Harman VF3000 Coming Today!!!

nomoreoil
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Post Thu. Mar. 20, 2008 9:17 pm

What did you pay for it?

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Coalbrokdale
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Stove/Furnace Make: Harman \ Coalbrookdale
Stove/Furnace Model: VF3000 \Darby

Post Fri. Mar. 21, 2008 7:37 am

Yes... I realize it would be a bad idea to dry fire the thing :shock: . Although this thing is built like a tank. The amount of crossbar bracing is amazing. Heat on cold steel does funny things it loves to warp and twist. I would hate to have to explain to the miss's why our new boiler is leaking

How do you vF3000 owners have you JC S350 wired up, zone and cirpump?
Last edited by Coalbrokdale on Fri. Mar. 21, 2008 7:42 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Coalbrokdale
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Stove/Furnace Make: Harman \ Coalbrookdale
Stove/Furnace Model: VF3000 \Darby

Post Fri. Mar. 21, 2008 7:40 am

nomoreoil wrote:What did you pay for it?
$4100 with DHW coil delivered into my garage. Ordered from a dealer in NJ and had it delivered to my home in NY to avoid sales tax.

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gambler
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Post Fri. Mar. 21, 2008 7:52 am

Coalbrokdale wrote: Ordered from a dealer in NJ and had it delivered to my home in NY to avoid sales tax.
Mr. Coalbrokdale, come out with your hands up! This is the IRS,BATF,FBI. You are wanted on tax evasion. :shock: :lol:

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Coalbrokdale
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Stove/Furnace Make: Harman \ Coalbrookdale
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Post Sun. Mar. 23, 2008 7:28 pm

Well she's in and I have the stack hooked up, fitting pipes now...

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Sting
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Post Sun. Mar. 23, 2008 9:17 pm

Sorry _ I just have to use this now!

Image

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Coalbrokdale
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Stove/Furnace Make: Harman \ Coalbrookdale
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Post Mon. Mar. 24, 2008 8:57 am

I'll try to post some as soon as I can. I should have taken picture of the process of moving it into the basement... I did the entire job myself. I dragged the thing on across the back yard to the basement steps while on the pallet. I used a come-along to get it to the steps and then hooked a tow strap to the trailer hitch of the truck, slowly backed up, as it slid down the steps....Crazy...but it went smoothly. I then installed a couple of eye-bolts in one of the floor joists and lifted it onto the base as I used a floor jack to take up some of the weight. When I had it in place I stepped back and thought holey crap its here!!

I'm just a little nervous about draining the system to tee into it... Never drained a boiler and refilled one before. I guess I'm concerned about getting all the air out.

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LsFarm
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Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland
Location: Michigan

Post Mon. Mar. 24, 2008 9:49 am

Congrats on getting the 'weightlifting' done!

Depending on how your system was plumbed, you might have shut off valves so you can drain only the boiler and a small part of the plumbing.. In my disaster of original plumbing, the guy did at least install lots of shut off valves.. I can replace circulator pumps, or the boiler without draining all the baseboards..

Don't worry about getting all the air out,, it will come out.. just look at all the baseboards for bleeders, they should be at the top of the return-to-the-basement runs..

Greg L

.

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Coalbrokdale
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Stove/Furnace Make: Harman \ Coalbrookdale
Stove/Furnace Model: VF3000 \Darby

Post Mon. Mar. 24, 2008 11:12 am

Hey thanks, I'm not to sore.... Yeah my baseboards don't have any air bleeder screws just the element inclosed in the covers.

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coaledsweat
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Post Mon. Mar. 24, 2008 11:34 am

Sometimes a plumber will install a spigot on the return. If so, just put a hose on it and throw the end of it out the door and open the valve. As you fill it, the water runs from the return and when it stops bubbling, you'll have most of the air out.

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Coalbrokdale
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Stove/Furnace Model: VF3000 \Darby

Post Mon. Mar. 24, 2008 12:23 pm

Ok cool, yeah on mine.. just above each zone valve there is a seperate sipgot. In this photo you can't see them but they are just above the zone valves. I may do the job tomorrow....

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Sting
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Post Mon. Mar. 24, 2008 12:44 pm

Just to mention - make sure the boiler is cold - the pressure is up like around 20psi - the zone valve is closed - open the purge drain one at a time and let it blow, watch your pressure. If you can limit the blow down to just one zone you will have less new liquid to "degass" but don't worry about that now - just get the air out and the new boiler in -

See if you can place a purge valve also in your new boiler loop to make the next service easier!

We can "tweek" later - :)

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