KA4 Project (Pic Heavy)

 
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CoalisCoolxWarm
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Location: Western PA
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA-6
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: old Sears rebuilt, bituminous- offline as of winter 2014
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Buckwheat
Other Heating: Oil Boiler

Post by CoalisCoolxWarm » Thu. Dec. 29, 2016 8:23 pm

Heavy iron is artistic in appearance, IMHO.


 
Qtown1835
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Location: Quakertown, PA
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker '81 KA4 (online 1/16/17)
Coal Size/Type: WAS Lehigh Rice (TBD)
Other Heating: EFM SPK600

Post by Qtown1835 » Fri. Dec. 30, 2016 9:12 pm

I got the supply manifold together this afternoon. I swapped out the original 1.25" ball valve for a union valve due to clearance issues, worked perfectly. Now it's just a 3"nipple from the union got he last elbow into the old oil boiler.
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I need to order a few more odds and ends, then return a bunch more... Some more pics.
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I just have everything dry fit for now. I'm planning on shutting the oil down Saturday (Friday night) to install the new supply and return manifolds.

Was contemplating ordering another set of isolation flanges so I can do away with the plugs, that way attaching and new zone won't require draining down the boiler.

 
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CoalisCoolxWarm
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Posts: 2323
Joined: Wed. Jan. 19, 2011 11:41 am
Location: Western PA
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA-6
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: old Sears rebuilt, bituminous- offline as of winter 2014
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Buckwheat
Other Heating: Oil Boiler

Post by CoalisCoolxWarm » Fri. Dec. 30, 2016 10:00 pm

Qtown1835 wrote:I got the supply manifold together this afternoon. I swapped out the original 1.25" ball valve for a union valve due to clearance issues, worked perfectly. Now it's just a 3"nipple from the union got he last elbow into the old oil boiler.
20161230_151201.jpg
It's coming right along ;)

When plumbing circulators with very short stubs, be careful about cavitation and turbulence.

 
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StokerDon
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Stoker Coal Boiler: Gentleman Janitor GJ-5, Van Wert VA-600, Axeman Anderson130 X3.
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Harman SF3500 reduced down to 3 grates connected to its own plenum
Coal Size/Type: Rice, Chestnut and whatever will fit through the door on the Harman
Other Heating: Noth'in but COAL! Well, Maybe a little tiny bit of wood

Post by StokerDon » Sat. Dec. 31, 2016 7:34 pm

Qtown1835 wrote:I got the supply manifold together this afternoon. I swapped out the original 1.25" ball valve for a union valve due to clearance issues, worked perfectly. Now it's just a 3"nipple from the union got he last elbow into the old oil boiler.
That is one fancy valve! I didn't know they made valves that have a union AND a drain all in one.

Wait a second, I'm a little confused, Are you putting pumps on the supply side now?

-Don

 
Qtown1835
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Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker '81 KA4 (online 1/16/17)
Coal Size/Type: WAS Lehigh Rice (TBD)
Other Heating: EFM SPK600

Post by Qtown1835 » Sat. Dec. 31, 2016 8:17 pm

StokerDon wrote:
Qtown1835 wrote:I got the supply manifold together this afternoon. I swapped out the original 1.25" ball valve for a union valve due to clearance issues, worked perfectly. Now it's just a 3"nipple from the union got he last elbow into the old oil boiler.
That is one fancy valve! I didn't know they made valves that have a union AND a drain all in one.

Wait a second, I'm a little confused, Are you putting pumps on the supply side now?

