LL AA-220 Relocation

 
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swyman
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Post by swyman » Tue. Dec. 26, 2017 2:08 pm

McGiever wrote:
Tue. Dec. 26, 2017 12:21 pm
Is there an explanation to the stated "over temp" above t'stat set point?

Guessing it was the unwanted blower constantly blowing over the 'fan coil' in propane furnace???.
Yes it was from the blower constantly blowing across the coil.....house was nice and toasty though! Can's say enough about that DHW coil also...the 80 gallon hot water tank with side are provided a lot of hot water so I was a little hesitant on what the output of the on demand coil in the boiler would do and it has been wonderful! The water is as hot as you can stand it which for me isn't much but my wife and kids love it. Has to be more efficient than keeping that extra 80 gallons hot vs just heating what you use?


 
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Post by CapeCoaler » Tue. Dec. 26, 2017 2:45 pm

depends on how your DHW load is structured...
if you need to run two showers and the dishwasher at the same time...
The tank is worth the slight heat loss..

 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Tue. Dec. 26, 2017 2:49 pm

As long as you exceed the flow rate capability of the tankless coil, it will work great.

If you are using the coil by itself, you should be using a mixing valve to prevent burns.

 
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swyman
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Post by swyman » Tue. Dec. 26, 2017 3:04 pm

Rob R. wrote:
Tue. Dec. 26, 2017 2:49 pm
As long as you exceed the flow rate capability of the tankless coil, it will work great.

If you are using the coil by itself, you should be using a mixing valve to prevent burns.
Am I crazy for not using a mixing valve? I have had boiler fed hot water in the winter and have never used one. I kind of like the extra heat once in a while and there has never been an accident with the kids. Have done it this way for 8 years now and my youngest is 10. I really like the pressure...well I guess you could call it a volume difference that we get in the winter since you don't have to turn the valve very far to get hot water, its using more of the cold side and the result is like a pressure booster in the shower and I love it...if that makes sense?

 
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windyhill4.2
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Post by windyhill4.2 » Tue. Dec. 26, 2017 3:12 pm

I've been using boiler temp water with no mixing valve since first firing of the OWB in Sept 2006,have had no issues. I have thought about it occasionally when reading about them on this forum.

 
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Post by Rob R. » Tue. Dec. 26, 2017 3:18 pm

Do what you want, but a shot of 180 degree out of that coil is bad news for anyone unaware on the other end. I had a very close call with a toddler, and was grateful that the hot water was tempered to a safe temperature.

 
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swyman
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Post by swyman » Wed. Jan. 03, 2018 5:42 pm

Burned 207lbs of coal last night and had 18lbs of ash! Super happy!


 
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swyman
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Post by swyman » Tue. Jan. 23, 2018 5:06 pm

Weather here yesterday was warm to say the least so I thought I would take advantage and shut off the circulator to the barn loop as I knew I would not have to worry about anything freezing. Wanted to do this to see how much of a coal consumption/boiler performance difference there would be. I got home from work today, went out to the barn and to my surprise both PEX lines were hot! Don't know if it's gravity or not but got me to thinking.....does the water flow backwards? I have 2 circulators on the manifold and the 3rd circulator is in the barn. So the circulator side would have low pressure and the return would have high or higher psi on the return manifold? I took the check valve out of the barn circulator pump when I installed it last season. Anyway, I turned off the valve on that loop tonight so that should stop any flow and I can see how the boiler performs this next 24hrs. Supposed to stay fairly warm, around freezing anyway but I shouldn't have a line freezing issue. This is the first time I have ran such a test, never had barn loop off before! Excited to see what happens. It's very windy right now also so that should add more heat cycles. Oh, and the barn inside temp was 50*!

 
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Post by Olllotj » Tue. Jan. 23, 2018 5:32 pm

Flow check in the barn circulator?

 
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StokerDon
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Post by StokerDon » Tue. Jan. 23, 2018 7:18 pm

If you have no flow check or zone valve in the barn circuit, your boiler will push heat to it. It won't be as fast as if the pump was running but the heat will get there.

I don't think the reverse check valve in the pump can change that.

-Don

 
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swyman
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Post by swyman » Tue. Jan. 23, 2018 7:35 pm

Olllotj wrote:
Tue. Jan. 23, 2018 5:32 pm
Flow check in the barn circulator?
I removed it when installed

 
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swyman
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Post by swyman » Tue. Jan. 23, 2018 7:42 pm

StokerDon wrote:
Tue. Jan. 23, 2018 7:18 pm
If you have no flow check or zone valve in the barn circuit, your boiler will push heat to it. It won't be as fast as if the pump was running but the heat will get there.

I don't think the reverse check valve in the pump can change that.

-Don
Maybe that's my best bet when it gets cold again unless I'm using the heat exchanger in the barn? Just have boiler push heat at it so it doesn't freeze? Also I found my heat loss in that system. I put in a vault next to the pool as my original intention when I installed the system was to heat the pool with the OWB. Well I never bought a water to water but I exposed the PEX and installed valves in there. 2 years ago I filled that vault with spray foam thinking it would totally insulate around the PEX but went out there before the warm up and the lid had melted snow in it. I am thinking about digging that up and splicing new Thermal PEX in place of the vault to seal it up OR just forget that loop and buy a free standing stoker coal stove to install in the barn? What would you do?

 
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swyman
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Post by swyman » Tue. Jan. 23, 2018 7:50 pm

20180123_170956.jpg
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One other thing, I have a very small water leak on the TEE coming out of the boiler. You can see in the pic, upper left 1 1/2" black pipe coming out the top of the boiler. White mineral or something deposits running down that pipe from the TEE. Should I just shut it down for a second and give it another turn or should I take it off and put pipe dope on it?
Hotblast, what is that tape you have on your stove pipe connections and where do I get it?

 
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Post by windyhill4.2 » Tue. Jan. 23, 2018 7:57 pm

swyman wrote:
Tue. Jan. 23, 2018 7:42 pm
Maybe that's my best bet when it gets cold again unless I'm using the heat exchanger in the barn? Just have boiler push heat at it so it doesn't freeze? Also I found my heat loss in that system. I put in a vault next to the pool as my original intention when I installed the system was to heat the pool with the OWB. Well I never bought a water to water but I exposed the PEX and installed valves in there. 2 years ago I filled that vault with spray foam thinking it would totally insulate around the PEX but went out there before the warm up and the lid had melted snow in it. I am thinking about digging that up and splicing new Thermal PEX in place of the vault to seal it up OR just forget that loop and buy a free standing stoker coal stove to install in the barn? What would you do?
Fix the heat leak in the pex loop...
Another stoker ???? with no chimney ???? another power vent ???????????????????????????????? :no1:

Save your $$$$ for a masonry chimney for your 220 boiler.

 
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Post by StokerDon » Tue. Jan. 23, 2018 8:18 pm

My quick thought is that a stove in the barn would be better than heating the ground. That should save some coal. The stove in the barn idea also has the advantage of no freezing pipes to worry about.

Looks like that pipe fitting might have to come apart to be resealed.

-Don


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