New 110 Blower Setup.
- Flyer5
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- Location: Montrose PA
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Leisure Line WL110
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Oh yea. You probably want me to share. You are looking for -.04to -.05 on top. Adjusted with the baro. Next you want to start off with the block off about 1/2 way on inlet of blower. Open it till you get to -.02 on the base. Warmer weather, you may have to use the rheostat more for the combustion blower when idle. Mine was ok so far but I have a lot of draft even in summer so I will have to wait to say for sure.
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- Location: Bridgeton, RI
- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 350
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Care to share, Dave??Flyer5 wrote:Yep.plumber wrote:Now that the new blowers are enroute, any suggestions on how to set it up and what to look for?
(Beat me to it)
Last edited by plumber on Fri. Feb. 01, 2013 7:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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- Location: Bridgeton, RI
- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 350
- Other Heating: Biasi B-4 oil boiler
Ok, so everyone is on the same page, where should we be taking the base draft reading from.
I ask because I've seen and heard of many options.
The 460 supplied with the boiler fits right in the hole of the inspection cover. Is that a proper location?
I'm used to taking "over fire" readings, and the manual refers to "the base". I think of the ash pan when I think of the base.
I ask because I've seen and heard of many options.
The 460 supplied with the boiler fits right in the hole of the inspection cover. Is that a proper location?
I'm used to taking "over fire" readings, and the manual refers to "the base". I think of the ash pan when I think of the base.
- Flyer5
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- Posts: 10376
- Joined: Sun. Oct. 21, 2007 4:23 pm
- Location: Montrose PA
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Leisure Line WL110
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Leisure Line Pioneer
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Inspection hole works.plumber wrote:Ok, so everyone is on the same page, where should we be taking the base draft reading from.
I ask because I've seen and heard of many options.
The 460 supplied with the boiler fits right in the hole of the inspection cover. Is that a proper location?
I'm used to taking "over fire" readings, and the manual refers to "the base". I think of the ash pan when I think of the base.
*** SNEAK PEAK **** new fan installed...
My boiler seems to 'like' barely .01 bottom....04 top...fan supply blocked off about 15%...much bigger flame..oddly, always orange, not matter what
2 new thermometers bought today..1 a probe type, 1 magnetic. Put them side by side before the baro, Probe reads 450 degrees..magnetic 200..
My boiler seems to 'like' barely .01 bottom....04 top...fan supply blocked off about 15%...much bigger flame..oddly, always orange, not matter what
2 new thermometers bought today..1 a probe type, 1 magnetic. Put them side by side before the baro, Probe reads 450 degrees..magnetic 200..
- tsb
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- Location: Douglassville, Pa
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Binford 2000
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: LL Pioneer top vent
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Saey Hanover II
- Baseburners & Antiques: Grander Golden Oak , Glenwood # 6
- Coal Size/Type: All of them
I'd like to see a picture of the grate burning at full fire.
I know the door has to be open to do this and that changes
the characteristics of the burn, but I would like to see it anyway.
I know the door has to be open to do this and that changes
the characteristics of the burn, but I would like to see it anyway.
Working on it!..I need to take a fire brick out first..and right now that would mean a charred hand!..loltsb wrote:I'd like to see a picture of the grate burning at full fire.
I know the door has to be open to do this and that changes
the characteristics of the burn, but I would like to see it anyway.
I could also take off the front plate..but at the moment I am to lazy to do so..
Stay tuned!
- tsb
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- Stoker Coal Boiler: Binford 2000
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: LL Pioneer top vent
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Saey Hanover II
- Baseburners & Antiques: Grander Golden Oak , Glenwood # 6
- Coal Size/Type: All of them
How do you light the stoker without direct access ?
Well.....usually I leave 1 brick out...but with this current situation with the cold weather I put in back in....didnt want to leave anything to chance....so usually if needed I could use that space to light.tsb wrote:How do you light the stoker without direct access ?
OR...you can take the front plate out...just 4 bolts, and light it that way...
Hey Dave!....Any way to get a swing door on there now???
- Flyer5
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- Stoker Coal Boiler: Leisure Line WL110
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Your over fire pressure is too hi. You are pushing heat out the stack. If the air moves to fast you wont catch it. Stay between -.02 -.03. BTW how many sq ft is that shack?stoker_RI wrote:Well.....usually I leave 1 brick out...but with this current situation with the cold weather I put in back in....didnt want to leave anything to chance....so usually if needed I could use that space to light.tsb wrote:How do you light the stoker without direct access ?
OR...you can take the front plate out...just 4 bolts, and light it that way...
Hey Dave!....Any way to get a swing door on there now???
Dave...I tried what you said...I very closely observed changes..Flyer5 wrote: Your over fire pressure is too hi. You are pushing heat out the stack. If the air moves to fast you wont catch it. Stay between -.02 -.03. BTW how many sq ft is that shack?
Now I have a probe type thermometer inserted into the flue pipe as I mentioned above, and the temp readings compared to a magnetic type are much different, so some of you may think my flu temp is very high..
OK..so at initial settings, at full burn my flue temp before the baro was about 405. My air supply was blocked off about 15%, I had an over the fire draft at .01 and a draft in the flue at .05. Now at these readings, with one zone calling, at 20 degrees outside, my boiler was maintaining temp and even rising, and my system return water was at 120.
To try to get the base draft as you suggested, I played with the damper on the new fan until I was just pushing .02 in the base.
What I noticed was that my flue temps began to rise up to 410 degrees, and my boiler temps and return water temps began to fall! I opened up the baro door a little, bringing the flue draft down a bit...this had no effect on flue temp or the other variables...
So..I went back to the damper and began to open it up more again...and I watched my flue temps begin to fall ! I opened it up a little more, eventually back to about where I started, and I watched my flue temp drop to 380 again, and my boiler water temps began to rise as did my return water temp..
SO..I don't have an explanation for the dynamics of that..maybe someone else does? I recently cleaned the manometer over the fire..maybe its accuracy is in question? Or maybe the position of it matters? The rubber hose on it is a little tighter than Id like to see bit is not kinked in any way..IDK..
BTW...I want to replace that rubber hose..do you think that is something I should be able to get locally? Off hand, do you know the inside dimensions of the hose I need?
And a note: I DO after all, have a nice blue flame...I removed a fire brick and was able to view the fire through the ash door...apparently viewing the fire through the glass is deceptive...reflecting the orange glow of the hot bed of coals
- johnniecuse
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- Location: Lafayette NY
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Ok... After much consternation, the new blower is installed and working beautifully! Thanks to Matt for all the phone support.
The fire is considerably larger thus increasing the performance of the boiler.
My settings are:
LL 160 HL 180 ldf 15
17 turns on the feed screw with a perfect idle fire.
Draft -.04
Base -.02
2700 sq ft ranch house is at 72
The fire is considerably larger thus increasing the performance of the boiler.
My settings are:
LL 160 HL 180 ldf 15
17 turns on the feed screw with a perfect idle fire.
Draft -.04
Base -.02
2700 sq ft ranch house is at 72