Sorry, The only thing that is the same is that it is 3 grates. All of the other stoker parts and the boiler itself are bigger than a KAA-4. It's a very different animal.lzaharis wrote: His K-4 is only different in the fact that it is not a
dual fuel unit as far as I know and he has 35 gallons of water and
the AA model Pocono 3 grate wide stoker that I have I do believe.
McGiever wrote:Hello Leon,
You do realize this is Not the same as your AA size stoker boiler, but instead is an older A size stoker boiler little brother to a KA6...no nylon plastic componets were ever used in any A size stokers...day and nite different.
lzaharis wrote:I have a KAA-4-1 with the single squirrel cage blower purchased and brought home in October and I am very happy with it and I have no need for the secondary blower as my Intermatic 30 minute timer is set to run with 8 pins at Zero minutes and 9 pins at Fifteen minutes. I have 9 threads on the stokers pusher plate. The KAA-4-1 runs very well at these temperatures with no overshoots or high temperatures approaching a boiler blowoff.
My boiler temps are 120 low 150 high with a fifteen degree differential. I am burning rice coal in my boiler. I Am Very Happy with the controls and the boiler now that the Hydrostat controls have been replaced.
I will caution you to avoid digital controls for it as the factory supplied controls and I would not trust the chinese gauges supplied by them as they malfunctioned on me twice and I have replaced them with Honeywell mechanical controls specifically the Honeywell L8124L1011 horizontal triple aquastat and completely separate B+G Bulldog RB-122-E Low Water Cut Off wired as the primary control before the triple Aquastat to shut the boiler down in the event of a low water condition. The Second Hydrostat 3250 Plus turned off the LWCO function as I was testing the boiler on oil when I replaced the second unit and that killed the idea of using a third Hydrostat 3250 plus for me as well as an integral LWCO function in a triple aquastat.
I have a New Marsh instruments "MArshalltown Triple Gauge to watch over the temperatures and boiler pressure too.
I had the boiler rewired as Keystoker would not supply me with Honeywell replacement unit for the keystoker KAA-4-1 and I am glad I had it rewired as it is much safer to run now with the Honeywell controls "IN MY OPINION".
No, the purpose of the bladder tank is to hold pressure steady...ruptured bladder or a undersized tank will do what you describe.Qtown1835 wrote:
One other thing I noticed was the boiler pressure was around 9# when the water dropped to about 140*. Once the water was back to 165* is was reading the normal 12-13# . As the high temp creeps toward 175-180* pressure is about 18#. does that sound normal?
Hmm. The tank is a new 30#. I suppose a could use a 60# tank. Do you know of a way to troubleshoot to see if the tank size is too small?McGiever wrote:No, the purpose of the bladder tank is to hold pressure steady...ruptured bladder or a undersized tank will do what you describe.Qtown1835 wrote:
One other thing I noticed was the boiler pressure was around 9# when the water dropped to about 140*. Once the water was back to 165* is was reading the normal 12-13# . As the high temp creeps toward 175-180* pressure is about 18#. does that sound normal?
You can have more than one tank and add them up to satisfy the requirement. 
Hmm. I do have an old steel tank in the ceiling over top of the oil boiler. It is currently valved OFF. I suppose I could open that for additional "space".McGiever wrote:
Don't spin off tank w/o relieving the pressure first.
A service valve to isolate w/ a bleed off would make for a quick change out.
What if I were to close the hyvent off? Or would that be counter productive? I would still have the expansion ability, but would leave the air collection up to the steel tank.Rob R. wrote:It will work fine until it becomes water logged due to the air scoop scrubbing the air out of the system. Hard to say how long that will take though, go ahead and try it and see how it does.
The real fix will be an Extrol 90 tank. A floor mounted model would be my choice.
, I hate my baseboard heat but it works.
Agreed, your system needs more expansion volume. Try using your existing steel tank first. If that causes problems, or doesn't work, you will need something with more acceptance volume than the 30. The 30 and the 60 are listed as 2.5 gallons of acceptance volume. The next step up is the 90 at 11.3 gallons acceptance volume, that's a big jump. The 30V I believe is the floor mount model of the 60.lsayre wrote:The next step up from an Extrol #30 is the #90. The #60 is just a #30 for 2 story houses.
