Coal Gun S- 130 Install

 
FirstcoalstokerRon
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Post by FirstcoalstokerRon » Wed. Sep. 05, 2018 8:33 am

<r><QUOTE author="lsayre" post_id="675747" time="1536137005" user_id="122"><s>
lsayre wrote:
Wed. Sep. 05, 2018 4:43 am
</s>
There is one other way that a liquid filled manometer can show positive pressure (chimney back draft), and also be wrong. The liquid (red oil) is slowly but constantly evaporating in these manometers, and if not periodically re-zeroed it can eventually show a false positive pressure. Re-zero your manometer while disconnected, then re-connect and see if it still shows positive pressure. If it does, then shut down for an inspection and cleaning.
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</e></QUOTE>

I shut it down yesterday and the fire went out and the water in the boiler is cold. it is so hard to work around it when its hot. I will check the oil in the manometer and then take the stove pipe apart and clean. I did check the draft at the baro with a match and the flame was sucked into the pipe. The baro is at the thimble and there is about 6' of 6" stove pipe between the breach and the thimble with one elbow. It seems as if there is a lot of fine coal ash inside.

I have to remove the coal hopper so I can remove the screws from the stove pipe and clean it. I am also going to replace the elbow with a tee so it will be easy to clean next time. I must be getting old as I can not remember why I used an elbow not a T the first time. THANKS AGAIN


 
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lsayre
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Post by lsayre » Wed. Sep. 05, 2018 8:50 am

I prefer to give it a day before I tear into anything. I want to be good and sure the fire is completely out.

 
lzaharis
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Post by lzaharis » Wed. Sep. 05, 2018 9:20 am

FirstcoalstokerRon wrote:
Wed. Sep. 05, 2018 8:33 am
<r><QUOTE author="lsayre" post_id="675747" time="1536137005" user_id="122"><s></e></QUOTE>

I shut it down yesterday and the fire went out and the water in the boiler is cold. it is so hard to work around it when its hot. I will check the oil in the manometer and then take the stove pipe apart and clean. I did check the draft at the baro with a match and the flame was sucked into the pipe. The baro is at the thimble and there is about 6' of 6" stove pipe between the breach and the thimble with one elbow. It seems as if there is a lot of fine coal ash inside.

I have to remove the coal hopper so I can remove the screws from the stove pipe and clean it. I am also going to replace the elbow with a tee so it will be easy to clean next time. I must be getting old as I can not remember why I used an elbow not a T the first time. THANKS AGAIN
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You need a good dust mask like the 3M #93 model dust mask or the 4 pack of the welding fume masks that have the exhalation valves which makes them better to wear as they will reduce the moisture from exhaling in to the mask and making them fail sooner.


(1) fine coal ash is referred to as "fly ash" and it gets everywhere and into everything.

(2) remove the automatic barometric damper and let it soak in some hot water and Dawn Dish Soap and use a small metal wire brush easier to remove and clean the fly ash as it will affect how well the automatic barometric damper will react to atmosperic changes and heat calls.

(a) be sure the weight for the barometric damper is in the right side slot and pushed fully to the left and locked in place after you clean it.

(3) the fly ash will migrate in the flue pipe along every foot of horizontal pipe, you can tap it on the ground lightly to get it clean or use a good steel chimney brush to clean it when you have it off the boiler and away from the thimble.

(4) be sure to use some "Never Sieze" paste on the screws and internal threads and the mating surfaces of the hopper and the tube that attach the hopper to the coal delivery tube on the S130.

(5) about your manometer remove the tubing and then recalibrate the manometer using the instructions that came with it before you add any dyed oil to the reservoir then reattach the tubing.

You learn with experience. Adding a Tee before the barometric damper and a second one before the thimble will collect much more fine fly ash and it is fine to do as long as the plug or cap is tight and will not fall out. Please be sure to use the aluminum joint tape to seal any joints that you suspect may be leaking flue gas.

 
FirstcoalstokerRon
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Post by FirstcoalstokerRon » Fri. Sep. 07, 2018 12:53 pm

<r><QUOTE author="lzaharis" post_id="675763" time="1536153641" user_id="725"><s>
lzaharis wrote:
Wed. Sep. 05, 2018 9:20 am
</s>

(1) fine coal ash is referred to as "fly ash" and it gets everywhere and into everything.<br/>

You got that right!

(2) remove the automatic barometric damper and let it soak in some hot water and Dawn Dish Soap and use a small metal wire brush easier to remove and clean the fly ash as it will affect how well the automatic barometric damper will react to atmosperic changes and heat calls. <br/>

I cleaned it.

3) the fly ash will migrate in the flue pipe along every foot of horizontal pipe, you can tap it on the ground lightly to get it clean or use a good steel chimney brush to clean it when you have it off the boiler and away from the thimble.<br/>
<br/>

(4) be sure to use some "Never Sieze" paste on the screws and internal threads and the mating surfaces of the hopper and the tube that attach the hopper to the coal delivery tube on the S130. <br/>

Good idea I never thought of it but I got now and will use it.

