350 Restoration

 
plumber
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Post by plumber » Sun. Mar. 30, 2014 1:18 pm

After dry fitting the jacket it looks like I'll be using 1" insulation. I've got about 1 3/8" airspace between the boiler and the jacket. The jacket on this boiler is very modular, it can easily be installed and removed with all the piping and controls installed. I think once everything is done I'll only be removing the rear panels to inspect the coil and perform a cleaning.


 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Sun. Mar. 30, 2014 1:20 pm

1" will be excellent. I have used 3M foil tape to hold the panels together, but some of the denser materials can probably be screwed.

What have you done to the stoker?

 
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Post by Lu47Dan » Sun. Mar. 30, 2014 1:38 pm

Plumber. that sounds like a plan.
When you are laying out for the penetrations in the board for the piping and controls, do not fit them too tight. Give yourself a little wiggle room on them.
Then seal around the opening with mastic and tape.
Mastic.
http://www.buyinsulationproductstore.com/servlet/ ... ion/Detail
Tape
http://www.buyinsulationproductstore.com/servlet/ ... ape/Detail
The tape is applied just like drywall joint tape is.
Dan.

 
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Post by plumber » Sun. Mar. 30, 2014 1:40 pm

The stoker has new burner grates and associated gaskets. I also gave the fan and housing a thorough cleaning. I've got to change the oil in the gearbox.

 
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Post by Rob R. » Sun. Mar. 30, 2014 1:45 pm

Auger & bushing?

Degrease the ratchet assembly with solvent and fill the pan with fresh gear lube. If you are sensitive to the smell of gear lube 20w-50 or 30w engine oil also works well in the pan and doesn't stink.

 
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Post by plumber » Thu. Apr. 10, 2014 7:49 pm

:mad:
Snag in the road. The weld around the tank less coil has a couple pinhole leaks. Glad I decided to fill it before I pulled the old boiler. Now to find a reputable welder.

 
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Post by Lu47Dan » Fri. Apr. 11, 2014 9:40 am

plumber wrote::mad: Now to find a reputable welder.
Or a pound of salt.
Dan.


 
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Post by plumber » Fri. Apr. 11, 2014 3:14 pm

Salt? I'm not sure I want to brine my boiler. :shock:

 
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Post by Lu47Dan » Fri. Apr. 11, 2014 4:34 pm

Plumber, I have seen pinholes fixed in large sectional cast iron boilers with 10 pounds of salt. :shock: :lol: :P
When you spend a month assembling it, the man hours involved to take it apart to change out a single section that has a pin hole leak can be more than the assembly time. the salt treatment saves a time and money.
The salt corrodes the pinhole shut and forms a plug in it. We tore out one very large boiler that had maybe three sections that had leaked over the years and had been fixed with salt as a sealer.
You flush the salt out of the system after the leaks are sealed up.
Of course this does not work on high pressure boilers but does work on lower pressure systems.
Dan.

 
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Post by plumber » Thu. Apr. 17, 2014 11:50 am

All leaks have been repaired. Boiler has been holding 25psi for a day now. Hopefully Saturday I can get it fired up and running.
I've put an aquastat on the auger tube, what should I set that at?

 
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Post by plumber » Thu. Apr. 17, 2014 11:51 am

More progress photos.

Attachments

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20140415_203347.jpg
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Lu47Dan
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Post by Lu47Dan » Fri. Apr. 18, 2014 9:56 am

Plumber, looks nice........except the location of the electrical devices.
They should never be under anything that can leak water onto them.
Dan.

 
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Post by plumber » Fri. Apr. 18, 2014 10:18 am

Lu47Dan wrote:Plumber, looks nice........except the location of the electrical devices.
They should never be under anything that can leak water onto them.
Dan.
I agree with that 100%!! That's why I'm fabricating a shroud to protect the electronics. The location was the only place practical in my basement and there is plumbing along every wall in the basement. I chose this spot as the least likely to leak spot. As well the photo kind of takes out the real depth. Those pipes are a good 10 inches in front of the electronics. Oh, and the photos got rotated 90 degrees when I uploaded them.

 
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Post by vermontday » Fri. Apr. 18, 2014 10:24 am

Looks like a nice neat install.

 
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Post by Lu47Dan » Fri. Apr. 18, 2014 10:32 am

Plumber, Okay I did not see the photos in the correct orientation, :oops: so the electrical devices should be fine where they are.
But at least the caution of not mounting electrical devices below possible leaks is there to remind people.
Dan,
Last edited by Lu47Dan on Sat. Apr. 19, 2014 9:38 am, edited 1 time in total.


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