsayre · Post by **lsayre** » Thu. Jan. 05, 2017 4:05 pm

You can do it either way. My resistance boiler is valved off from the coal boiler, and I need to close/open valves when switching from one to the other (which I would only do if I have an out-fire in the AHS Coal Gun, and that almost never happens). Back when I had the oil boiler and the resistance boiler, they were in series and water passed through both of them all the time, and that worked fine also.