FirstcoalstokerRon wrote: ↑Wed. Sep. 05, 2018 8:33 am
<r><QUOTE author="lsayre" post_id="675747" time="1536137005" user_id="122"><s></e></QUOTE>
I shut it down yesterday and the fire went out and the water in the boiler is cold. it is so hard to work around it when its hot. I will check the oil in the manometer and then take the stove pipe apart and clean. I did check the draft at the baro with a match and the flame was sucked into the pipe. The baro is at the thimble and there is about 6' of 6" stove pipe between the breach and the thimble with one elbow. It seems as if there is a lot of fine coal ash inside.
I have to remove the coal hopper so I can remove the screws from the stove pipe and clean it. I am also going to replace the elbow with a tee so it will be easy to clean next time. I must be getting old as I can not remember why I used an elbow not a T the first time. THANKS AGAIN
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You need a good dust mask like the 3M #93 model dust mask or the 4 pack of the welding fume masks that have the exhalation valves which makes them better to wear as they will reduce the moisture from exhaling in to the mask and making them fail sooner.
(1) fine coal ash is referred to as "fly ash" and it gets everywhere and into everything.
(2) remove the automatic barometric damper and let it soak in some hot water and Dawn Dish Soap and use a small metal wire brush easier to remove and clean the fly ash as it will affect how well the automatic barometric damper will react to atmosperic changes and heat calls.
(a) be sure the weight for the barometric damper is in the right side slot and pushed fully to the left and locked in place after you clean it.
(3) the fly ash will migrate in the flue pipe along every foot of horizontal pipe, you can tap it on the ground lightly to get it clean or use a good steel chimney brush to clean it when you have it off the boiler and away from the thimble.
(4) be sure to use some "Never Sieze" paste on the screws and internal threads and the mating surfaces of the hopper and the tube that attach the hopper to the coal delivery tube on the S130.
(5) about your manometer remove the tubing and then recalibrate the manometer using the instructions that came with it before you add any dyed oil to the reservoir then reattach the tubing.
You learn with experience. Adding a Tee before the barometric damper and a second one before the thimble will collect much more fine fly ash and it is fine to do as long as the plug or cap is tight and will not fall out. Please be sure to use the aluminum joint tape to seal any joints that you suspect may be leaking flue gas.