AA-260 Install

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whistlenut
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Post Sat. Dec. 21, 2013 9:57 am

Good news about your first night...now I hate to tell you, but that was the big excitement. These boilers just keep chuggin' along and require 2 things: Fuel, and removing ash. Keep an eye on moving parts and make sure lubrication and oil levels are maintained......and make a sign with the famous 'One Fingered Salute' for the oil or gas man to display on your front lawn.

Your 'Christmas Present' is fired and ready for years of dependable service.

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LsFarm
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Post Sat. Dec. 21, 2013 11:48 pm

My hopper. The angle of the hopper bottom is not steep enough for the coal to flow on it's own, I lined the wood with sheet aluminum, but it needs to be steeper, about 45* it seems is about right.

In the last photo, I don't have the 10" opening cut at the bottom of the square 'funnel' yet.

Greg L
Hopper3.jpg
Hopper2.jpg
Hopper1.jpg

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Carbon12
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Post Sun. Dec. 22, 2013 10:36 am

What are the tubes running through the bin?

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Rob R.
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Post Sun. Dec. 22, 2013 12:03 pm

The coal bin has radiant heat. :D

Pacowy
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Post Sun. Dec. 22, 2013 12:55 pm

I've heard that preheating the combustion air can produce efficiency improvements, but I've never heard of preheating the coal. I guess you really can learn something new every day on the forum. :lol:

Mike

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whistlenut
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Post Sun. Dec. 22, 2013 3:38 pm

Back in 1978 I got a TT load in late November and that is when I did the LSFarm solution. 12 ton in one bin, 11 ton in another. I thought it would thaw quickly without the radiant, but quickly piped up several of the 12" bays and never looked back. I simply ran the return loops through the bays and it worked out perfectly.

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Vampiro
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Post Mon. Dec. 23, 2013 7:25 am

Hi all, thanks for the pictures of the bin. What kind if pitch should I use. Can you give more detailed photos of the bin?, or a sketch?. I have the dog house for the auger on the side.

The boiler has been running great. I have a full fire pot, and everything seems to be going well. The boiler itself throws a lot of heat off. It makes the basement like 88 degrees around the boiler. I will be insulating the boiler to trap in the heat.

I had some large clinkers after the first two days of firing. I had to break them up, and push them out of the rear of the fire pot. The fire did not go out, so I took off the auger belt, and then hand fired it until the boiler had a nice size fire. I then put the belt back on. I also adjusted the ash temperature using the Allen wrench on the grate switch higher, and as of this morning, all was well. I have normal sized clinkers now, opposed to giant ones.

I have red ash coal, and it burns very well. I even took out some pins for the run timer because it holds the fire well. We will be
Getting colder weather soon, so the boiler will be able to stretch its legs once again.

One other issue I had was that the auger tube would get hung up. Nothing was blocking it really, and all of the sudden it would stop, turn over a little, and then rotate once again. Do I need a new gear motor, or is this what it should do if there is a possible jam or something?

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Rob R.
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Post Mon. Dec. 23, 2013 7:55 am

Vampiro wrote:One other issue I had was that the auger tube would get hung up. Nothing was blocking it really, and all of the sudden it would stop, turn over a little, and then rotate once again. Do I need a new gear motor, or is this what it should do if there is a possible jam or something?
That does not sound good. Perhaps one of the bearings the auger rides on has a rough spot in it. I would disconnect the chain and rotate things by hand to check it out. Is the transfer head lubed? Support bearings turn smoothly? Gearbox is full of clean oil and works smoothly?

Watch it closely and see if the belt slips on the gearbox when this happens. A mark on the belt and pulley will make it easy to see.

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titleist1
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Post Mon. Dec. 23, 2013 7:57 am

Vampiro wrote:What kind if pitch should I use.
if you're talking about the slope of the bin walls, 45* seems to work well in mine. I lined the sloped sides with tyvek to make it slippery since I had a roll of that on hand.

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Vampiro
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Post Mon. Dec. 23, 2013 11:04 am

Got off the phone with Axeman. They want 600 for a new gear box motor drive thing. They don't have Euclid replacements. Does anyone know the final rpm the chain drive spins at, and what gear motor would work for it?

I am going to have mine rebuilt when it goes, but it would be nice to have a replacement. It was designed to slip, and does but goes back to feeding. It has plenty of oil. So we shall see.

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whistlenut
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Post Mon. Dec. 23, 2013 2:07 pm

25 to 1 on 260's, and 50 to 1 on 130's. Don't be shocked at the replacement cost for the gearbox.......and I would go for the new gear-motor setup vs the twisted belt. The Ohio Gear ones you can get parts, but the Euclid models need a complete replacement....or go to the new electric gear-motor replacement. The part is good for 40 years at least, so the changeover is kinda a no brainer. The twisted belt still works very well, but I have not seen or heard of the auger stopping, then starting again. (Motor original? 1/2 hp or a 1/4 hp replacement) Look things over closely and see it the drive pulley is slipping or the auger is somehow caught. I recommend removing the chain and check rotation. It should be free, unless something is obstructing. I HAVE seen the twisted belt slip who some over-zealous fellow fills the blower shaft bearing mount chamber toooooooooo full of gear oil., and it simply runs out all over the twisted belt....and floor. :shock: :shock: :o
Last edited by whistlenut on Mon. Dec. 23, 2013 2:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Vampiro
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Location: Transylvania

Post Mon. Dec. 23, 2013 2:24 pm

The belt does not slip. The gear rocks back and forth, and then starts again and feeds the boiler. I took the belt off and it spins freely. The rollers spin fine and everything is greased.

25:1 would mean 69 rpm based upon the reduction. How many teeth are on the auger, and then the little gear. That then would give us a slower rpm for the auger itself of which I don't know. The axeman folks said it was around 48 rpm for the outlet of the reduction gear motor.

I did find a 48rpm output motor for 280 something dollars. The 4z500 speed reducer. 1725-1750 input rpm.

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whistlenut
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Location: Central NH, Concord area

Post Mon. Dec. 23, 2013 2:42 pm

Is the chain loose by any chance and slipping a tooth every now and then? That new belt may be fine, however the gearbox may have been slid back enough to cause a link to drop off, if you had adjusted it to fit the belt.

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Vampiro
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Location: Transylvania

Post Mon. Dec. 23, 2013 4:51 pm

The chain is indeed a little loose.

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Vampiro
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Post Tue. Dec. 24, 2013 5:33 am

The gear is shot, will be ordering a new one. Had to hand fire and ash the boiler. Built up a nice fire pot that should last the day.

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