Steel Stoker Cleaning Brush

 
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stoker-man
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Hand Fed Coal Boiler: 1981 efm wcb-24 in use 365 days a year
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Post by stoker-man » Wed. Feb. 20, 2008 11:25 am

Does the self-cleaning action of the AA deposit ash dust in the flue pipe?

 
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Yanche
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Stoker Coal Boiler: Alternate Heating Systems S-130
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Post by Yanche » Wed. Feb. 20, 2008 12:15 pm

stoker-man wrote:Does the self-cleaning action of the AA deposit ash dust in the flue pipe?
Then A-A Antratube and AHS Coalgun boilers both have cyclone type ash separators as part of the flue gas path. It deposits part, but not all of the flue gas ash in to the ash bucket. The fly ash that makes it through the cyclone still collects in the flue pipe. The cyclone size is way too small to removal all the fly ash. I've looked at the design equations for cyclone ash separators and an effective separator would need to be much larger, 18-20 inches in diameter.

 
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stoker-man
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Post by stoker-man » Wed. Feb. 20, 2008 2:30 pm

OK, I got it. I have a cyclone dust separater in my wood shop. Properly sized, they work great.


 
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coal berner
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Post by coal berner » Wed. Feb. 20, 2008 7:15 pm

Yanche wrote:That's why I like the 4 inch threaded domestic coil mount over the flat plate style. In my opinion it's easier to seal a pipe thread, especially with modern high temperature silicone RTV, than it is to seal a flat plate. A pipe thread joint is a leak with a long spiral path, but you have multiple places on that path to make a seal. A much better design over the flat plate gasket design that depends on an adhesive or crushing of the gasket material for the seal.
Ageed I think thats why Keystoker & even Yellowflame used them for that Reason

 
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coal berner
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Post by coal berner » Wed. Feb. 20, 2008 7:28 pm

lincolnmania wrote:do I need a different brush for my af150?
Hey Scott here is the of type brush you need for the 150

https://www.northlineexpress.com/chimney/chimney- ... 76250.html

 
oilman
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Post by oilman » Wed. Feb. 20, 2008 8:40 pm

stoker-man wrote:https://www.northlineexpress.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=5RU-47N-H-2

Is this the brush? Quality?
That's it. What I would recommend is using the u-brush with a short chimney rod. Then get your self the "straight scout brush" . There is a plug in the end of the scout brush. Discard the plug and shove your short chimney rod in there as an extension.
For the furnace, you will need the noodle brush for cleaning the tubes in the rear section.These are flexible so you can turn them down and start them into the tubes. I also use the common millbury duster brush to reach up and clean off the top of the hanging baffle above the burner. Also, I use mini wire brushes to scrub the burner plates and a dentist's pick to open up the air holes that are stubborn.


 
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Scottscoaled
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Post by Scottscoaled » Sun. Mar. 13, 2011 12:03 am

This is a good thread. Just want to bump it. Has anybody tried the brush a couple posts back by Oilman? I use a toilet scrubber but it doesn't hold up. Right tool for the job :idea: :)

 
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Berlin
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Post by Berlin » Sun. Mar. 13, 2011 1:30 am

well, I'd have to agree with coalberner on this one, I've never seen an AA boiler in person, but, from the pics posted on here of black soot/flyash buildup in the flue pipe, it seems pretty surprising that they keep all the interior boiler surfaces that clean. My bit stokers will produce about 1/8" of sooty flyash per season (5ton) in the flue, and, without brushing, it builds up about that much in the heat exchanger every few weeks and then peels/flakes off and keeps on going. I've never seen flues clogged with as much dark flyash as I've seen on this site with AA type boilers. They probably are great boilers, but they seem to produce an abnormal quantity of dark flyash, especially in the flue.

 
daluds
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Post by daluds » Sun. Mar. 20, 2011 10:03 am

I use the 2' long grill brushes. Works great. Lowe's sells them occasionally.

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