Hi, guys. I just finished the plumbing for my new KAA2 and I am having an issue with my combustion motor(the squirrel cage motor) not running. I have two zones set up and both my circulators pump water when a request for heat is made, so I believe they are correct. I am sure I did something wrong, as my auxiliary fan runs constantly (the little white one), but I think the squirrel cage fan should be running constantly instead.
Most everything was pre-wired from the factory, which was nice, so all I had to do was wire from the junction box they provided to the stoker unit and fans. In the junction box there were 4 wires marked with a piece of tape labeled "to unit", one white, one red, and two black wires twisted together. The back of the stoker unit has 4 wires, two black, one red, and one white. From the junction box to the back of the unit, I went white to white, red to red, and then the the two black that are together to the two black on the back of the unit. What did I do wrong? I have seen a few different wiring diagrams online, but I can't see what's wrong. Any help is appreciated.
SOLVED! For anyone with the same confusion, from your junction box to stoker unit and fans, go red from red jct to red on stoker, white from jct to white AND one black on stoker, then from black jct to other black on stoker.
KAA2 Wiring Help (SOLVED)
- Rob R.
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The big blower only runs when there is a heat call. If you don't have your zone control connected to the triple aquastat, the big blower will only run with the low limit setting is reached.
- Rob R.
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- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby Jr
You should have power going from the B1 terminal on the aquastat to the black lead on the stoker motor.
Does the big blower NEVER run? Or just not run when your zones are calling for heat?
Does the big blower NEVER run? Or just not run when your zones are calling for heat?
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Hi, Rob. The big blower never comes on, but when the thermostats call for heat both circulators pump properly.
B1, the red wire goes from my aquastat to my timer, then into my junction box which you can see in the images. All of this was factory wired. I go out of my junction box from the red wire to the back of the unit and connect to the red wire here (I used a black wire for this, because I didn't have red wire. I taped it so I could differentiate it from the other black wires. I have also verified that I did not get my wires confused.) I then go from the two black wires in the junction box to the two black wires on the unit, then I do the same for my white neutral.
Thanks for your help!
B1, the red wire goes from my aquastat to my timer, then into my junction box which you can see in the images. All of this was factory wired. I go out of my junction box from the red wire to the back of the unit and connect to the red wire here (I used a black wire for this, because I didn't have red wire. I taped it so I could differentiate it from the other black wires. I have also verified that I did not get my wires confused.) I then go from the two black wires in the junction box to the two black wires on the unit, then I do the same for my white neutral.
Thanks for your help!
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- Wiz
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Wondering why there is 3 black wires on image 4 Per Ka-6 Stoker motor red wire to black.. white on white..... Secondary fan black on black then white on white
- Wiz
- Member
- Posts: 926
- Joined: Sun. Nov. 27, 2011 8:45 pm
- Location: Tannersville Pa
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker Ka 6
- Coal Size/Type: Casey Junk Coal :(
common on a motor has nothing to do with the neutral or common, that is terminology used in home wiring. Either black wire coming from stoker can be used for neutral or hot. When looking at your image that's what caught my eye onto why you were wiring both together.farrell2k wrote:You need to paint one of the black wires on the back of the stoker white and run it to neutral white. They would save a lot of confusion by just giving two white neutrals on the stoker!