Looking to Install a Boiler

Is the boiler going to be the the basement also? If so, I would not put a radiator in the basement that you can't control. i.e. put that cast iron radiator on its own zone. I have a big cast iron radiator in my basement that previously did NOT have any valves on it, and it is on the same zone as my first floor. In the spring and fall when it isn't really that cold the heat from the boiler alone will keep the basement in the 70's, that big radiator would have it close to 80 sometimes. I put shutoffs on the radiator so I can disable it in mild weather, but having it on a separate thermostat would be a better setup.

Rob R. wrote:Is the boiler going to be the the basement also? If so, I would not put a radiator in the basement that you can't control. i.e. put that cast iron radiator on its own zone. I have a big cast iron radiator in my basement that previously did NOT have any valves on it, and it is on the same zone as my first floor. In the spring and fall when it isn't really that cold the heat from the boiler alone will keep the basement in the 70's, that big radiator would have it close to 80 sometimes. I put shutoffs on the radiator so I can disable it in mild weather, but having it on a separate thermostat would be a better setup.

My 1700 square foot, un-insulated basement stays 68* (No Radiation). And that's with the little Kaa-2 boiler.

How reliable are the Alpha or Taco's BB? I'm assuming they havent been in the field to much length of time? I thought zone valves would be "good enough" but with a variable drive pump I don't see why "good enough" wouldnt be just right. How hard it is for setup/programming of these pumps?

anthony7812 wrote:How reliable are the Alpha or Taco's BB? I'm assuming they havent been in the field to much length of time? I thought zone valves would be "good enough" but with a variable drive pump I don't see why "good enough" wouldnt be just right. How hard it is for setup/programming of these pumps?

I thought they adjusted themselves, as in install and walk away with a smile. I'm interested in the real answer though.

You can set them to "auto adapt", or set them to a constant output of your choosing. Lots of heating guys hate change.

After reviewing them I believe the Grundfos Alpha is the better way to go. The Taco Bumble Bee seems to work its variable speed magic via a series of temperature sensors measuring Delta-T. I believe the Grundfos works its magic via Delta-P. The principles of speed variability therefore appear to be different between them. It appears that I was wrong earlier in suggesting them to be kissing cousins. Or was I?

anthony7812 wrote:How reliable are the Alpha or Taco's BB? I'm assuming they havent been in the field to much length of time? I thought zone valves would be "good enough" but with a variable drive pump I don't see why "good enough" wouldnt be just right. How hard it is for setup/programming of these pumps?

Grundfos is big a leader in hydronic heating, not only on this continent but in EU and elsewhere. Taco is gaining more presence all the time. Neither one is going to allow themselves to fall on their faces by putting out junkie items.

The Grundfos ALPHA is a big hit over in the EU where electricity is expensive and hydronic heating is more popular than here in the US.
I installed an ALPHA on a growing experimental loop I have been tinkering with here.
There is nothing more than scrolling through some option menus to select what mode you desire.

How long does a keystoker hold up? Ive heard the axemans running 50+ years and EFM's lasting the same but noone saying if a keystoker holds up to the test of time. Any first handers with an older keystoker?

I don't think you will wear one out........

Kevin

anthony7812 wrote:How long does a keystoker hold up? Ive heard the axemans running 50+ years and EFM's lasting the same but noone saying if a keystoker holds up to the test of time. Any first handers with an older keystoker?

If you maintain the equipment, the lifespan of the pressure vessel should not be a concern in your lifetime. Will a Keystoker last as long as an AA or EFM? I am not sure...but I know which one is cheaper to freshen up at the 30 year mark.

If you want some first-hand reviews, give Matt Direnzo a call and ask him how many "old" Keystokers he works on. I know he has posted some pictures of some very old Yellow-Flame units, which are a very similar design.

My engine hoist will certify that the Keystoker pressure vessels are pretty heavy.

The stokers also are heavy duty, with few moving parts, and parts that tend to wear are straightforward to replace. Keystoker still produces a full line of stokers, so factory parts are readily available. I'm a fan and user of EFM's, but I don't have any qualms about the durability of Keystokers.

Mike

I think gaw has a 20 something year old KA6. How's it holding up?

Before buying my Keystoker boiler, I was talking to a man who was running an old Ka-6. I don't remember how old he said it was. I do remember it was quite old, and still going strong.

I have an old rite way dana 1 wood /coal boiler....I saw a couple a years ago someone trying to give one away in NH because they never used coal.Mine is 30 years old and going strong,,,cast baseboard is the way to go,,,I have a rancher with a big loop ,old stand ups in garage and basement,,,I just finished bleeding them for the first time this year.Ive been burning wood up till today,,taking a while to heat the house ,but when it gets there it stays there with coal.Cant go wrong salvaging old cast base or standup heaters. grundfous circulator pumps,same age as my stove.

My concern was the longevity of the vessel. The stoker(any stoker) has 2 big components that are against it, heat and moving parts. Someday it WILL fail but the stoker parts are easily replaced or repairable.