LL AA-220 Relocation
- hotblast1357
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I’ve always put mine on the concrete, I’ve never had coal that wet that it runs outa the bin, guess you might, it’s all up to you.
-
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Hello Shane,
From what I remember one of the members layed a continuous loop of pex under a plywood floor to help dry the coal.
If your not going to build a block wall on two sides you may want to consider changing to 2 by 6's or 2 by 8's with a 2 by 6 or 2 by 8 sill plate and anchor with TEC screws.
The only worry I would have with that is that the coal is going to put a pressure load on the wooden walls if the wall is not built all the way to the ceiling joists.with the top sill nailed to the ceiling joists.
Were you planning on vacuuming the coal out of the pallet totes and filling the bin that way using a collection hopper with a toilet flange to seal the opening on the barrel or bucket?
From what I remember one of the members layed a continuous loop of pex under a plywood floor to help dry the coal.
If your not going to build a block wall on two sides you may want to consider changing to 2 by 6's or 2 by 8's with a 2 by 6 or 2 by 8 sill plate and anchor with TEC screws.
The only worry I would have with that is that the coal is going to put a pressure load on the wooden walls if the wall is not built all the way to the ceiling joists.with the top sill nailed to the ceiling joists.
Were you planning on vacuuming the coal out of the pallet totes and filling the bin that way using a collection hopper with a toilet flange to seal the opening on the barrel or bucket?
- McGiever
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Here is a simple slide gate arrangement for the IBC totes I implemented to open and close a bottom gravity discharge.
For feeding a outside chute to basement for transfer I 'd suggest having a elevated landing for the tote...and to have the chute come out a good ways from the building...far enough to allow for "tipping" the tote up and leaning it towards the building to make it easier to encourage better emptying after it lightens up from the initial discharge from sitting level.
Galvanized metal slide gate moves easily and has held up very well especially so, being as totes are stored outdoors in the weather most of the year.
My particular application is to have the tote coupled to my Axeman Anderson's factory equipped feed auger...but this slide gate can work same for dumping...a better gate handle could be incorporated if desired, but in my case it wasn't required.
Link to archive post: Coal Bin Designs
Here are a few closer details:
For feeding a outside chute to basement for transfer I 'd suggest having a elevated landing for the tote...and to have the chute come out a good ways from the building...far enough to allow for "tipping" the tote up and leaning it towards the building to make it easier to encourage better emptying after it lightens up from the initial discharge from sitting level.
Galvanized metal slide gate moves easily and has held up very well especially so, being as totes are stored outdoors in the weather most of the year.
My particular application is to have the tote coupled to my Axeman Anderson's factory equipped feed auger...but this slide gate can work same for dumping...a better gate handle could be incorporated if desired, but in my case it wasn't required.
Link to archive post: Coal Bin Designs
Here are a few closer details:
- swyman
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I am going all the way to the floor joist for strength but not every one. Also using angle iron against the bottom sill plate and Hilti anchored to keep from pushing out. Should work well. I want to use the vacuum to transfer from storage bin to boiler hopper. I am going to dump totes from outside through PVC pipe into the basement bin.lzaharis wrote: ↑Sat. Jul. 21, 2018 11:42 amHello Shane,
From what I remember one of the members layed a continuous loop of pex under a plywood floor to help dry the coal.
If your not going to build a block wall on two sides you may want to consider changing to 2 by 6's or 2 by 8's with a 2 by 6 or 2 by 8 sill plate and anchor with TEC screws.
The only worry I would have with that is that the coal is going to put a pressure load on the wooden walls if the wall is not built all the way to the ceiling joists.with the top sill nailed to the ceiling joists.
Were you planning on vacuuming the coal out of the pallet totes and filling the bin that way using a collection hopper with a toilet flange to seal the opening on the barrel or bucket?
- swyman
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- Coal Size/Type: Lehigh Pea
Mcgiever,McGiever wrote: ↑Sat. Jul. 21, 2018 1:54 pmHere is a simple slide gate arrangement for the IBC totes I implemented to open and close a bottom gravity discharge.
For feeding a outside chute to basement for transfer I 'd suggest having a elevated landing for the tote...and to have the chute come out a good ways from the building...far enough to allow for "tipping" the tote up and leaning it towards the building to make it easier to encourage better emptying after it lightens up from the initial discharge from sitting level.
Galvanized metal slide gate moves easily and has held up very well especially so, being as totes are stored outdoors in the weather most of the year.
