LL AA-220 Relocation

 
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swyman
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Post by swyman » Sun. Jul. 22, 2018 6:16 pm

Not sure if I had a typo or not....my bin is going to be 7'x8'x6'. Should hold close to a years worth!


 
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swyman
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Post by swyman » Sun. Jul. 22, 2018 6:18 pm

hotblast1357 wrote:
Sun. Jul. 22, 2018 12:09 pm
Why not make it so that the skid steer can lower the tote down into the basement, and be able to move the tire with a pallet jack, and use the vac system to transfer from tote to boiler hopper.
That was my original plan but I have a 36" door and a 39" tote. My builder could not get the bilco wide enough to get a larger door. I would have been totally set!

 
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Post by McGiever » Mon. Jul. 23, 2018 12:22 am

swyman wrote:
Sun. Jul. 22, 2018 6:18 pm
That was my original plan but I have a 36" door and a 39" tote. My builder could not get the bilco wide enough to get a larger door. I would have been totally set!
Really?, any 2 door Bilco is better than 36"...

 
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swyman
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Post by swyman » Mon. Jul. 23, 2018 2:48 am

McGiever wrote:
Mon. Jul. 23, 2018 12:22 am
Really?, any 2 door Bilco is better than 36"...
You are correct, the Bilco is wider than 36" but it sits on top and is flush with the 8" wide block so that does not leave room for a door wider than 36" which is the problem.

 
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StokerDon
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Post by StokerDon » Mon. Jul. 23, 2018 6:31 pm

swyman wrote:
Sun. Jul. 22, 2018 6:16 pm
Not sure if I had a typo or not....my bin is going to be 7'x8'x6'. Should hold close to a years worth!
Oh, OK, that sounds good!

Disregard my comment about using 1/2" plywood then. I would go with 3/4" treated, at least on the bottom section. The further you go up in the coal bin, the less stress there is.

If you minimize the lumber inside the bin, that size will hold over 9 ton of Rice.

-Don

 
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swyman
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Post by swyman » Tue. Jul. 24, 2018 2:48 am

StokerDon wrote:
Mon. Jul. 23, 2018 6:31 pm
Oh, OK, that sounds good!

Disregard my comment about using 1/2" plywood then. I would go with 3/4" treated, at least on the bottom section. The further you go up in the coal bin, the less stress there is.

If you minimize the lumber inside the bin, that size will hold over 9 ton of Rice.

-Don
Don, is there much difference in volume between rice and buck? I am going all in on buck this year.

 
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Coal Size/Type: Rice, Chestnut and whatever will fit through the door on the Harman
Other Heating: Noth'in but COAL! Well, Maybe a little tiny bit of wood

Post by StokerDon » Tue. Jul. 24, 2018 8:57 pm

I've never had Buck but the volume it takes up would only be slightly different than Rice. My coal supplier says the Blaschack Rice is about 35 sq ft per ton.

-Don


 
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Post by swyman » Thu. Aug. 09, 2018 12:58 pm

I was doing some inspection and noticed I have a hairline crack in one of my stoker beds. It is not split but have to ask...be concerned or run it and keep an eye on it?

 
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Post by titleist1 » Thu. Aug. 09, 2018 3:58 pm

I would get a spare to have ready and run the one with a crack in it until I had to replace it.

 
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Post by McGiever » Thu. Aug. 09, 2018 4:26 pm

Got a picture? It's hard to judge "sight unseen".

 
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swyman
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Post by swyman » Fri. Aug. 10, 2018 7:13 am

McGiever wrote:
Thu. Aug. 09, 2018 4:26 pm
Got a picture? It's hard to judge "sight unseen".
I'll snap one when I get home

 
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Post by swyman » Fri. Sep. 28, 2018 11:54 am

Still need to snap that pic.... I had a thought and don't know why I didn't think of it before regarding a boiler bypass valve. In this relocation process and scrambling to get burning last year, I just skipped this pretty important step due to the time involved on adding this feature. Due to my negligence I still experienced the same close to boiler shock symptoms but was much better with the boiler being in the house with the radiant heat. With a delta T across my duct coil is averaging 40* it just now occurred to me I put a bypass in that loop. Could I crack the valve between the supply and return to get the same affect as a boiler bypass? And would I also need to throttle the valves or one valve in the line/lines to force through the bypass? I could use a IR Gun on the pipes and adjust to bring the delta t closer together?

Also, my boiler room is directly above my living room and the boiler room stays a toasty 85* all winter. I was thinking of putting in a register or grate behind the couch for all that nice hot air to rise up into that room or do you think I get enough heat through the floor? This room is 420sqft with vaulted 10' ceilings.....would like to of had it a little warmer last winter..... Just don't want to cut a 12"x12" hole in the floor/carpet and regret it. Hopefully next weekend I will get the coal bin walls up and get that coal in the basement. Will take pics, can't wait to light a fire!

 
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Post by hotblast1357 » Fri. Sep. 28, 2018 1:45 pm

Insulate the boiler and piping better...

 
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swyman
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Post by swyman » Fri. Sep. 28, 2018 2:55 pm

hotblast1357 wrote:
Fri. Sep. 28, 2018 1:45 pm
Insulate the boiler and piping better...
You know all about my temperature differential on the furnace coil loop, do you think I could throttle that with that bypass valve to lessen my delta t?

 
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Stoker Coal Boiler: Gentleman Janitor GJ-5, Van Wert VA-600, Axeman Anderson130 X3.
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Harman SF3500 reduced down to 3 grates connected to its own plenum
Coal Size/Type: Rice, Chestnut and whatever will fit through the door on the Harman
Other Heating: Noth'in but COAL! Well, Maybe a little tiny bit of wood

Post by StokerDon » Fri. Sep. 28, 2018 5:10 pm

swyman wrote:
Fri. Sep. 28, 2018 11:54 am
Still need to snap that pic.... I had a thought and don't know why I didn't think of it before regarding a boiler bypass valve. In this relocation process and scrambling to get burning last year, I just skipped this pretty important step due to the time involved on adding this feature. Due to my negligence I still experienced the same close to boiler shock symptoms but was much better with the boiler being in the house with the radiant heat. With a delta T across my duct coil is averaging 40* it just now occurred to me I put a bypass in that loop. Could I crack the valve between the supply and return to get the same affect as a boiler bypass? And would I also need to throttle the valves or one valve in the line/lines to force through the bypass? I could use a IR Gun on the pipes and adjust to bring the delta t closer together?
If you delta is 40 degrees, a bypass might help but that's a lot of temperature drop. Sounds more like your burner isn't able to keep up. That's if the 40 degree drop is constant over a long run. Limiting heat loss will help a lot too.

Is this heat exchanger in the house, or an outbuilding?

-Don


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