Coal Gun S- 130 Install

McGiever · Post by **McGiever** » Fri. Feb. 09, 2018 4:02 pm

Hmm, No response for me twice now.

I'll do like *Sting* and go lay beside my bowl now.

FirstcoalstokerRon · Post by **FirstcoalstokerRon** » Fri. Feb. 09, 2018 6:46 pm

McGiever wrote: ↑
Fri. Feb. 09, 2018 12:15 pm
It is a difficult task to communicate two ways in order to grasp everything required via internet to just "put a finger on" a final diagnosis.

For trouble-shooting purposes and to eliminate some simple things could you try this and then we will move on?

Sorry Larry, but as I posted before the FLO CHEKS are working fine. The ghost flow is starting at the supply line where the ball valve is installed between the two zones and after it heats the rooms it returns to where I installed the spring checks as I was told. The last place it gets hot is where the 2 returns join together just beroe gointo the boiler.

As for the water hammering I have no idea what is causing it and therefore I have no idea how to stop it!! My old laptop died so the diagrams I had died with it. I will try and see if I can explain it so you all will understand and I am sorry I type so bad and spell worse.

Post by **coaledsweat** » Fri. Feb. 09, 2018 7:37 pm

McGiever wrote: ↑
Fri. Feb. 09, 2018 4:02 pm
Hmm, No response for me twice now.

I'll do like *Sting* and go lay beside my bowl now.

And blood. It's not a good job without a little blood on it.

David... · Post by **David...** » Sat. Feb. 10, 2018 8:46 am

If the original circulator is still in the same place I don't see why the water wouldn't still flow through both zones. Any flow checks would just open up. Maybe I'm missing something?

David

hotblast1357 · Post by **hotblast1357** » Sat. Feb. 10, 2018 9:31 am

Almost like he’s trying to use flow checks as zone valves?

This sounds so complex but it must be very simple, a nice drawing of the piping on a napkin with a pencil or anything would clear everything up in a matter of seconds!

FirstcoalstokerRon · Post by **FirstcoalstokerRon** » Sat. Feb. 10, 2018 10:29 am

<t>David, 
 
I have posted this many times and I did posted a diagram in one of my earlier posts but it seems I am not explaining it right. I will try again to to explain it. I had a monoflo system with only one circulator and one thermostat. The 1.25 inch copper supply line split into two 1 inch loops 1/2 way across the basement. Both loops being fed by the one circulator, the loop to the right went to the living room and the dinning room, the loop to the left went to the bedrooms and the bath room. Both loops join back together just before they return to the bottom of the boiler. I cut them apart at the spit and added a ball valve between them. I then ran a 2nd 1.25 inch supply line between the top of the boiler and the split and then I added a 2nd circulator and a 2nd thermostat so I now have two zones not just one. I installed a TAKO FLO CHEK in each of the two supply lines. The pipes between the boiler and the TAKO FLO CHEKS are hot and the pipes after them are cold. The gravity feeding stopped in both zones. BUT when one of the two zones is calling for heat the non pumping zone gets hot from the BALL VALVE to where the two return lines join together before entering into the bottom of the boiler. I installed a check valve in both return lines just before they joined back together. When I shut one zone down it still got hot and stayed hot from the ball valve at the split to the return as long as one zone was pumping. The pipe got hot first at the ball valve and the last place it got hot was where the two returns joined together. Could the ball valve be leaking as I don't see any other place the hot water can cross over from one zone to the other. 
 
BANGING NOISE IN THE PIPES IN THE LIVING ROOM 
 
I have no idea what is causing it nor do have any idea what to do about it. I will appreciate any and all help, suggestions and/or advice I get from all of you. Feel free to private message me as maybe a lot of you are getting tired seeing this.

FirstcoalstokerRon · Post by **FirstcoalstokerRon** » Sat. Feb. 10, 2018 10:37 am

hotblast1357 wrote: ↑
Sat. Feb. 10, 2018 9:31 am
Almost like he’s trying to use flow checks as zone valves?

This sounds so complex but it must be very simple, a nice drawing of the piping on a napkin with a pencil or anything would clear everything up in a matter of seconds!

I did post a diagram before my laptop crashed and died. It is not in my new laptop but if you go back in my posts you can see it. I hope its good enough for you to understand, if not feel free to message me.

lzaharis · Post by **lzaharis** » Sat. Feb. 10, 2018 10:43 am

No worries Ron,

I am not bored with what you are describing and I am not trying to scare you. I am just concerned that you have water hammer and you may end up with a dry boiler if a pipe bursts and you do not have a conductive water contact low water off like the MocDonnell & Miller RB-122-E Guard Dog Low Water Cut Off.

hotblast1357 · Post by **hotblast1357** » Sat. Feb. 10, 2018 10:47 am

So what’s the reasoning for all the new piping and flow checks and ball valve?

Why didn’t u just put a zone valve in each loop?

hotblast1357 · Post by **hotblast1357** » Sat. Feb. 10, 2018 10:59 am

Here it is, where are the two circulators?

Post by **StokerDon** » Sat. Feb. 10, 2018 11:01 am

hotblast1357 wrote: ↑
Sat. Feb. 10, 2018 10:47 am
So what’s the reasoning for all the new piping and flow checks and ball valve?

Why didn’t u just put a zone valve in each loop?

There is more than one way of controlling zones. The two that I can think of off hand are zone valves and zone pumps with flow checks. Each have their advantages.

The flow checks keep the other zones from flowing hot water when a different zone calls for heat. Sounds like Ron is getting "water hammer" from the large column of water being stopped by the flow check when the pump stops.

Ron, open the flow checks and see if the hammering stops.

-Don

hotblast1357 · Post by **hotblast1357** » Sat. Feb. 10, 2018 11:05 am

But Ron is saying that his flow checks are not stopping water flow??

FirstcoalstokerRon · Post by **FirstcoalstokerRon** » Sat. Feb. 10, 2018 11:22 am

hotblast1357 wrote: ↑
Sat. Feb. 10, 2018 11:05 am
But Ron is saying that his flow checks are not stopping water flow??

The flow checks are working.

I will try opening them and I will tell you if it stops

lsayre · Post by **lsayre** » Sat. Feb. 10, 2018 11:26 am

What is the function of the ball valve? I would eliminate it and make each loop completely separate (sans for the common return).

I agree that a zone valve on each return leg, situated for each leg just before the common return, would solve any misdirected flow issues.

FirstcoalstokerRon · Post by **FirstcoalstokerRon** » Sat. Feb. 10, 2018 12:07 pm

lsayre wrote: ↑
Sat. Feb. 10, 2018 11:26 am
</s>
What is the function of the ball valve? I would eliminate it and make each loop completely separate (sans for the common return).
<e>

</e></QUOTE>
 

This house was heated by gas, it was a one pipe monoflo system about 55 years old. I installed a COAL GUN S - 130 with the help from all of you. The supply and returns lines were plumbed like this from the start I just cut them apart and made two zones out of one.

I added the ball valve so i would be able to go back to the monoflow system if some thing went wrong with ether of the two circulators. I am going to cut the ball valve out and cap both ends. I was just waiting for it to warm up a little as i must shut all the heat down and drain the system before I cut it out.

Went with circulators and thermostats instead of zone valves because I have them and will add the other 4zones after I get these first two working

Coal Gun S- 130 Install

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