Coalpail.com Forum

as I said before its in the basement but now what lol I have read so much but still not sure about installing it is there an installation manual that deals with installation?? I am very new to the Forum as well as burning coal so I hop I did this right will be happy for any help I get thanks btw if I did this wrong please help

If you have time visit thier page in the manufacturers corner and spend time reading it.

You can either ask the fellow that runs the AHS page in the manufacturers corner on the forum to mail you a complete manual or call their office on Monday and ask to have one mailed to you.

It is best to find the identification numbers/boiler number on the boilers steam jacket and have it in front of you when you talk to them so they know which model you have.

Their own forum/web page does not have a manual for the S130 model to down load so its best to call them on Monday for a physical copy as long as you have the information from the boilers identification plate.

Sadly they do not have a manual for the S130 to download on their web page.

thanks ed I hope that is ur name I do have the manual and as I said I have been reading it and only problem is some things I question are not easy for me to understand but thanks ill look forward to reading what all of u have to say about it I was thinking about keeping both boilers in line so I could use ether of them when needed I do have questions about zones and pumps but will get started before I bother people with my questions THANKS AGAIN Ron PS MERRY CHRISTMAS AND HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL

I would also suggest that you purchase a copy of "Pumping Away" and "Classic Hydronics" from Amazon/Barnes and Noble or http://www.dansbooks.com as these paper backs are written by Dan Holohan for the plumber and the layman alike and describe everything about hydronic heating.
Dan writes and makes what you are reading both fun and informative for the reader and easy to understand

thanks and I will get them soon and thanks again be safe be warm and be happy now if I can get a book telling me how to post on here ill be happy

Post pictures of your existing piping and we will tell you how to tie it in

will do as soon as I can rob but for now only one loop to 6 rooms 3 bed rooms a living room and a little dinning room and a bath no heat in the kitchen loop is 11/4 copper pipe in the basement one radiator in the basement base board in all other rooms want back room is apa room with no heat as of now with room and 1/2 upstairs I want to make bed rooms 1 zone living room ' dinning room. and bath room 2 nd zone and 28 by 38 spa room the third for now but I was thinking about running the electric boiler through the coal stoker so I could use ether one as needed use electric when I go way for a week or two sorry about the bad spelling and if I get things going ill send pics if I learn how lol as I said I am kinda stupid but ill learn slow but sure I HOPE and thanks btw any help on how to post and not post would sure help me a lot MERRY CHRISTMAS ALL AND GOOD NIGHT

Good idea keeping the electric boiler. You never know when you might need to leave for a few days, or be unable to tend to the coal boiler.

That 28x38 spa room sounds interesting. Are you going to heat it with fin-tube baseboard?

I hope you all had a very merry Christmas, my question is where to install a baro damper on my COAL GUN S 130, I read it should be installed close to the breach pointing away from the wall . I can't put it there as the coal bin is in the way. There is about 2 &1/2 foot of 6 inch stove pipe between the breach and the thimble. Not much clearance above where the 6 inch stove pipe goes into the thimble. I will need a heat shield between the thimble, stove pipe and the ceiling. I was thinking of installing the baro into a T and then a short length of stove pipe into the thimble. Would this be ok and if not any advice I can get would be appreciated. Still looking for pea coal close to Pitts Pa THANKS AGAIN and HAPPY NEW YEAR Ron & Sandy

Ron, there is a special way to hook up the baro on these units. Basically you mount the baro in a tee that is one size larger than the flue pipe, and you slide the pipe through a reducing collar so that about 1/2 of the pipe is visible when you open the baro and look in. This keeps fly ash from getting puffed out the baro when the fan starts, or if there is a puff-back from coal gasses.

I am sure there is a picture of that on here somewhere, but I have not found it yet. It is also shown in the Axeman Anderson manual.

Rob R. wrote:or if there is a puff-back from coal gasses

Speaking of puff-backs. Most of the older S-130's need a bit of re-wiring. You should wire the asher motor so that it only ashes when the fan is on. Ashing with the fan off leads to big puff backs... big enough to scare the heck of of you. My buddy Charlie has been using one for 8 or 9 years now. He had a lot of issues with severe puffbacks, but has made changes & now it's running like a healthy kitten.

The changes he made: 1: Rewire asher to not run if the fan is not running. 2: he no longer keeps his bin FULL. He adds coal as needed, but keeps it closer to the low end, rather than keeping it closer to the high end. 3: He changed the parameters in the electronics box. You should speak to the factory about it as Charlie can't remember the exact changes. He said he's thinking they changed the "Hysterisis" setting from 10 down to 1, and maybe another setting also. Those changes made it so it no longer puff's back. It took a LONG time for the factory to come up with answers. Most of the answers came from people like Charlie.

You get it set up & you're going to love it. It IS a nice boiler.

Rob R. wrote:Ron, there is a special way to hook up the baro on these units. Basically you mount the baro in a tee that is one size larger than the flue pipe, and you slide the pipe through a reducing collar so that about 1/2 of the pipe is visible when you open the baro and look in. This keeps fly ash from getting puffed out the baro when the fan starts, or if there is a puff-back from coal gasses.

I am sure there is a picture of that on here somewhere, but I have not found it yet. It is also shown in the Axeman Anderson manual.

Thanks Rob. Not sure what u mean but ill try hard to picture it but it might take me a while. Does the baro go into the pipe then the pipe goes through the T and into the thimble? Or does it go into the T? btw my 1-30 was just bought last month, does it still need the rewiring ?? By the way things are going I will have it up and burning by next winter as I am old and slow, lol , thanks again just me Ron

Rob & McGiever thanks for the advice and the picture . I thought I sent a post with my thanks and my idea but I can not find it so I will try again. THANKS !!! I already have the baro, T, thimble, elbows and the stove pipe, all are 6 inch. I have an increaser from 5 inch breach to 6 inch stove pipe. So I was thinking I could go from 5 inch breach to a 6 inch elbow to a section of stove pipe to a another elbow to a 6 to 5 reducer and a short piece of 5 inch into the baro T 1/2 way. Would that be about the same as the picture? If not ill try harder to understand. I know 3 screws need to go into each joint but do I need high temperature silicone to seal the joints?? As I said I have learned a lot just from reading in here but I do have a lot to learn. Not much help around here that I know of so with out u guys and girls I would b soooooooooooooooo lost Thanks again and happy new year. ill try and post this again and if I do it posts twice I am sorry

What is its year of manufacture? There may or may not be a need to fiddle with its electronics based on when it was made.