LL AA-220 Relocation

 
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McGiever
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Post by McGiever » Sat. Sep. 10, 2016 10:02 am

As for OP running that 220' x2 garage loop constant I think he has no buried t'stat provisions, ie conduit.
Short of a wireless solution he is SOL (shti out of luck)


 
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Post by Olllotj » Sat. Sep. 10, 2016 10:34 am

Just trench out a line and be done. I am sure there is something else you may want to bring out there at the same time. Coax, eithernet etc?

 
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Post by Freddy » Sat. Sep. 10, 2016 12:52 pm

Rob R. wrote:Freddy, this is a UL approved setup made by Leisure Line.
Oops.... I saw the title "LL AA 220" & thought it was an Axeman Anderson. NOW I see it's a Leisure Line remake of the 220.... very cool! So, please ignore my past comments....unless of course you have a stock AA220!

 
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Post by swyman » Sun. Sep. 11, 2016 12:03 am

hotblast1357 wrote:
If a block chimney is out of the price range, I would say at least price a stainless insulated chimney also before putting the power vent back in.
hotblast, love your setup in the previous post. I love the idea of having the manifold setup away from the boiler, never thought of that but I think that is the way I'll do it! I was worried about how the chimney would look up against the addition but if I moved it to the opposite side from where I was going to originally install the boiler, It would be just offset on the gable end side of the 2nd story and look like is was meant to be there. For some reason I was stuck on having the boiler to the other side where a chimney would be out in the open. I have a whole new outlook now! Chimney couldn't cost that much could it?

 
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swyman
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Post by swyman » Sun. Sep. 11, 2016 12:12 am

blrman07 wrote:Swyman is intimately familiar with a direct vent especially HIS direct vent :shock: considering all the problems he had with the first year of operation. His vent works exactly to specificiations set up by LL and verified by LL. :D
Haha, you are correct my friend! I was so focused on getting the fire to burn like a raging inferno (coming off a OWB) instead of a nice stead/stable fire it just messed the whole system up. It was pure accident that I found where to set it because I left it alone for 2 days out of frustration and it just started working......if that makes sense? Now I am taking all that free advice I received last year and putting it in the house! I do however need to check with my insurance company to make sure there is no stipulations but I should be okay? Never checked before because my boiler was outside, then last winter with the addition of burning coal it was located in a detached barn so there was still no fire hazard to the house.

 
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swyman
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Post by swyman » Sun. Sep. 11, 2016 12:28 am

Rob R. wrote: You would have to run a wire. Running the circulator all the time is the simplistic approach, but also consumes the most kwh and coal. Depending on how well insulated your underground lines are, you will have to make the call on what you want. Due to the piping resistance of the pex loops, I would run each zone with its own circulator rather than a zone valve.
What I like about having that barn on it's own loop is that it is not a necessity, but with the boiler located in the barn I don't have really any options. I will be able to regulate the heat out there with the boiler in the basement and if it consumes to much, I can shut it down. It's nice to have it warm enough to melt the snow off my vehicle and Bobcat...especially the Bobcat because it just turns into a big ice block and when it really gets cold the cylinders actuate very slow which I feel is hard on the machine. I am hoping to keep the barn at around 40* and that it won't be too much of a burden to do so but unregulated the boiler was maintaining mid 50's in there which is really a huge waste.

 
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swyman
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Post by swyman » Sun. Sep. 11, 2016 12:31 am

McGiever wrote:As for OP running that 220' x2 garage loop constant I think he has no buried t'stat provisions, ie conduit.
Short of a wireless solution he is SOL (shti out of luck)
You are correct! Still won't hesitate to shut it down if need be.


 
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swyman
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Post by swyman » Sun. Sep. 11, 2016 12:32 am

Olllotj wrote:Just trench out a line and be done. I am sure there is something else you may want to bring out there at the same time. Coax, eithernet etc?
I am done doing anymore digging and trenching.....I hope!

 
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swyman
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Post by swyman » Sun. Sep. 11, 2016 12:37 am

Freddy wrote:unless of course you have a stock AA220!
Nope, purchased a brand new LL model last season and there has been a learning curve to say the least! Getting much easier as I gain experience and without this forum I probably would have given up within the first month last year. Really looking forward to burning this year, especially relocated!

