Coalpail.com Forum

I adjusted mine down the whole way, initially my bolts were 3/4 to the top of the slot now I have them the all the way down and did a dry run no fire just running coal and the bed of coal still is close to 2" or so. It is a little thinner but not what I thought it would. Obviously when its lit with a fire I will know what I need but I heat a 30x56 shop and a 30x70 house so my demand really fluctulates a lot throught out the season. In the fall and spring I only need about 2" of fire to maintain my heat and when its really cold I run about a 2" ash big swing throught out the heating season so I have to adjust my red nut often.

Wiz again thanks for all the pics and tips. The information is great and I will keep you guys posted when I fire the beast up!!!

James

Tinman... last night I email Keystoker about throat strap. Questions ask. Would lowering strap help with unburnt coal. How thick should coal on grate be? Today reply was its set at factory to burn rice or buck. Proper setting of rednut is 10 turns to achieve it, turn to max then backoff 10 turns. Note... mine from factory is set at lowest point, bolts are all the way down. coal is 2 inches thick on grate.

@ WIZ: did you ever play with the throat plate height? Mine is set at lowest point and was thinking about raising it to see what result it has, if any.....

Carbon12 wrote:@ WIZ: did you ever play with the throat plate height? Mine is set at lowest point and was thinking about raising it to see what result it has, if any.....

That's actually the only thing I never tweak to see results. Throat plate appears to be at lowest point on mine. Raising it might push coal over sides of grates.

Keystoker says that 1.5 to 2"s the best setting to start at, and I've always seen them set at 1.5" when you go to clean one for the end of season folks. I played with added height,(2") AND here is a thought: Better free up those 2 5/16" bolts BEFORE you try something stupid. I've been called to fix a few, and that is NOT FUN....especially with a full hopper. If you can get them out, anti-seize the hell out of the whole area. With the hopper off, you can also look over the 'pusher' mounts and square heat anchor bolts. My .02 says to soak them, and have heat handy if you want to be successful in removing to exchange the shaft, bearing ends, right and left......... When installing a new one, I disassemble the whole rig , even the side plates in the stoker and anti-seize the whole rig. MUCH easier at that time, VS 3 years LATER. Wiz: Great video and presentation, and should be part of the manual from the boys over in the Haven. If you neglect to follow instructions, you and the 'Fire Wrench' will become Fast friends!

Ah,...um,......I think it's working just fine for now! Maybe will play in the spring!!!

Oliver Power wrote back in February that Keystoker should not have done away with the KA-4. For the record, Keystoker relented and introduced the KAA-4-1 this past summer.

Just posting here as a method to save the thread for later viewing.

Nothing to see here folks..... move along......

Thanks, Wiz for this thread!

For a newbie like me this post was very helpful and much appreciated!

is there any secret to moving that rod to disable the action so you get the blower but no feed? I have a hell of a time disengaging and then reengaging it guess I am not strong enough.

GaryFerg wrote:is there any secret to moving that rod to disable the action so you get the blower but no feed? I have a hell of a time disengaging and then reengaging it guess I am not strong enough.

Watch the cycle. Get it while the rod is pushed towards the disengaging handle and push away from the boiler while turning, helps a bit.

I've been kicking around the idea of a piece of pipe that slips over the end when needed for leverage.

Maybe some others have found some good tips?

CoalisCoolxWarm wrote:

GaryFerg wrote:is there any secret to moving that rod to disable the action so you get the blower but no feed? I have a hell of a time disengaging and then reengaging it guess I am not strong enough.

Watch the cycle. Get it while the rod is pushed towards the disengaging handle and push away from the boiler while turning, helps a bit.

I've been kicking around the idea of a piece of pipe that slips over the end when needed for leverage.

Maybe some others have found some good tips?

Exactly like he said. I like to wear a leather palm work glove so I don’t pinch my hand accidentally.

If you still have trouble try yelling “mother***er” That sometimes helps.

New ka6 last year. Coal won't drop off. Last year Cornwall rice, this year Reading rice. same problem. Air shutter 1/2-3/4 Factory says problem is low fusion coal. Same excuse last year. The owner got soaked by the installer, plumbed wrong controlled wrong, told it was normal for the oil burner to come on . I think it is somewhat undersized, but it should burn right . Any ideas? the guy's wife is disgusted. I love my EFM. BoboK.

bobok wrote:New ka6 last year. Coal won't drop off. Last year Cornwall rice, this year Reading rice. same problem. Air shutter 1/2-3/4 Factory says problem is low fusion coal. Same excuse last year. The owner got soaked by the installer, plumbed wrong controlled wrong, told it was normal for the oil burner to come on . I think it is somewhat undersized, but it should burn right . Any ideas? the guy's wife is disgusted. I love my EFM. BoboK.

What do you mean "Coal won't drop off" ???