My particular application is to have the tote coupled to my Axeman Anderson's factory equipped feed auger...but this slide gate can work same for dumping...a better gate handle could be incorporated if desired, but in my case it wasn't required.
Link to archive post: Coal Bin Designs
Here are a few closer details:
IMG_1592.JPGIMG_1593.JPGIMG_1594.JPGIMG_1595.JPG
This is exactly the simple solution I have been looking for! Thank you! I planned on building an elevated platform already...I have some 6" x 1/4" wall DOM left over from a job....way overkill but $0 out of pocket. Once the coal stops running out I can just tilt the Bobcat forks to get it all out, love the idea. I think it will work better than cutting a hole in the center of the bottom.
- swyman
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Oh, and reading through Mcgiever's post about his totes I came across a guy that said these IBC totes won't hold a full ton of Buck? Last year I took 10 totes and net 11.3 ton of rice....this year I was only going to take 8 totes and get all buck as I was overloaded with 11.3 ton and I don't want to change any blown tires from overloading if I can help it this year. So what do you guys think about rice vs buck regarding weight?
- StokerDon
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Make sure you anchor the bottom very well. The weight of the coal will not only push out but it will try to get under the wall and push it up out of the way. Coal bins normally fail at the bottom.
-Don
-Don
- hotblast1357
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I build my bins out of 2x6 rough cut.
I drill into the concrete and anchor the bottom plate, and I run the top plate to the ceiling of whatever it’s in, 2’ on center wall studs. First bin I used 1x for interior wall sheeting, this last bin I used 2x due to it laying around and didnt want it to rot. It’s not going anywhere.
I drill into the concrete and anchor the bottom plate, and I run the top plate to the ceiling of whatever it’s in, 2’ on center wall studs. First bin I used 1x for interior wall sheeting, this last bin I used 2x due to it laying around and didnt want it to rot. It’s not going anywhere.
- swyman
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I think the 2x6's would be a good insurance policy. HB, did you use 3/4 treated for your sheeting? What should I do for an opening, make slats that I can pull out as the pile goes down?
- hotblast1357
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I used rough cut boards, not sheathing, 1x10 1x12s in the first bin, and 2x8 2x10s in the second bin, way over kill, but I had them laying around, 3/4” sheathing is more than enough.
For my opening I just had a 3’ on center opening, and cut my boards at that opening, so that I can pull them out, left the bottom about 2” up.
For my opening I just had a 3’ on center opening, and cut my boards at that opening, so that I can pull them out, left the bottom about 2” up.
- StokerDon
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- Stoker Coal Boiler: Gentleman Janitor GJ-5, Van Wert VA-600, Axeman Anderson130 X3.
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Harman SF3500 reduced down to 3 grates connected to its own plenum
- Coal Size/Type: Rice, Chestnut and whatever will fit through the door on the Harman
- Other Heating: Noth'in but COAL! Well, Maybe a little tiny bit of wood
I also use 2x10 or 2x12 for the slats. They are overkill but easy to make.
-Don
From the dimensions you gave, 2'x4'x6', your bin will only hold a ton or so. That's a bit lighter than most bins so you could go with 1/2" plywood. I would use treated wood if you are leaving it in place for a long time.-Don
- hotblast1357
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Build the bin as big as possible! Enough to hold a years worth of possible.
- StokerDon
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- Stoker Coal Boiler: Gentleman Janitor GJ-5, Van Wert VA-600, Axeman Anderson130 X3.
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Harman SF3500 reduced down to 3 grates connected to its own plenum
- Coal Size/Type: Rice, Chestnut and whatever will fit through the door on the Harman
- Other Heating: Noth'in but COAL! Well, Maybe a little tiny bit of wood
I agree completely. But, the way I understand it, he is going to the breaker to pick up his own coal. This is being loaded into totes that hold a little over a ton each. This is not a bad strategy as the coal is only moved twice, tote to bin, then bin to hopper.hotblast1357 wrote: ↑Sun. Jul. 22, 2018 10:28 amBuild the bin as big as possible! Enough to hold a years worth of possible.
That being said, It might be a better idea to make the bin large enough to hold 5 or 6 ton if possible. That way you can schedule it in a way that you don't need to fill the bin during the Winter.
-Don
- hotblast1357
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Why not make it so that the skid steer can lower the tote down into the basement, and be able to move the tire with a pallet jack, and use the vac system to transfer from tote to boiler hopper.