Replace Old Expansion Tank ?

Stoker Coal Boilers automatically feed the coal and have controls and pumps just like any conventions boiler. They are intended to be used as a primary heat and often have domestic hot water coils as an added bonus. They can be set up independently or in dual sytem with your existing oil/gas boiler. They can accommodate both hot water base board or steam plumbing.
Jeff1491
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Post Sun. Sep. 29, 2013 9:28 am

I have an old style expansion tank without a bladder. Its pretty big, about 3 feet long mounted on ceiling. Just was wondering if I should replace it with the newer style with the bladder. Would this extend the life of my EFM 520 since I wouldn't be adding new water to the system each time I drain it ? Would it be easy to replace, and could I just hang it from ceiling right where the old one is ? Also what size would I need or would I need multiple tanks? ]Thank in advance

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Sting
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Post Sun. Sep. 29, 2013 10:31 am

AS long as the old tank is not leaking and you know ( or learn ) how to maintain it - its fine
When you turn your boiler on -Does it return the favor?
I have finally lost my mind. Don't bother to return it. It wasn't working properly anyway!

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freetown fred
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Post Sun. Sep. 29, 2013 11:37 am

DITTO----If it ain't broke---don't fck with it---there'll be plenty of time for all that in your life time ;) I had an old galvanized tank that finally went south & in my opinion, these new fangled fiberglass things w/ bladder are no comparison function wise
"A people that values it's privileges above it's principals, soon loses both"--Dwight D Eisenhower

rberq
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Post Sun. Sep. 29, 2013 2:55 pm

Not much can go wrong with the old ones. There was one in our house for about 60 years and the only maintenance was to replace the sight glass once, and that was only because somebody managed to hit it and crack it. The old-timer who took care of our heating system for many years, said he wished ALL his customers had that style and he would see fewer problems.

I REALLY wanted to keep the tank when the old oil boiler was replaced with a new one, but the heating guy was bound and determined that it wouldn't work, though he never could quite explain why. He did say he wanted 15 pounds pressure in the new system, and based on its location I think the old tank only provided 9, so I finally let him do it. :(
Simple answers for simple minds.

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Post Sun. Sep. 29, 2013 3:41 pm

I am under the impression that the tank only provides an air cushion and has nothing to do with the pressure in the system other than to absorb the increased pressure when the water is heated. You could put any pressure you wanted, with a tank or without.

Mark (PA)
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Post Sun. Sep. 29, 2013 5:55 pm

I had to replace my older Exp Tank due to Space limitations after adding in my EFM boiler.

I also redid ALL my piping to hook up my Oil and Coal boiler in parallel so I could run either.

The new Air Scoop I installed fit the newer bladder Tanks / saved more space.

All in what you want to an extend too...

rberq
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Post Sun. Sep. 29, 2013 9:26 pm

franco b wrote:I am under the impression that the tank only provides an air cushion and has nothing to do with the pressure in the system other than to absorb the increased pressure when the water is heated.
I think you are right, with the currently-used bladder tanks. My old-style tank sat near the ceiling, upstairs, several feet above the top of the highest cast iron radiator. A pipe entered the tank at the bottom and the tank itself was half full of water. A pipe also exited the tank at the top; that was simply an overflow pipe open to the air at its other end (in the cellar). The pressure came from the total height of water in the system, about 20 feet, so I estimated the pressure at the boiler to be about 9 psi. The pressure within the expansion tank itself, of course, would be very low. With the radiators hot, the water level in the expansion tank was higher than with the radiators cold. System pressure did not change when the water was heated, since the whole system was essentially open to the atmosphere -- unlike the modern closed systems.
franco b wrote:You could put any pressure you wanted, with a tank or without.
Without an adequate tank, when you heat the water, something will give either leak-wise or kaboom-wise.
Simple answers for simple minds.

franco b
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Post Sun. Sep. 29, 2013 10:17 pm

rberq wrote:franco b wrote:
You could put any pressure you wanted, with a tank or without.

Without an adequate tank, when you heat the water, something will give either leak-wise or kaboom-wise.
Of course. I was just making the point that the tank has nothing to do with pressure. Without the tank the relief valve would open. The fact that the tank was half full at 9 pounds is proof that is all your system needs.

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Jeff1491
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Post Mon. Sep. 30, 2013 3:39 pm

Thanks for the info. So I guess I will just keep the old tank since it seems to be working fine.

franco b
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Post Mon. Sep. 30, 2013 3:52 pm

Jeff1491 wrote:Thanks for the info. So I guess I will just keep the old tank since it seems to be working fine.
Yours is a closed system so the water feed has to be shut off periodically and the tank partially drained to allow air into the tank to again act as a cushion for the expanding heated water. When you drain it ,it is when its starts chugging that it lets air back in.

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PRengert
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Post Mon. Sep. 30, 2013 4:21 pm

I replaced mine with a bladder tank. It seems to eliminate the need to bleed the system periodically.

franco b
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Post Mon. Sep. 30, 2013 6:57 pm

That's the reason for it but the old open system did not need draining only check for water level.

kstills
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Post Wed. Oct. 02, 2013 10:28 am

I kept mine and it's been working fine.

Any recommendations for a typical interval between draining the tank? Or does that depend entirely on the system?

franco b
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Location: Kent CT

Post Wed. Oct. 02, 2013 10:53 am

kstills wrote:I kept mine and it's been working fine.

Any recommendations for a typical interval between draining the tank? Or does that depend entirely on the system?
Most realize the tank needs draining when the relief valve starts dripping. Usually once a year is enough. Turn off the water feed and drain the pressure from the tank at which point it will start glugging as air replaces the water. Drain several buckets more at this point.

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Sting
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Post Wed. Oct. 02, 2013 11:03 am

Its a shame how such a simple question can be convoluted by what some folks "think" :mad:

http://websupport.completewatersystems.com/entries/21710656

http://websupport.completewatersystems.com/entrie ... ic-Systems
When you turn your boiler on -Does it return the favor?
I have finally lost my mind. Don't bother to return it. It wasn't working properly anyway!

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