Coal Gun S- 130 Install

 
FirstcoalstokerRon
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Post by FirstcoalstokerRon » Sun. Nov. 19, 2017 12:30 pm

<r><QUOTE author="lsayre" post_id="643277" time="1511096353" user_id="122"><s>
lsayre wrote:
Sun. Nov. 19, 2017 7:59 am
</s>
Better have a mixing valve on the outlet of the HWT to protect you from the potential of scalding hot (boiler temperature) showers.
<e>
</e></QUOTE>

Installed a mixing valve in a way I can bypass ether the boiler or the electric tank if needed and I adjusted the water temperature last night and it seemed to stay a constant temperature through two showers and late night dish washing, then a shower today. My question is, how long will the will the electric tank maintain the hot temperature when not using hot water? Is there a way to run a gravity loop the will keep the water tank temperature the same as the boiler temperature even when not using hot water for an extended period of time?


 
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McGiever
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Post by McGiever » Wed. Nov. 22, 2017 8:21 am

Yes there is a way.
It involves the law of physics and there are NO shortcuts to success.

Thermoshypion water heater loops have been discussed in past threads here.

 
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hotblast1357
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Post by hotblast1357 » Wed. Nov. 22, 2017 8:35 am

Just for instance, I am feeding anywhere between 150-180 degree water into my electric water tank, we can go 12 hours in between usage and the tank elements do not turn on.

 
FirstcoalstokerRon
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Post by FirstcoalstokerRon » Wed. Nov. 22, 2017 11:33 am

<r><QUOTE author="hotblast1357" post_id="643739" time="1511357727" user_id="20482"><s>
hotblast1357 wrote:
Wed. Nov. 22, 2017 8:35 am
</s>
Just for instance, I am feeding anywhere between 150-180 degree water into my electric water tank, we can go 12 hours in between usage and the tank elements do not turn on.
<e>
</e></QUOTE>

It seems about the same here. At first I ran the boiler water into my 30 gal. electric tank for a few days with the power shut off and the tank did not seem to cool down between usage, even over night. I now have the boiler water running straight into the mixing valve. <br/>
<br/>
My circulators have not come on since I started the fire, it is 72 degrees in the house. Not sure of that's a good thing or a bad thing ?<br/>
I installed the potable water expansion tank about 10 foot before the mixing valve in the cold water line.

HAPPY THANKSGIVING TO ALL OF YOU AND YOURS !!!</r>

 
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Post by Rob R. » Wed. Nov. 22, 2017 11:57 am

Ron, I would install some check valves so you don't roast yourself on the warm days. You can use a stand-alone flow check, or if you are still running some 50 year old B&G circulators you could upgrade to a new circulator with a built in check valve.

Have a happy Thanksgiving.

 
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hotblast1357
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Post by hotblast1357 » Wed. Nov. 22, 2017 11:57 am

What do u mean you now have the boiler water running straight into the mixing valve? you Unhooked the electric tank?

 
FirstcoalstokerRon
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Post by FirstcoalstokerRon » Wed. Nov. 22, 2017 12:56 pm

<r><QUOTE author="Rob R." post_id="643752" time="1511369831" user_id="1231"><s>
Rob R. wrote:
Wed. Nov. 22, 2017 11:57 am
</s>
Ron, I would install some check valves so you don't roast yourself on the warm days. You can use a stand-alone flow check, or if you are still running some 50 year old B&G circulators you could upgrade to a new circulator with a built in check valve.<br/>
<br/>
Have a happy Thanksgiving.
<e>
</e></QUOTE>

Thanks Rob,<br/>
<br/>
As you know I have a monoflow system that uses a large main loop with tees and smaller pipes going to & from each fin-tube baseboard and it used to have a B&G circulator that I replaced with TACO 700's. I have no idea where to install the check valves, is there place where I can read about them?


 
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Post by Rob R. » Wed. Nov. 22, 2017 1:04 pm

The check valve is normally installed between the boiler and the radiation. I will send you some reading material.

 
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Post by hotblast1357 » Wed. Nov. 22, 2017 1:09 pm

You can install them after the circulators.

 
FirstcoalstokerRon
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Post by FirstcoalstokerRon » Wed. Nov. 22, 2017 1:17 pm

hotblast1357 wrote:
Wed. Nov. 22, 2017 11:57 am
What do u mean you now have the boiler water running straight into the mixing valve? you Unhooked the electric tank?
No Justin,
Everything is set up so I can bypass or run through any or all, the coal boiler, the electric boiler, the DHW coil and the electric hot water tank as needed, The only 2 things in the system that can not be bypassed are the expansion tank and the mixing valve.

 
FirstcoalstokerRon
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Post by FirstcoalstokerRon » Wed. Nov. 22, 2017 1:21 pm

Thanks again to all of you for all your help and HAPPY THANKSGIVING TO ALL OF YOU R on & Sandy

 
FirstcoalstokerRon
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Post by FirstcoalstokerRon » Wed. Nov. 22, 2017 2:14 pm

Rob R. wrote:
Wed. Nov. 22, 2017 1:04 pm
The check valve is normally installed between the boiler and the radiation. I will send you some reading material.
Thanks Rob , I received the info and I tried to send a private message saying thanks but it seems I did something wrong as I don't see where it says it was sent. I guess I must read about that also. Off to get a turkey. Happy thanksgiving !!!

 
FirstcoalstokerRon
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Post by FirstcoalstokerRon » Fri. Nov. 24, 2017 2:32 pm

hotblast1357 wrote:
Wed. Nov. 22, 2017 1:09 pm
You can install them after the circulators.
I hope u all had a Happy Thanksgiving .

I understand that I need Flo Checks to prevent gravity feeding of the zones. Do I need one after each circulator or can I install just one before the four zone circulators? Because of low head room in my basement I don't have room above the circulators and if I can not install one before the zone circulators may I install them about 10 ft. past the circulators in the horizontal runs ?

 
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Post by StokerDon » Fri. Nov. 24, 2017 7:41 pm

The idea of the flow check is to prevent heat from going to someplace you don't want it. The idea of zoning is to send heat to where you need it. With out a flow check on each zone, heat will ghost flow through adjacent zones sending heat where you don't need it.

So, yes, you should put one on each zone.

-Don

 
FirstcoalstokerRon
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Post by FirstcoalstokerRon » Sat. Nov. 25, 2017 2:10 pm

StokerDon wrote:
Fri. Nov. 24, 2017 7:41 pm
The idea of the flow check is to prevent heat from going to someplace you don't want it. The idea of zoning is to send heat to where you need it. With out a flow check on each zone, heat will ghost flow through adjacent zones sending heat where you don't need it.

So, yes, you should put one on each zone.

-Don
HEY Don thanks ,
I just wanted you to know I understand what the zone circulators do and what the flo checks are for.
What I need to know is,
1. Can the flo checks be installed in the supply line coming off the boiler before the zone circulators?? Would need only one not 4 or 5 .
2. Can I use swing check valves in place of the flo checks?? They are a lot cheaper!!
3. If not may I ask why not??

I hope you all had a Happy Thanksgiving and you are not getting tired of all my questions.

Our house is warm the DHW is very hot and Sandy is very very happy as am I. THANKS AGAIN Ron


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