(5) about your manometer remove the tubing and then recalibrate the manometer using the instructions that came with it before you add any dyed oil to the reservoir then reattach the tubing. <br/>

You were right again I added oil and set it to zero.


You learn with experience. Adding a Tee before the barometric damper and a second one before the thimble will collect much more fine fly ash and it is fine to do as long as the plug or cap is tight and will not fall out. Please be sure to use the aluminum joint tape to seal any joints that you suspect may be leaking flue gas.
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</e></QUOTE></r>

The barometric damper is just before the thimble in a Tee . I replaced the 90* elbow with a Tee for easer clean out nd I got he aluminum joint tape and will use it.

I should have it back together by tonight. I am not sure if I should light the LEHIGH or go get a skid Blaschak as outfires was the start of my problems. THANKS AGAIN FOR ALL THE HELP AND ADVICE I COULD NOT DO THIS WITHOUT YOU GUYS!!

 
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lsayre
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Post by lsayre » Fri. Sep. 07, 2018 2:54 pm

To get you to winter (where the Lehigh will work) I would go the Blaschak route. You've suffered enough pain.

 
FirstcoalstokerRon
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Post by FirstcoalstokerRon » Wed. Sep. 12, 2018 2:55 pm

<r><QUOTE author="lsayre" post_id="675883" time="1536346496" user_id="122"><s>
lsayre wrote:
Fri. Sep. 07, 2018 2:54 pm
</s>
To get you to winter (where the Lehigh will work) I would go the Blaschak route. You've suffered enough pain.
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</e></QUOTE>

Thanks, Again you are right, I went and got a skid of Blaschak.

I took the COAL GUN apart and cleaned it and all of the stove pipe as well as the baro. I replaced the 90* elbow with a tee and a cap, I zeroed the manometer after adding more oil and reinstalled it into the new section of stove pipe. I cleaned the baro and reinstalled it. I used 3 some times 4 screws in each joint, then I taped all of the joints. Once I get some coal in the hopper I will lite the fire. I hope all is ok now.
THANKS AGAIN FOR THE HELP AND ADVICE

 
FirstcoalstokerRon
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Post by FirstcoalstokerRon » Sun. Oct. 14, 2018 2:31 pm

<r><QUOTE author="lsayre" post_id="675883" time="1536346496" user_id="122"><s>
lsayre wrote:
Fri. Sep. 07, 2018 2:54 pm
</s>
To get you to winter (where the Lehigh will work) I would go the Blaschak route. You've suffered enough pain.
<e>
</e></QUOTE>

I did get the Blaschak and I got it in the basement. but as I had so many other things to do I switched the DHW over to the elect hotwater tank. It seems that fall is here so I will light the fire in the COAL GUN and see if the Blaschak fixes the out fires. I will get back to you all later, I hope u all are well and doing great. Thanks again!!


 
FirstcoalstokerRon
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Post by FirstcoalstokerRon » Fri. Nov. 30, 2018 12:20 pm

<r><QUOTE author="lsayre" post_id="675883" time="1536346496" user_id="122"><s>
lsayre wrote:
Fri. Sep. 07, 2018 2:54 pm
</s>
To get you to winter (where the Lehigh will work) I would go the Blaschak route. You've suffered enough pain.
<e>
</e></QUOTE>

I did as you said, I got Blaschak and have not had an out fire since I relit it.

I am still looking for the cross over from one zone to the other. It seems I found one end of the loop but the other end must be in the craw space as I still have not found it. My question is can I cut the end I can see and then cap them?

Getting a lot of fine ash, can anyone recommend a good dust collector?

Hope you all are doing well and thanks again for all of your help and advice!!

 
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Post by lzaharis » Fri. Nov. 30, 2018 4:10 pm

If you cut that pipe you may end up with a very hot water burn. If you can just draw a detailed drawing of the piping in the crawlspace that will help you and us a lot.

If your getting a lot of fine dust you could use a shop vac with a filter bag over the paper cartridge and a dust deputy.
You can purchase a dust deputy from an ace hardware store, that is where I purchased mine.

 
FirstcoalstokerRon
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Post by FirstcoalstokerRon » Mon. Dec. 03, 2018 3:30 pm

<r><QUOTE author="lzaharis" post_id="686132" time="1543612257" user_id="725"><s>
lzaharis wrote:
Fri. Nov. 30, 2018 4:10 pm
</s>
If you cut that pipe you may end up with a very hot water burn. If you can just draw a detailed drawing of the piping in the crawlspace that will help you and us a lot.<br/>

The crawl space is nasty and full of spider webs and other things that have been stored there for over fifty years. I am old, to old to be crawling around in it. The end leaving zone one is in the crawl space and but the end entering into zone two is in the basement where I can get at it and if I cut it and cap it there it should stop the hot water from zone one crossing over into zone two. I believe the living room will still have enough heat with out the flow to one small section of baseboard. If I must I will run the cut pipe from zone one back into zone one before it enters the crawl space under the living room with out joining it back into zone two. I will let the boiler cool down and drain the water from the system before I cut and cap. I hope that stops the cross over !! If it does I can set up the other zones.

