110 Boiler Feed Screw Settings

Stoker Coal Boilers automatically feed the coal and have controls and pumps just like any conventions boiler. They are intended to be used as a primary heat and often have domestic hot water coils as an added bonus. They can be set up independently or in dual sytem with your existing oil/gas boiler. They can accommodate both hot water base board or steam plumbing.
plumber
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Post Tue. Oct. 09, 2012 9:34 pm

Those of you running the 110 boiler, what are you burning and what is your feed screw setting?
I was burning Blashak at 15 1/2 turns in, now I'm burning Jeddo and I'm getting burning coal in the pan at 10.
Ernie

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Rob R.
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Post Tue. Oct. 09, 2012 9:53 pm

Does your stoker have an air adjustment?

plumber
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Post Tue. Oct. 09, 2012 10:27 pm

No air adjustment, just feed rate.
Ernie

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Flyer5
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Post Wed. Oct. 10, 2012 7:35 am

We are looking at adding an air adjustment, but the same thing can be accomplished by blocking off some of the inlet on the combustion blower with foil tape if need be.Kinda crude but works. Dave
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Rob R.
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Post Wed. Oct. 10, 2012 8:21 am

If the air is already "full throttle", you have no choice but to reduce the feed until you have some ash at the end of the grate. More than once I have heard that coal from the Hazleton area can be exceptionally hard and burner slower then you are accustomed to.

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Post Wed. Oct. 10, 2012 8:42 am

Different coal may require different feed adjustment. It shouldn't be a lot. I have tried Reading and Blaschak in mine very similar results. Did your draft change at all. That may have more effect on how fast the coal burns. My adjustment is in only about 3/8" and I get a full grate.
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plumber
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Post Wed. Oct. 10, 2012 9:16 am

My draft seems to have increased a bit, but it is colder now. This stuff from Jeddo seems way hotter than Blashak. I'm liking the lack of ash in the pan as well. I've got the screw in 13 now, seems to have settled down. At least it went through the night without going out. I really don't want to have to mess with the timer.
One other thing, it may just be me, but it seems the fire is further to the rear than I'm used to seeing. How much fire should be on the grate?
Ernie

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Post Wed. Oct. 10, 2012 10:01 am

plumber wrote:My draft seems to have increased a bit, but it is colder now. This stuff from Jeddo seems way hotter than Blashak. I'm liking the lack of ash in the pan as well. I've got the screw in 13 now, seems to have settled down. At least it went through the night without going out. I really don't want to have to mess with the timer.
One other thing, it may just be me, but it seems the fire is further to the rear than I'm used to seeing. How much fire should be on the grate?
When you are calling for heat it should be full with no hot coals going to the ashpan. Anytime you mess with the feed screw you are changing the characteristics of the timer settings. Which is probably why you lost the fire. Once you set the feed screw you should rarely have to change it. Once it is set then the timers should be adjusted to maintain the idle.
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plumber
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Post Wed. Oct. 10, 2012 10:05 am

I didn't lose the fire :)
I was saying I was glad I didn't, it went overnight with no calls for heat and idled along nicely.
What my question is:
How far to the rear (towards the hopper) should the fire be?
As well, how much ash should I have at the front?
Ernie

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Flyer5
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Post Wed. Oct. 10, 2012 10:14 am

plumber wrote:I didn't lose the fire :)
I was saying I was glad I didn't, it went overnight with no calls for heat and idled along nicely.
What my question is:
How far to the rear (towards the hopper) should the fire be?
As well, how much ash should I have at the front?
I should not go to far behind the last row of holes.

You should have 1/2" or close to it in the front.
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Post Wed. Oct. 10, 2012 11:20 am

The way I found works the best is just put the timers close enough so you don't lose the fire, not worrying to much about dumping into dump zone in the beginning. Then take your time to get the screw adjuster set properly checking it through a few cycles then once you are happy with the full grate of fire consider that fixed and not to be touched. It is only for adjusting the full fire nothing else.
Only after the full fire adjustment is stable. Then I will proceed to adjust for the idle fire using only the timers, once it is close the rheostats can be used for very fine tuning.
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You know when people say it was "better back in my day"?

They were right.

plumber
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Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 350
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Post Wed. Oct. 10, 2012 1:02 pm

It should not go to far behind the last row of holes.

You should have 1/2" or close to it in the front.[/quote]

Seeing I have a fire going, I really have no idea where the holes are. Right now my fire is just to the end of the first fire brick after the hopper.
Ernie

Feet and knees together

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Post Wed. Oct. 10, 2012 3:52 pm

I'm glad to see this thread, because I have a similar type problem.

I just took delivery on a new order of coal, and I'm starting to get a ash dam form at the middle/front of the grate. It idles fine, but when I get a heat call and the stoker goes full out, the fresh coal builds up behind the damn and starts to spill over the sides of the grate. The real negative effect is that the fire is not as hot (it burns more like wood then coal) and it takes forever to hit the LL on the aquastat to restart the circulator.

My setting hasnt changed (I put tape on the screw to make sure it was always exactly the same spot) but I'm thinking I'll have to change it to run slower.

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Post Wed. Oct. 10, 2012 3:59 pm

Your 'slag' dam sounds very strange. Is it possible that there is a fused piece of coal causing that back-up. That problem is unheard of, so when you can, shut it down briefly and clean off the grate, remove it if necessary and make sure the holes are all free, and keep a few small drill sizes handy to drill out anything plated with slag. Keep us posted, your situation is unique.
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kstills
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Post Wed. Oct. 10, 2012 4:02 pm

whistlenut wrote:Your 'slag' dam sounds very strange. Is it possible that there is a fused piece of coal causing that back-up. That problem is unheard of, so when you can, shut it down briefly and clean off the grate, remove it if necessary and make sure the holes are all free, and keep a few small drill sizes handy to drill out anything plated with slag. Keep us posted, your situation is unique.
That may be the case, as I had a restart once I had the pipe work finally installed. It was running without an issue up to then, and I've pulled half the coal pile (coals and unburnt) into the ash pan to try to fix the problem, but I have not checked the holes with the unit off.

Saturday is coming, so I guess a full cleanout is in order. :)

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