LL AA-220 Relocation

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hotblast1357
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Post by hotblast1357 » Fri. Nov. 03, 2017 2:35 pm

So just put t’s in each 1/1/2, and connect them with a shut off in the line also.

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swyman
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Post by swyman » Mon. Nov. 13, 2017 10:01 am

I have a question about the importance of using check valves in my system. My 3 loops all supply a water to air heat exchanger, so will I get a lot of gravity flow without a check? If I need check valves are the ones that are built into the pump sufficient? I have just read that the internals hinder output but 2 of my runs are pretty short and I'm using a larger DIA pipe to my main exchanger.

 
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Post by lsayre » Mon. Nov. 13, 2017 10:24 am

If you want to eliminate the potential for heating your zones all the time, check valves are a good idea. The ones inside circulators work fine.

I was just looking at your bypass. What is going to cause liquid to flow through it?

 
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swyman
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Post by swyman » Mon. Nov. 13, 2017 11:37 am

That's not my bypass, its hotblast's. I was kinda wondering the same thing which is why I wanted to see pics on where to locate. I guess what I meant on that post was not a bypass per se but a balance valve is that makes sense? For instance I remember reading a reply to one of my other threads because I was having a 50* temp differential between supply and return and one of the members asked where my bypass valve was. That way I could open the valve between supply and return to mix back some of that hot water to limit or control my delta t (think I used that term right?). Still learning and appreciate the replies.....trying my hardest to do it right this time.

 
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hotblast1357
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Post by hotblast1357 » Mon. Nov. 13, 2017 1:08 pm

My pump caused liquid to flow through it, pump was after air scoop.

 
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swyman
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Post by swyman » Tue. Nov. 14, 2017 11:05 am

Mine will be after the air scoop also and before the circulators so I should be good? On that note, my circulators will be located about 6' from my boiler. I was going to put the air scoop at the highest point as close to the boiler as possible or should it be closer to the circulators or doesn't it matter.....the run to the circulators will be at same highest point so does it matter where its at along that plane?
Last edited by swyman on Tue. Nov. 14, 2017 11:08 am, edited 1 time in total.

 
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hotblast1357
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Post by hotblast1357 » Tue. Nov. 14, 2017 11:08 am

mine went bypass, then air scoop, then circulator. It mixed my return water with my feed water which in turn slowed down how much water came out of my boiler, but I never did have to use it.


 
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swyman
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Post by swyman » Tue. Nov. 14, 2017 11:10 am

hotblast1357 wrote:
Tue. Nov. 14, 2017 11:08 am
mine went bypass, then air scoop, then circulator. It mixed my return water with my feed water which in turn slowed down how much water came out of my boiler, but I never did have to use it.
Thank you....hopefully I wont need it either but it's easier to just add it now.

 
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Post by StokerDon » Wed. Nov. 15, 2017 8:00 pm

swyman wrote:
Fri. Nov. 03, 2017 9:23 am
I have been advised enough through the last couple years by you folks about a boiler bypass valve to help with temp differential. Want to make sure I do everything right so where is the best place to install? I assume as close to the boiler as possible but seems every time I assume something it gets me into trouble! Pics are very welcome of your setup BTW
Yes, you should install one. And yes, it should be close to the boiler. This will keep the internal water temperature more even during idle periods.
Doesn't the LL install manual show a bypass?

-Don

 
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swyman
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Post by swyman » Thu. Nov. 16, 2017 11:18 am

StokerDon wrote:
Wed. Nov. 15, 2017 8:00 pm
Yes, you should install one. And yes, it should be close to the boiler. This will keep the internal water temperature more even during idle periods.
Doesn't the LL install manual show a bypass?

-Don
This is all I see in the manual, maybe it's there but I can't tell?
Capture.PNG
.PNG | 1.3MB | Capture.PNG

 
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Post by hotblast1357 » Thu. Nov. 16, 2017 11:22 am

Not there from what I see.

Just put one in, you can always shut it off with a ball valve installed in it if you need to, and that valve also lets you adjust it.

 
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Post by Rob R. » Thu. Nov. 16, 2017 12:33 pm

A bypass may or may not be needed depending on the rest of the system.

e.g. if you have a primary loop with no flow checks, or are circulating through something continuously (like a plate exchanger) there is no need for a bypass to prevent stratification.

 
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Post by swyman » Sat. Nov. 25, 2017 9:43 am

Getting ready to order my vent pipe from Menards. Was going to buy their Selkirk double wall black stove pipe to run horizontally to my direct vent to improve my clearance to combustibles . I will be going vertical 3' then 12' horizontal. Reason I ask if single wall will plug into double is my baro tee is single wall so I figured having a Tee off the breech of the boiler and then the baro all single wall to a double wall 90* to start the horizontal run? I assume it will work but this stuff is a special order and I don't want to mess up.

 
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Post by windyhill4.2 » Sat. Nov. 25, 2017 9:51 am

I have single wall from boiler to double wall that starts near the ceiling.

 
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Post by coaledsweat » Sat. Nov. 25, 2017 11:07 am

I wouldn't use insulated pipe inside my home. You want the heat inside, not out.


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