LL AA-220 Relocation

hotblast1357 · Post by **hotblast1357** » Sun. Sep. 11, 2016 6:41 am

swyman wrote:
hotblast1357 wrote: it is well worth the little cost in black iron or copper piping (whatever you choose) to remotely mount the manifolds on a nice clean white wall or something, makes it look really professional in my opinion, that way people THINK we know what we are doing lmao! I don't know the cost of a whole chimney, I would say it would depend if you are capable of doing the masonry work yourself for a tile lined block chimney, or simply installing a stainless steel one.[/color]
Just checked, chimney block is $7.50 each but I haven't found what the liner costs. What should you put between the liner and block to insulate? Sand? I will use black 1 1/2" black pipe to relocate my zone valves. One other fellow recommended on running circulators for each zone due to resistance in PEX. When I originally piped this system when I started with a corn boiler it was located in the attached garage. I used 1" copper pipe on that entire installation so in hooking up the coal system in the new addition I was going to run PEX from the zone valves to the turn where the copper goes to the furnace from the garage. So I would have about 20' of PEX to get to each tie in point of copper. Estimating for each total loop I would have 32' of run (one way) to furnace, 65' to garage modine, and 230' to barn.

i don't know what the best would be to put between the liner and block, I know there is nothing in my three chimneys... but im sure theres something you can put in it..
i would come off your boiler with black iron and install your expansion tank and air scoop the appropriate distance away, and then pipe over to a wall or something with your manifold, and then install the pumps on the outlets of the manifold for each zone, then just connect each zone to the corresponding outlet.
depending on what you need for pumps, here is a good price.

http://www.supplyhouse.com/Grundfos-59896341-UPS15-58FC-3-Speed-Circulator-Pump-1-25-HP-115-volt-4701000-p

hotblast1357 · Post by **hotblast1357** » Sun. Sep. 11, 2016 6:42 am

swyman wrote:Okay, found clay tile chimney liner, now what size? Found 12"x 12" square or 10"ID round? Ah, just seen the specs, the 12x12 has a ID of 10 1/8". Square or round, which is better?

what is the outlet on your boiler? 6" or 8"?

hotblast1357 · Post by **hotblast1357** » Sun. Sep. 11, 2016 6:45 am

swyman wrote:Okay, found clay tile chimney liner, now what size? Found 12"x 12" square or 10"ID round? Ah, just seen the specs, the 12x12 has a ID of 10 1/8". Square or round, which is better?

what came first, the chicken or the egg?

lsayre · Post by **lsayre** » Sun. Sep. 11, 2016 7:07 am

If your boilers flue opening is 8", then your chimney should be 8" round or 8.5" square.

Notice at this link that an 8" I.D. round liner has an actual cross sectional area of 50 square inches, and an 8.5" x 8.5" square liner has an effective cross sectional area of 49 square inches.

http://superiorclay.com/fireplace-firebox-design/clay-flue-liners/

Post by **Rob R.** » Sun. Sep. 11, 2016 8:31 am

8" round would be my choice. You can insulate between the block and liner with vermiculite.

lsayre · Post by **lsayre** » Sun. Sep. 11, 2016 9:00 am

Rob R. wrote:8" round would be my choice. You can insulate between the block and liner with vermiculite.

Round will have better flow characteristics than square or rectangular.

swyman · Post by **swyman** » Sun. Sep. 11, 2016 11:51 pm

hotblast1357 wrote:
what is the outlet on your boiler? 6" or 8"?

8" Does the fly ash stick to the sides on the vertical portion of the chimney? Just thinking ahead about cleaning.

hotblast1357 · Post by **hotblast1357** » Mon. Sep. 12, 2016 6:09 am

I have never seen it stick on my vertical flue's.

lzaharis · Post by **lzaharis** » Mon. Sep. 12, 2016 3:28 pm

The coal fly ash does not stick on my vertical pipe or the clay tile chimney
liner either it settles for the most part on the horizontal run through
the cast thimble to the ash pit and clean door on the block and tile lined chimney.

Do not hesitate to spend money on a stainless chimney extension for your block
chimney- my Rockford Chimney Supply Stainless Steel chimney extension came
with a spark arrestor and a chimney cap in one piece. it has a hinge on the
mounting base that is secured to the concrete cap with teck screws and it
can be folded over to clean the rectangular chimney I have if needed.

swyman · Post by **swyman** » Mon. Sep. 12, 2016 11:19 pm

lzaharis wrote:The coal fly ash does not stick on my vertical pipe or the clay tile chimney
liner either it settles for the most part on the horizontal run through
the cast thimble to the ash pit and clean door on the block and tile lined chimney.

Do not hesitate to spend money on a stainless chimney extension for your block
chimney- my Rockford Chimney Supply Stainless Steel chimney extension came
with a spark arrestor and a chimney cap in one piece. it has a hinge on the
mounting base that is secured to the concrete cap with teck screws and it
can be folded over to clean the rectangular chimney I have if needed.

Would my vent system be more stable with one of those caps that block the wind or will my chimney be high enough that it will draw really good (around 25' tall)? I looked at Rockfords site, they have some cool stuff!

SWPaDon · Post by **SWPaDon** » Tue. Sep. 13, 2016 12:08 am

My red brick chimney is around 25 ft. and it draws really well. Unless I get wind from due east, then I get a down draft that is cause by the two 65 ft. pine trees that are there, side by side. So the answer to your question is that it should, but it depends on what may be around you.

swyman · Post by **swyman** » Tue. Sep. 13, 2016 4:08 am

SWPaDon wrote:My red brick chimney is around 25 ft. and it draws really well. Unless I get wind from due east, then I get a down draft that is cause by the two 65 ft. pine trees that are there, side by side. So the answer to your question is that it should, but it depends on what may be around you.

The chimney would be on the West wall. There are some "growing" Maple trees on the West side about 15-20' high, 40' from house and a very old Maple on the SE corner within 20' of the house that is about 75' tall. What can you due when you get those down drafts? I learned how delicate my boiler is last year concerning draft so I am tip toeing through this whole chimney thing. I think it is the best way to go but I don't want to have any draft issues.

hotblast1357 · Post by **hotblast1357** » Tue. Sep. 13, 2016 4:50 am

A insulated warm tall chimney The correct height above surrounding roofs shouldn't have any problems, you just have to do it right lol

blrman07 · Post by **blrman07** » Tue. Sep. 13, 2016 6:24 am

A masonry chimney will be perfect for your installation. No more running a vent fan, no more vent fan maintenance etc. If you got the money for a chimney you will never look back.

SWPaDon · Post by **SWPaDon** » Tue. Sep. 13, 2016 9:24 am

A cap on my chimney solved the down draft issue completely.