KA4 Project (Pic Heavy)
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- Member
- Posts: 705
- Joined: Sat. Nov. 08, 2014 11:47 am
- Location: Quakertown, PA
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker '81 KA4 (online 1/16/17)
- Coal Size/Type: WAS Lehigh Rice (TBD)
- Other Heating: EFM SPK600
It's about 50' from the bin to the hopper. 90*at the bin 2 horizontal 45* to the barrel. Shop vac is a 6.5hp peak as I recall.
- hotblast1357
- Member
- Posts: 5657
- Joined: Mon. Mar. 10, 2014 10:06 pm
- Location: Peasleeville NY
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1984 Eshland S260 coal gun
- Coal Size/Type: Lehigh anthracite pea
- Other Heating: air source heat pump, oil furnace
Wow! My project is going to be 10’ straight! Lol I want to move pea size though, using 2”, think I’ll be alright?
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- Member
- Posts: 705
- Joined: Sat. Nov. 08, 2014 11:47 am
- Location: Quakertown, PA
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker '81 KA4 (online 1/16/17)
- Coal Size/Type: WAS Lehigh Rice (TBD)
- Other Heating: EFM SPK600
Idk honestly. Only 1 way to find out. I do think it will be a bit more challenging to move a larger aggregate like pea. Given the fact you are only moving it 10' would give you better odds I would think. The bends will be the biggest hurdle and getting the coal to self feed to the suction.
- hotblast1357
- Member
- Posts: 5657
- Joined: Mon. Mar. 10, 2014 10:06 pm
- Location: Peasleeville NY
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1984 Eshland S260 coal gun
- Coal Size/Type: Lehigh anthracite pea
- Other Heating: air source heat pump, oil furnace
There will be no bends in mine. Straight shot.
I thought about doing it right into the center of my 8 tin bin.
I thought about doing it right into the center of my 8 tin bin.
- CoalisCoolxWarm
- Member
- Posts: 2323
- Joined: Wed. Jan. 19, 2011 11:41 am
- Location: Western PA
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA-6
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: old Sears rebuilt, bituminous- offline as of winter 2014
- Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Buckwheat
- Other Heating: Oil Boiler
Qtown1835-
I know it's been a while, but I still think your thread has great value, so here's a bump....and a question
When you replaced the seals in your gearbox, how did you remove them? Did you remove the shafts, remove the set screws, or what?
I have new seals and preparing to replace the seals on the next warmup day.
Thanks.
I know it's been a while, but I still think your thread has great value, so here's a bump....and a question
When you replaced the seals in your gearbox, how did you remove them? Did you remove the shafts, remove the set screws, or what?
I have new seals and preparing to replace the seals on the next warmup day.
Thanks.
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- Member
- Posts: 705
- Joined: Sat. Nov. 08, 2014 11:47 am
- Location: Quakertown, PA
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker '81 KA4 (online 1/16/17)
- Coal Size/Type: WAS Lehigh Rice (TBD)
- Other Heating: EFM SPK600
All of the internals stay put. You just need a small screwdriver or pick to pry out the seal from the metal surrounding the rubber seal. I mine still leaks, not at the shaft seals but from the top of the gear box. If you are going to do new shaft seals, i would empty the entire gear box, clean it real good and seal the top with some RTV. I used the paper gasket and seems to be NFG.
- CoalisCoolxWarm
- Member
- Posts: 2323
- Joined: Wed. Jan. 19, 2011 11:41 am
- Location: Western PA
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA-6
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: old Sears rebuilt, bituminous- offline as of winter 2014
- Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Buckwheat
- Other Heating: Oil Boiler
So you're picking the seals from the outside? Destroy them and pull out what's left, or they were pretty loose? Not removing any shafts? But still need to remove the gear, right?Qtown1835 wrote: ↑Tue. Dec. 15, 2020 8:16 amAll of the internals stay put. You just need a small screwdriver or pick to pry out the seal from the metal surrounding the rubber seal. I mine still leaks, not at the shaft seals but from the top of the gear box. If you are going to do new shaft seals, i would empty the entire gear box, clean it real good and seal the top with some RTV. I used the paper gasket and seems to be NFG.
I'm accustomed to larger seals, using punches, pullers, etc. LOL.
As for the continued leak, Keystoker recommends 1/2-2/3 full of oil AND I recently saw the screw in the hole in the lid should be removed. Seems like there should be a breather in there because of dust and stuff, but no mention...
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- Member
- Posts: 705
- Joined: Sat. Nov. 08, 2014 11:47 am
- Location: Quakertown, PA
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker '81 KA4 (online 1/16/17)
- Coal Size/Type: WAS Lehigh Rice (TBD)
- Other Heating: EFM SPK600
Yes you can smash the seal out however you see fit. It will be a tight fit and you will probably need a decent sized socket to seat the seal into position. Sometimes a bit of a PITA to get started square, but overall a simple install.
There is a small vent on the lid, maybe a 1/16" hole.
There is a small vent on the lid, maybe a 1/16" hole.
- CoalisCoolxWarm
- Member
- Posts: 2323
- Joined: Wed. Jan. 19, 2011 11:41 am
- Location: Western PA
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA-6
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: old Sears rebuilt, bituminous- offline as of winter 2014
- Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Buckwheat
- Other Heating: Oil Boiler
Ok, thanks. It's been a while since I've had to destroy and pick & prod out a seal without removing the shaft or the opposite side components. That does save re-meshing the gears, though. LOLQtown1835 wrote: ↑Tue. Dec. 15, 2020 9:14 amYes you can smash the seal out however you see fit. It will be a tight fit and you will probably need a decent sized socket to seat the seal into position. Sometimes a bit of a PITA to get started square, but overall a simple install.
There is a small vent on the lid, maybe a 1/16" hole.