-Don
No pumps will remain on the return side

 
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StokerDon
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Location: PA, Southern York County!
Stoker Coal Boiler: Gentleman Janitor GJ-5, Van Wert VA-600, Axeman Anderson130 X3.
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Harman SF3500 reduced down to 3 grates connected to its own plenum
Coal Size/Type: Rice, Chestnut and whatever will fit through the door on the Harman
Other Heating: Noth'in but COAL! Well, Maybe a little tiny bit of wood

Post by StokerDon » Sun. Jan. 01, 2017 9:34 am

Qtown1835 wrote:Was contemplating ordering another set of isolation flanges so I can do away with the plugs, that way attaching and new zone won't require draining down the boiler.
If these Tee's are for future expansion, I would put a short nipple and a ball valve with a plug in the end. This way the valve won't get full of dust and crap over time. Also, if you accidentally bump the valve, you won't get sprayed with hot water.

-Don

 
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CoalisCoolxWarm
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Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA-6
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: old Sears rebuilt, bituminous- offline as of winter 2014
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Buckwheat
Other Heating: Oil Boiler

Post by CoalisCoolxWarm » Sun. Jan. 01, 2017 9:37 am

StokerDon wrote:Also, if you accidentally bump the valve, you won't get sprayed with hot water.
Goes to show what you know, Don. It sprays off the ceiling and rains on you, if you want to be completely accurate. Ask me how I know :oops: :shock: :cheers:


 
Qtown1835
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Location: Quakertown, PA
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker '81 KA4 (online 1/16/17)
Coal Size/Type: WAS Lehigh Rice (TBD)
Other Heating: EFM SPK600

Post by Qtown1835 » Wed. Jan. 04, 2017 8:35 am

So when I got home yesterday my duct wrap showed up from Zoro and I had some time to mess around before heading to wresting practice. I picked up 1.5" foil faced duct wrap to reinsulate the boiler jacket. The 1.5" come with a R4.5 rating for whatever that's worth and used some 3M spray adhesive. Here are a few pics of the itchy fun. Took about 35min to do the 4 sides. I need to finish the top split panel, as I ran out of time before I had to leave. After I attached the insulation to the panels, I went back and cut out the required openings needed for the domestic coil and triple aquastat. All of the other locations that are not used will remain sealed.
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I also got the remainder of my parts ordered from supplyhouse. I was a little disappointed that I didnt get next day shipping like usual. All of the items were "fast track", but for some reason they are scheduled for delivery tomorrow?

 
waldo lemieux
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Post by waldo lemieux » Wed. Jan. 04, 2017 8:41 am

nicely done Q. If you havent already done the top I would apply that with the foil side toward the water jacket.

 
titleist1
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Post by titleist1 » Wed. Jan. 04, 2017 9:19 am

Looking good...Almost done now!
CoalisCoolxWarm wrote:Goes to show what you know, Don. It sprays off the ceiling and rains on you, if you want to be completely accurate. Ask me how I know
These experiences are why we all should have a video camera click on when we start our projects so we can share with everyone here for moral support (or as my Dad would say 'moron' support)! :D

 
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CoalisCoolxWarm
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Joined: Wed. Jan. 19, 2011 11:41 am
Location: Western PA
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA-6
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: old Sears rebuilt, bituminous- offline as of winter 2014
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Buckwheat
Other Heating: Oil Boiler

Post by CoalisCoolxWarm » Wed. Jan. 04, 2017 9:47 am

titleist1 wrote:These experiences are why we all should have a video camera click on when we start our projects so we can share with everyone here for moral support (or as my Dad would say 'moron' support)! :D
Yeah, that's for sure! I had been leaning across, for what I don't remember now, but it was a long reach and I was trying to squeeze in there and leaned against the handle :shock:

Qtown- I left the insulation off the top of my KA6, which provides enough heat loss to the basement to keep it a decent temp without running the radiators on that zone.

Not sure if that is the best strategy, though. Once we get a few more things worked out with our monitoring and data collection, I expect it will be better to insulate and only run the zone as needed.

