Coalpail.com Forum

Sorry for your misfortune, izzy,
I'll bet no other member here has ever seen such a chimney built as you described, there are proven methods of flashings that have not failed for centurys.

There are many seasoned masons in my area that build chimneys. I just have been afraid to call them for a bid because of the price but maybe I am just being to cheap. It is either pony up or be a slave to this power vent.....as I get older I am not going want to be outside kneeling on rock landscape removing guards and nuts to remove the motor/fan and then drag the air hose to blow out the housing, bring shop vac out to suck out the inside of my vent pipe where the 5" to 8" transition is..... PITA!

Ya... and it’s on the gable end, even if it did leak, it’s just going down the gable ends, this isn’t a chimney inside the house..

hotblast1357 wrote: ↑

Fri. Jan. 11, 2019 11:58 am

Ya... and it’s on the gable end, even if it did leak, it’s just going down the gable ends, this isn’t a chimney inside the house..

Might have an new adventure to post about in the off season!

hotblast1357 wrote: ↑

Fri. Jan. 11, 2019 11:58 am

Ya... and it’s on the gable end, even if it did leak, it’s just going down the gable ends, this isn’t a chimney inside the house..

IF it did leak someone needs a fast lesson in proper flashing techniques. It ain't Rocket Science, after all.

McGiever wrote: ↑

Fri. Jan. 11, 2019 5:55 pm

IF it did leak someone needs a fast lesson in proper flashing techniques. It ain't Rocket Science, after all.

Absolutely, especially being at the peak, with only 3 sides to flash.

Breaking through down all the way at the eaves would require a "cricket" and "step flashing" on the up hill side.

And I don’t think that’s even necessary with Shane’s because it is in the corner, there will be barely any run off meeting the chimney on the bottom room, if he did something, it would have to be like a half cricket, off the house wall.

Installing flashing in a metal roof corner transition mating 2 different roof pitches for a block chimney is an entirely different animal than a shingle roof.

lzaharis wrote: ↑

Sat. Jan. 12, 2019 12:02 am

Installing flashing in a metal roof corner transition mating 2 different roof pitches for a block chimney is an entirely different animal than a shingle roof.

Different doesn't mean that it can leak when done as required for said conditions...

Steel I can handle, it's the carpenter/masonry stuff that scares me. I am a metalworker/fabricator, I would build everything with steel or aluminum if I had my way.

Use 8” steel pipe, like well casing, cased inside of like 16” steel pipe, insulated in between.

Vermiculite beads come to mind here.

6 inch screwed together well casing with couplers is almost $40.00 a foot now and 12 inch would be at least 90 dollars a foot if you could not find a pipe supplier that would sell it to you.
You would need to have stays welded in place to hold the outer pipe in place and then insulate around it.
The other issue is simple corrosion which would eat the pipe even with a cap and extension.

Not trying to spend his valuable money; but finding someone that relines chimneys with an inflated packer would save him a lot of work and money as a smaller rectangular or square block chimney could be used and then the inflated packer would be placed in the chimney after the chimney is secured to the wall with the stand off weldments to create a round chimney bore rather than using refractory chimney tile that would be equal to the flue breech size to maintain the proper sized inside diameter flow path for the flue gasses through the chimney in to the basement and adding a concrete chimney cap and stainless steel extension would aid in maintaining the draft and preventing down drafts.




My thoughts anyway.

Putting up a chimney is not something new - just find an experienced mason and get their opinion on the best way to do it.

I would request vermiculate between the flue tile and block.