Wl110

Speaking of "spoiled"...I am spoiled for heating up down and all around my home to a nice even 72*

BTW: What would most installer think of us stoker coal boiler guys w/ boilers still cranking away that were built back in the 40's, 50's, 60's etc.???
Many installers are out replacing gas and oil units that they themselves have installed not too many years ago.
Not a bad gig if you want it.

When you mentioned an 'installer' I was wondering what sales pitch you would get.

You are his worst nightmare, a knowledgeable customer that won't need a new unit in 10 years!!

Would you guys recommend a hvac specialist or a plumber to install the boiler? Honestly a lot of the work is plumbing related, so I feel a plumber could do it. I could probably do the installation myself, but I feel like it would take a good deal of time and studying for me to tackle it myself.

Installers.......

Listen, real world knowledge.

Last year, I burned 6 tons of coal in the coldest winter we've had in ages, and kept my house at an even 71deg F. Total cost for the year was 1590.00 dollars, which was ~200 dollars less then my last combined oil and electric bill for a much milder winter when I l heated the main part of the house to 50F with oil and moved electric heaters around to spot heat rooms I was using.

It is true that during the coldest days I was dumping ash on a daily basis, and adding coal every two days (you do NOT want the fire to go out, lol). However, that has not been a chore that makes me lose any sleep, because I am always warm when I get back inside.

Never doubt that you are making a wise investment in comfort, reliability, ease of use and maintanence and giving jobs to people in the US and taking them from folks in the ME.

So keep looking for a plumber or an HVAC guy who has an open mind and good experience with solid fuel appliances, and you'll never regret your purchase.

Thanks Kstills, that was some very good advice. The guy who called me back from that company was much more accepting of doing the installation, and will be coming out the 20th to take a look and give me an estimate. I am also going to contact a company that deals with alternative heating and see about getting an estimate from them so I can compare. I called the hvac company that cleans and inspects my furnace currently and it took them 8+ hours to get back to me, just to sell me its not worth doing it and they won't even consider it. Whatever happened to work is work? My parents own a business that employs 10 people and we are swamped most of the time but we don't turn down the littlest jobs, even if somebody else bought the product and wanted us to install it.

X,I'm a complete Moron,but I've gotta ask: Doesn't the Dealer that your buying this LL from have any recommended Installers available that have put the little Heat Animals in for other customers that they've sold to? You know,Guys with a Track record that don't think Coal's Dead.....I'm missing something here-Help!

I don't have any dealers close to me, the closest one is all but 30 miles away, my only option is to buy it from the factory.

The more I look over the schematics, I feel like I could do the majority of the install myself. The plumbing seems rather simple, but the wiring seems a bit complex. (I work on sewage pumps and wiring daily, and also have background with running new wires from panel boxes). If my train of thought is correct, wouldn't I simply unhook the zone controls from my existing furnace and hook them up to the coal boiler, then wire one of those zones into the dump zone control of my boiler? If it will be this simple then I feel pretty confidence in tackling it myself.

You're in Extreme Luck-Peruse these pages on this ongoing install. There's some Solid Guys giving this Man A Hand on the very issue you're concerned about! Take a look,and see if you feel good about your Game Plan! WL110 Plumbed in...Now on to the Wiring. Again,these Guys are Hauling The Mail when it comes down to the Nitty - Gritty on going towards first fire!

I wanted to give some pictures to help answer some questions on my situation. Tried to get multiple angles, but the room is tiny so it was pretty hard.
Here is the area I plan on installing. Between the oil gun on the furnace and the hot water heater I have 48" If it came down to it, the hot water heater could be moved further over. Between the back wall and the shelves on the furthest wall I have 7'. Pictures of current control panels for existing furnace with the 3 zone controls. Existing boiler and plumbing configurations
.

Looking over a couple things, I measured to the bottom of my thimble and its only 58", not going to work, one option is to powervent then. Only other option would be to take out the existing boiler and set the wl110 in its place, it would then have to 90 immediately out of the boiler and into the thimble.

If I use a powervent, I could keep the oil boiler completely in tact and be able to use it while away.

If I tear the boiler out, I wouldn't have to do to much plumbing, but I would have to do all the work of removing the current boiler, and then re installing if I ever sold the house.

Plumbing wise running parallel with my boiler, would this schematic work?

Specifications

Standard Features:
 54” High X 28” W X 34” D
 Hopper Capacity 200 #
 3 GPM Domestic Hot Water Coil
 Flue Vent size 6” top Exit
 Weight 500#
 Water Capacity 12 Gallons
 Input BTUH Coal 110,000
 Input BTUH Oil 165,000
 Input BTUH Natural Gas or Propane 50,000 – 175,000 Depending on size of orifice drilled

Optional Features
 5 GPM Domestic Hot Water Coil
 Hopper Capacity 320# (Dimensions with this option 54”hX28”WX43”D)
 Flue Clean Out (Dimensions with this option 63”HX28”WX34”D)
 Natural Gas or Propane Burner Unit

It looks like I will be power venting then, In honest option that is actually the easiest way to go for me.

Chisel, hammer, grunt, new thimble higher in the wall.....

That easy, huh? Another issue though, I would have the optional flue cleanout attached, I assume that counts as one 90, it would then have to do another 90 to go towards the chimney, then another 90 to go into the thimble, that is the use of 3 90s. In the manual it says no more than 2 90s.

I could however turn the wl110 so the back is facing the existing boiler, but the the problem arises that I would not have 48" of clearance to my water heater (that could be moved if push comes to shove)