I have some very large sheets of rigid insulated ductboard (5'x10' I think). Wonder if that would work? I didn't see where you ordered your material, but it looks quite well suited to the task :up:

 
Qtown1835
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Posts: 705
Joined: Sat. Nov. 08, 2014 11:47 am
Location: Quakertown, PA
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker '81 KA4 (online 1/16/17)
Coal Size/Type: WAS Lehigh Rice (TBD)
Other Heating: EFM SPK600

Post by Qtown1835 » Wed. Jan. 04, 2017 9:59 am

CoalisCoolxWarm wrote:
titleist1 wrote:These experiences are why we all should have a video camera click on when we start our projects so we can share with everyone here for moral support (or as my Dad would say 'moron' support)! :D
Yeah, that's for sure! I had been leaning across, for what I don't remember now, but it was a long reach and I was trying to squeeze in there and leaned against the handle :shock:

Qtown- I left the insulation off the top of my KA6, which provides enough heat loss to the basement to keep it a decent temp without running the radiators on that zone.

Not sure if that is the best strategy, though. Once we get a few more things worked out with our monitoring and data collection, I expect it will be better to insulate and only run the zone as needed.

I have some very large sheets of rigid insulated ductboard (5'x10' I think). Wonder if that would work? I didn't see where you ordered your material, but it looks quite well suited to the task :up:
I was originally planning on using duct board but the more I thought about it, I was not keen on having potential napalm strapped to my boiler :D . The polyisocyanurate is quite combustible and burns with nasty back smoke. Thats why I chose to go with the fiberglass. I picked up the duct wrap on Zoro $65. Its a JM product. Im planning on insulating the supply pipe once I have everything tuned up.

 
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CoalisCoolxWarm
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Posts: 2323
Joined: Wed. Jan. 19, 2011 11:41 am
Location: Western PA
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA-6
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: old Sears rebuilt, bituminous- offline as of winter 2014
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Buckwheat
Other Heating: Oil Boiler

Post by CoalisCoolxWarm » Wed. Jan. 04, 2017 10:17 am

Qtown1835 wrote:I was originally planning on using duct board but the more I thought about it, I was not keen on having potential napalm strapped to my boiler :D . The polyisocyanurate is quite combustible and burns with nasty back smoke. Thats why I chose to go with the fiberglass. I picked up the duct wrap on Zoro $65. Its a JM product. Im planning on insulating the supply pipe once I have everything tuned up.
Napalm toothy

Here is the ductboard, not foamboard. I was wrong about the size, it is 4ft x 10ft.
ductboard.png
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lzaharis
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Location: Ithaca, New York
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KAA-4-1 dual fuel boiler
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: former switzer CWW100-sold
Coal Size/Type: rice
Other Heating: kerosene for dual fuel Keystoker/unused

Post by lzaharis » Wed. Jan. 04, 2017 10:35 am

The 1,000 degree fiberglass insulation I purchased from Mcmaster Carr for my KAA-4-1 steam chest has certainly made my boiler more efficient and I am glad I spent the $27 and change for a sheet of it.

I no longer lose so much heat and it stays in the water. I have stable low temperature operation of the boiler with very fast response on heat calls.

I have the stoker feed backed out 14 threads now on my KAA-4-1 and I am burning less than 2 bags of rice coal per day. I will be burning more coal when and if it gets colder and I will not be wasting coal like I did last year with the defective controls I had.

 
Qtown1835
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Posts: 705
Joined: Sat. Nov. 08, 2014 11:47 am
Location: Quakertown, PA
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker '81 KA4 (online 1/16/17)
Coal Size/Type: WAS Lehigh Rice (TBD)
Other Heating: EFM SPK600

Post by Qtown1835 » Sun. Jan. 08, 2017 7:33 am

Finished the plumbing yesterday. Install went well and was complete in about 6hrs. I need to get everything wired up and complete the flue. Some pictures of yesterday's fun.

Return manifold
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This came in handy!
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Bypass loop
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Dry fitting the domestic HW
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Finished up
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Need to pick up some 12-3mc lite and box connectors to get the electrical finished. Thinking about relocating the circulator relays and cleaning up the install from what is existing. Tossing around the idea of a taco zone controller. Not sure I want to spend another 250 right now. See what happens.


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