Converting to EFM From OWB
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So I'm a little behind the 8 ball on getting my EFM hooked up. I bought it refurbished last December and waited to install this year as I already had my wood in for the year and didn't want to miss out on this one and end up paying more for a different one. I removed my wood boiler at the beginning of the summer and bought a building to put the EFM in. After waiting to sell my OWB so I had the money to buy everything for the new install which wasn't easy lol but it finally sold just in time for me to get extremely busy at work (I work for a large dairy farm). I have been working at it as I can and am gaining on it. I'm trying to figure out how to upload pictures so everyone can see how it's coming
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This was my OWB
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Just after I set it together
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The box is where the pipes came up into the wood boiler. I built the box to protect the lines and I ran them through the wall of the building.
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Got the chimney installed a couple weeks ago
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This is everything I accomplished today. I'm hoping that I can work at it after work this week and finish it. I only have to hook up the wiring and the fresh water plumbing to fill it then it should be ready to go. I will admit I may be looking for a little help with the wiring for the timer and the hydrolevel. Thanks for checking this thread out and for the help I've already received and any help from you guys in the future
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- Rob R.
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A few thoughts for you.
The chimney would perform best if it went straight up through the roof, but it is too late for that now. An easy improvement would be to replace that 90 degree elbow on the flue outlet of the boiler with a tee and cap. Every once in a while you might get a load of coal that creates a lot of flyash, and the tee makes it easy to clean.
Turn that Taco pump 90 degrees so the motor is parallel with the floor, not pointing up.
Any chance you can mount that expansion tank down low and pipe it in? The way you have it will make it very hard to check the air pressure, and when it leaks it will leak all over the boiler. Same for the water feeder on the side - at least put a nipple between that and the boiler...better yet put a tee between the air scoop and expansion tank and mount it there.
Do you intend to run the circulator all the time?
The chimney would perform best if it went straight up through the roof, but it is too late for that now. An easy improvement would be to replace that 90 degree elbow on the flue outlet of the boiler with a tee and cap. Every once in a while you might get a load of coal that creates a lot of flyash, and the tee makes it easy to clean.
Turn that Taco pump 90 degrees so the motor is parallel with the floor, not pointing up.
Any chance you can mount that expansion tank down low and pipe it in? The way you have it will make it very hard to check the air pressure, and when it leaks it will leak all over the boiler. Same for the water feeder on the side - at least put a nipple between that and the boiler...better yet put a tee between the air scoop and expansion tank and mount it there.
Do you intend to run the circulator all the time?
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you might want to consider moving the water fill/pressure reducing valve between the air tank and the air purge. Too, I suspect youll lose an unnecessary amount of heat without some insulation covers on the boiler. looks good
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I can make the changes pretty easy still since it's not up and runnin yet. The fill valve is a fill and relief valve combo it should still work just fine if I move it right?
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The circulator is only going to run during heat calls
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Here are the changes you guys suggested. Gettin closer
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Ok thanks. I gotta try to get a remote mount wire for it
- coal stoker
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You can spend the money on the remote kit or you can just do what I did with the temperature sensor.
Since it is just an 2 wire RTD or a thermistor you can just splice into the cable and extend it to what ever custom length you desire by adding some #18/2 cable.
it will be effective if you splice it with wirenuts or if you want to be fancy solder it and use some heat shrink like I did.
Either way mine has been working perfectly for over a year now.
Love my EFM.
Good luck
CS
Since it is just an 2 wire RTD or a thermistor you can just splice into the cable and extend it to what ever custom length you desire by adding some #18/2 cable.
it will be effective if you splice it with wirenuts or if you want to be fancy solder it and use some heat shrink like I did.
Either way mine has been working perfectly for over a year now.
Love my EFM.
Good luck
CS