As for using a filter bag over the paper cartridge and a dust deputy for clean up I will do as you suggested.

Thanks again for your help and advice I would be so lost with out all of you !!

 
FirstcoalstokerRon
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Post by FirstcoalstokerRon » Mon. Dec. 03, 2018 10:10 pm

lsayre wrote:
Fri. Sep. 07, 2018 2:54 pm
To get you to winter (where the Lehigh will work) I would go the Blaschak route. You've suffered enough pain.
I am still looking for Blaschak bagged pea coal near Rochester PA. I will say thanks ahead of time for any help with location and pricing.

 
FirstcoalstokerRon
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Post by FirstcoalstokerRon » Tue. Dec. 11, 2018 3:03 pm

As I have said before I have found a dealer that carries bagged Blaschak pea coal near me but I would love to find a few others just in case of a problem, or even one closer or cheaper as we are on a fixed income. If any of you know of any please let me know. I have tried everything I can think of, phonebook, internet word of mouth I even called Blaschak. The only other dealers I and found near me do not stock nagged pea coal and want me to order in the spring, that wont help if I run out of coal in the winter, As for price it sees they all want about $100 more for a skid than where I have been getting it for over a year.

. I would buy 10 skids at a time if the price was right and the dealer would load them one at a time as I deed them asi can only hull one skid on my trailer and I must unload my hand and carry to the basement as my yard is all fenced in.

 
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Post by McGiever » Tue. Dec. 11, 2018 4:55 pm

FirstcoalstokerRon wrote:
Tue. Dec. 11, 2018 3:03 pm
As I have said before I have found a dealer that carries bagged Blaschak pea coal near me but I would love to find a few others just in case of a problem, or even one closer or cheaper as we are on a fixed income. If any of you know of any please let me know. I have tried everything I can think of, phonebook, internet word of mouth I even called Blaschak. The only other dealers I and found near me do not stock nagged pea coal and want me to order in the spring, that wont help if I run out of coal in the winter, As for price it sees they all want about $100 more for a skid than where I have been getting it for over a year.
. I would buy 10 skids at a time if the price was right and the dealer would load them one at a time as I deed them asi can only hull one skid on my trailer and I must unload my hand and carry to the basement as my yard is all fenced in.
Ron, If I needed to carry 10 skids of coal from outside of fenced yard down into a basement I would be looking real hard for a way to use gravity or else some mechanical advantage to get it there with a lot less effort.

As for coal costs...doing the above less effort moving of coal as pointed out, one could at the same time enabling the switching over from bagged coal to bulk coal...there is a substantial saving with bulk coal that would pay for the expense of installing some new easier handling method in very short order.

Just wildassguess...If savings were $500.00 per year with buying 5 tons of bulk coal, in 2 years you could appreciate $1000.00 savings towards a coal handling setup.

Hope this Helps you Ron :)

 
FirstcoalstokerRon
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Post by FirstcoalstokerRon » Wed. Dec. 12, 2018 11:10 pm

Thanks again Larry, as I have said many times I have no idea what I would do with out all of your help!!!

I have been thinking of some ideas that may make it easer to get coal into my basement.

1. I have conveyer belts that I want to use to move coal both bagged and /or balk through my back yard into the basement.

2. My trailer will only hold 1 long ton, one skid of bagged coal, I am thinking of getting a bigger dual axle trailer so I can haul 3 or 4 ton at a time.

3. I am going to use an auger type salt spreader to move balk coal from the trailer to the conveyer belt/belts. I will still have to unload the bagged coal and place on the conveyer belt.

Any and all suggestions and ideas will be appreciated.

 
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Post by McGiever » Wed. Dec. 12, 2018 11:49 pm

I just came across the phone number of a guy on-line who delivers coal with a truck and auger not far from your location...I don't know any more than that, but will get you his number.

My thinking is that you could always send him to your choice supplier of bulk pea coal, if it turns out he doesn't know of one doing pea himself.

Depending on your street layout and his rig will determine where he can reach to auger off.

Do you have a large bin to handle 4-5 ton load?

Is there a basement window to run auger through?

You know the payback on buying and owning a big enough coal hauling trailer is equal to many, many delivery fees.
And with deliveries you never have to buy trailer tags/plates, tires or ever have to cut the grass around it while it's parked there 364 days of the year.

Just some more to ponder there Ron.


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