 
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Post by hotblast1357 » Sun. Sep. 11, 2016 6:01 am

McGiever wrote:As for OP running that 220' x2 garage loop constant I think he has no buried t'stat provisions, ie conduit.
Short of a wireless solution he is SOL (shti out of luck)
couldnt he install the circulator for this loop out in the garage? that way he can control it out there with a t'stat and relay along with the modine?
Last edited by hotblast1357 on Sun. Sep. 11, 2016 6:06 am, edited 1 time in total.

 
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Post by hotblast1357 » Sun. Sep. 11, 2016 6:05 am

swyman wrote:
hotblast1357 wrote:
If a block chimney is out of the price range, I would say at least price a stainless insulated chimney also before putting the power vent back in.
hotblast, love your setup in the previous post. I love the idea of having the manifold setup away from the boiler, never thought of that but I think that is the way I'll do it! I was worried about how the chimney would look up against the addition but if I moved it to the opposite side from where I was going to originally install the boiler, It would be just offset on the gable end side of the 2nd story and look like is was meant to be there. For some reason I was stuck on having the boiler to the other side where a chimney would be out in the open. I have a whole new outlook now! Chimney couldn't cost that much could it?

it is well worth the little cost in black iron or copper piping (whatever you choose) to remotely mount the manifolds on a nice clean white wall or something, makes it look really professional in my opinion, that way people THINK we know what we are doing lmao! I don't know the cost of a whole chimney, I would say it would depend if you are capable of doing the masonry work yourself for a tile lined block chimney, or simply installing a stainless steel one.

 
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swyman
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Post by swyman » Sun. Sep. 11, 2016 6:07 am

hotblast1357 wrote:
couldnt he install the circulator for this loop out in the garage? that way he can control it out there with a t'stat and relay along with the modine?
Once again this forum does it again! I could see no possible problem in doing this??? Thanks hotblast, I could leave the circulator that I have out there.

 
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Post by hotblast1357 » Sun. Sep. 11, 2016 6:11 am

swyman wrote:
hotblast1357 wrote:
couldnt he install the circulator for this loop out in the garage? that way he can control it out there with a t'stat and relay along with the modine?
Once again this forum does it again! I could see no possible problem in doing this??? Thanks hotblast, I could leave the circulator that I have out there.
let the pumping experts comment on this thought first! I have never read any of these books... I don't know if it will cause any issues in ghost flow when coming on compared to the other zones, depending on how you plumb all this.. I do think that if you go with the manifolds like I displayed, and you mount the pumps on the supply side of each loop, I don't see how it would change anything if you moved the circulator from the supply side manifold further down the piping to into the barn... but I have been wrong before!

 
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swyman
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Post by swyman » Sun. Sep. 11, 2016 6:21 am

hotblast1357 wrote: it is well worth the little cost in black iron or copper piping (whatever you choose) to remotely mount the manifolds on a nice clean white wall or something, makes it look really professional in my opinion, that way people THINK we know what we are doing lmao! I don't know the cost of a whole chimney, I would say it would depend if you are capable of doing the masonry work yourself for a tile lined block chimney, or simply installing a stainless steel one.[/color]
Just checked, chimney block is $7.50 each but I haven't found what the liner costs. What should you put between the liner and block to insulate? Sand? I will use black 1 1/2" black pipe to relocate my zone valves. One other fellow recommended on running circulators for each zone due to resistance in PEX. When I originally piped this system when I started with a corn boiler it was located in the attached garage. I used 1" copper pipe on that entire installation so in hooking up the coal system in the new addition I was going to run PEX from the zone valves to the turn where the copper goes to the furnace from the garage. So I would have about 20' of PEX to get to each tie in point of copper. Estimating for each total loop I would have 32' of run (one way) to furnace, 65' to garage modine, and 230' to barn.

 
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swyman
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Post by swyman » Sun. Sep. 11, 2016 6:39 am

Okay, found clay tile chimney liner, now what size? Found 12"x 12" square or 10"ID round? Ah, just seen the specs, the 12x12 has a ID of 10 1/8". Square or round, which is better? In doing more research the sizing is all over the board. Any chimney experts on here? Dave or Matt, what do you recommend?
Last edited by swyman on Sun. Sep. 11, 2016 6:47 am, edited 2 times in total.


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