To Re-light Or Not to Re-light AHS 130 for the Summer

As Rob mentioned, the L4006A is not part of (not a side of) the dual aquastat L4081B (the latter of which is in fact installed upside down). The L4006A is all by itself, and if looking at the S130 from the rear (from the motor end) it is the one sitting at the upper right (whereas the L4081B is located at the upper left). There are two sides (two independent aquastats) within the L4081B (one being for the dump zone and the other for the boilers "failsafe" high temperature safety limit). The L4006A is a single aquastat.

I have mine set as follows:

L4006A = 180 degrees (turns the fan (or blower) motor on at 170 and shuts it off at 180)
L4081B high limit side = 200 degrees (turns the fan motor off at 200 degrees if the L4006A fails to turn it off at 180)
L4081B dump zone side = 210 degrees (opens the dump zone valve and turns on the circulator at 210 degrees)

lsayre wrote:L4006A = 180 degrees (turns the fan (or blower) motor on at 170 and shuts it off at 180)
L4081B high limit side = 200 degrees (turns the fan motor off at 200 degrees if the L4006A fails to turn it off at 180)
L4081B dump zone side = 210 degrees (opens the dump zone valve and turns on the circulator at 210 degrees)

These were my winter settings. Do you just leave your system set like this year round. I lowered mine to 155 for the summer as per another member's suggestion.

I have not changed my settings.

although a bit of an initial investment, heat pump water heaters are a good choice for domestic water heating, especially if one has a basement, cellar, crawlspace. the heat is free, only using a little electricity to compress it.. I like shutting off all fossil fuel burners in the warm months. I own several, in different buildings, electric bill did not raise noticeably in any of them, but noticed savings on fossil fuel. just my experience, if you really want cheap energy.

Set your S130 to run between 180-190, I bet the draft will improve and the boiler will run more often to maintain temperature.

Rob R. wrote:Set your S130 to run between 180-190, I bet the draft will improve and the boiler will run more often to maintain temperature.

Thanks Rob, I will try that. Still think I need a LOGO timer though. The unit went out again last night after having huge bed of coals. I tried to re light it this AM with out checking the manometer. BIG Mistake. Basement full of fumes!!! The manometer read -.03 not good. Wife is pissed, wants this resolved! Can't say I blame her. I am not having so much fun either.

-0.03" sounds quite adequate to me. I'm baffled by your problems. Could there be a blockage somewhere? Where are you seeing the -0.03" mano reading? Where is your manometer take-off located? Mine is only a few inches above the boiler.

Is your sight port cover plate springing open nicely when the fan shuts off? Is it slamming shut tightly when the fan comes on?

lsayre wrote:-0.03" sounds quite adequate to me. I'm baffled by your problems. Could there be a blockage somewhere? Where are you seeing the -0.03" mano reading? Where is your manometer take-off located? Mine is only a few inches above the boiler.

Is your sight port cover plate springing open nicely when the fan shuts off? Is it slamming shut tightly when the fan comes on?

The port cover plate does spring open nicely when the blower stops and set up tightly when it is running. My interpretation of -.03 reading is that a draft is coming down the chimney versus sucking up the chimney and out. My manometer is connected by way of a small piece of break line tubing located 8 and 3/4 inches above the unit on the only section of vertical pipe. The manometer is reading -.01 right now. (Unit is not running) I thought most efficient running was around .04. I thought my vent pipes might be blocked with fly ash as I have everything taped off to try and increase my draft. Therefore I have not cleaned them in 3 months. When the smoke started pouring out of the pipes, I ripped off all the high heat tape from my barometric damper and started checking the pipe. There was some fly ash build up but less then 1/2 an inch. That's when I checked the manometer. Basements file up with smoke quick ya know!!

If there is blockage I don't know how it could have happened so quickly as I have been running the unit consistently, albeit with frequent re lights, since January.

It sounds like you have a serious problem with you chimney.

Rob R. wrote:It sounds like you have a serious problem with you chimney.

If what he is reporting as a negative 0.03" is instead a positive 0.03" reading, then I fully agree that this is a chimney problem.

Have you checked the cyclonic separator for blockage?

Yes it is a negative reading. I took the stove pipe apart completely and there may have been 1/2 in of fly ash. I checked the masonry chimney as well clear all the way to the heavens. The cyclonic separator I clear as well. I am trying to relight it now but I don't hold much hope. The manometer is at dead zero right now. Better then negative 3 I guess.

NWBuilder wrote:Yes it is a negative reading. I took the stove pipe apart completely and there may have been 1/2 in of fly ash. I checked the masonry chimney as well clear all the way to the heavens. The cyclonic separator I clear as well. I am trying to relight it now but I don't hold much hope. The manometer is at dead zero right now. Better then negative 3 I guess.

Zero is far worse than negative 0.03. Negative values indicate a low pressure condition (I.E., vacuum, or chimney draw).

How does the height of the chimney compare to the rest of the home?

It is a center chimney, the house is approximately 34 feet high and the chimney rises 3 feet or so above that. The lot is cleared to 40 feet to the west 60 to the east and south and 400 to the north.

That makes no sense at all, a chimney like that should draft exceptionally well. Is there plenty of fresh air available to the boiler room? Is there anything else tied into that chimney?