Thinking of Purchasing a WL110 but Concerned

Flyer5 · Post by **Flyer5** » Thu. Jan. 16, 2014 4:34 pm

kstills wrote:
Flyer5 wrote:
If the combustion blower has a damper plate on the inlet it is a 65cfm. If not it is a 60cfm and is not really 60cfm at the static pressure the boilers have. http://leisurelinestoves.com/files/63976873.pdf . If you have the 60cfm contact your dealer to get the 65cfm.
Dave
Lol, well, I can guarantee you I don't have one of those damper plates on my fan. If I did, it would have been something else I would have been playing with.

Have the dealer call us and we will send one to you. It is no cost to you but we try to involve the dealer so we can track everything. This is on the boilers only. Dave

kstills · Post by **kstills** » Thu. Jan. 16, 2014 4:36 pm

Flyer5 wrote:
Lol, well, I can guarantee you I don't have one of those damper plates on my fan. If I did, it would have been something else I would have been playing with.

Have the dealer call us and we will send one to you. It is no cost to you but we try to involve the dealer so we can track everything. Dave

Is that your phone ringing?.....

Flyer5 · Post by **Flyer5** » Thu. Jan. 16, 2014 4:39 pm

kstills wrote:
Flyer5 wrote:
Lol, well, I can guarantee you I don't have one of those damper plates on my fan. If I did, it would have been something else I would have been playing with.

Have the dealer call us and we will send one to you. It is no cost to you but we try to involve the dealer so we can track everything. Dave
Is that your phone ringing?.....

Might be my Tinnitus. Not sure.

jeff216410 · Post by **jeff216410** » Thu. Jan. 23, 2014 1:26 pm

I have a 1955 build ranch with 3 additions. First, I have a 13'x22' family room off the end of the house with skylights and not such great insulation. Second, a dining room on the side of the house mostly all windows, 13'x20' with 2x6 walls - well insulated. Third our bedroom is on the other end of the house above a 1 car garage with 2x4 walls and decent insulation, but requires a lot of heat because it is above a garage (insulated floor but still cold). Basement is finished into an inlaw apartment. I have 2250 sqft upstairs, 900 finished downstairs. I have 5 zones of heat. I have iron pipe under the floors feeding iron baseboards in the main house. The additions are copper tube/fin baseboard. Couple things I have observed after running 110 boiler a few years...

Be aware of the water volume in your piping and baseboards. My main zone has more that 20 gallons of water in it and boiler has 12. Yes it takes time to get it up to temp, but once it is at temp it maintains well and keeps the house warm for a long time. Also, all 5 zones running at once is not good. I keep the house on 70 all the time so it is just maintaining and it does well. If boiler is down for any reason (like if I forget to put coal in it) I shut a couple zones off and let the others get to temp first. Make sure you have a valve in each zone to reduce and control flow. I should have gotten the 220 boiler for the extra capacity, but would only need the second burner in the extreme cold. The extra water capacity would help in my case.

Don't be afraid to raise water temp in the cold. I run 180 low limit during winter sometimes 190. You will heat your house well with 180 degree water running through the baseboards. With that said, If I consider my house without my family room, dining room, and master bedroom, the 110 would have no problem at all heating my house including basement. (my basement is drywalled but no insulation. My "main" house (ranch minus additions) only has 1.5 inch figerglass insulation in the walls. In fact, I think your boiler would sit idle quite a bit. I caught mine idling last night and it was 5 degrees F outside. All zones were satisfied.

I replaced 8 single pane windows and 2 skylights with energy efficient units and saved a ton of coal per year. Add insulation and fix drafts where you can.

I'm heating over 3000 sqft and while I am pushing it hard, I am walking around the house in shorts in the dead of winter.

Good luck! and coal is the way to go!

Flyer5 · Post by **Flyer5** » Thu. Jan. 23, 2014 1:38 pm

Do you have the new fan Jeff? Recovery is a major improvement with the new fan. Dave

jeff216410 wrote:I have a 1955 build ranch with 3 additions. First, I have a 13'x22' family room off the end of the house with skylights and not such great insulation. Second, a dining room on the side of the house mostly all windows, 13'x20' with 2x6 walls - well insulated. Third our bedroom is on the other end of the house above a 1 car garage with 2x4 walls and decent insulation, but requires a lot of heat because it is above a garage (insulated floor but still cold). Basement is finished into an inlaw apartment. I have 2250 sqft upstairs, 900 finished downstairs. I have 5 zones of heat. I have iron pipe under the floors feeding iron baseboards in the main house. The additions are copper tube/fin baseboard. Couple things I have observed after running 110 boiler a few years...

Be aware of the water volume in your piping and baseboards. My main zone has more that 20 gallons of water in it and boiler has 12. Yes it takes time to get it up to temp, but once it is at temp it maintains well and keeps the house warm for a long time. Also, all 5 zones running at once is not good. I keep the house on 70 all the time so it is just maintaining and it does well. If boiler is down for any reason (like if I forget to put coal in it) I shut a couple zones off and let the others get to temp first. Make sure you have a valve in each zone to reduce and control flow. I should have gotten the 220 boiler for the extra capacity, but would only need the second burner in the extreme cold. The extra water capacity would help in my case.

Don't be afraid to raise water temp in the cold. I run 180 low limit during winter sometimes 190. You will heat your house well with 180 degree water running through the baseboards. With that said, If I consider my house without my family room, dining room, and master bedroom, the 110 would have no problem at all heating my house including basement. (my basement is drywalled but no insulation. My "main" house (ranch minus additions) only has 1.5 inch figerglass insulation in the walls. In fact, I think your boiler would sit idle quite a bit. I caught mine idling last night and it was 5 degrees F outside. All zones were satisfied.

I replaced 8 single pane windows and 2 skylights with energy efficient units and saved a ton of coal per year. Add insulation and fix drafts where you can.

I'm heating over 3000 sqft and while I am pushing it hard, I am walking around the house in shorts in the dead of winter.

Good luck! and coal is the way to go!

KLook · Post by **KLook** » Thu. Jan. 23, 2014 1:44 pm

Not to mention it seems you would benefit greatly from a storage tank to increase your standing supply of hot water. Would not be expensive to install.

Kevin

kstills · Post by **kstills** » Thu. Jan. 23, 2014 3:32 pm

KLook wrote:Not to mention it seems you would benefit greatly from a storage tank to increase your standing supply of hot water. Would not be expensive to install.

Kevin

And a small fan blowing on the boiler.....

KLook · Post by **KLook** » Thu. Jan. 23, 2014 3:36 pm

kstills On: Thu Jan 23, 2014 3:32 pm

KLook wrote:Not to mention it seems you would benefit greatly from a storage tank to increase your standing supply of hot water. Would not be expensive to install.

Kevin

And a small fan blowing on the boiler.....

Actually, I have a fan installed in the ceiling of my boiler rm back in Maine. I hooked it up to a dimmer switch that is powered by the boiler so it only runs when it is hot. Does that count?

Kevin

jeff216410 · Post by **jeff216410** » Thu. Jan. 23, 2014 11:07 pm

I do have the new fan on my boiler. It did help a great deal. I'm planning to add a DHW storage tank to level out the hot water temps a bit. I don't have a problem, but after a bathtub full of water for the kids the boiler temp is at about 120F. It recovers in about 5 minutes. Showers are not a problem because the hot water first goes through a mixing valve at the boiler and then mixed at the shower head. I never have a problem with hot water for showers. The tank will allow me to lower my limits especially in summer which will save coal and keep me away from hitting the dump zone. I currently rely on thermal inertia in the boiler to give me enough hot water to fill a bathtub.