1948 Axeman 130

Thanks ,That should help .I will weld in a 4" hub . Probably won't be using it but like I said I would like to have it there just in case . Dave

Here s my progress so far . I blocked off the domestic coil area I really don't need it because my other boiler has one or I may use a heat exchanger .Not being sure of the age of my coil and the damage that is caused with that design just not worth keeping it . I am getting ready to assemble the fan end ,new bushing pressed in . One question I have is what is used to seal the base to the boiler . I was going to use high temp permatex but that just seems like it will just make a mess . Another issue I have is the flange on the fan end of the boiler hits the flange of the base before the boiler seals on the base about a 1/8" between the two . There isn't supposed to be another plate in there ,is there ? Well have a happy Thanksgiving Everyone . Dave

The boiler is sealed to the base with rope seal, just like on a door of a wood/coal stove. I used 1/2" wide flat rope, and glued it in place with RTV. You don't have to glue it in place if you have help setting the boiler on the base. I did it just to keep the rope in place.

the rope will seal up most of the 1/8" gap you are refering to, and the bolts will pull the center of the base up against the boiler to take up the rest of the gap. Mine had a few gaps too, but pulled up just fine with the bolts, just do it a little at a time, and use good hardware.

The fan box on my boiler had drop in bushings, I guess the fan box is different for the 130M. Mine had a little play, but nothing excessive, just don't tighten belts tight, like the instal direction say. My fan dirve belt is just slightly floppy, you don't need more tension. a tight belt will burn up the bushings.

Take a look at the lower lip of the burn pot/tube, just under the inspection port. Mine was pretty badly erroded from heat and fire. I had to rebuild the lip with a strip of Stainless Steel. This lip had been replaced once before in the previous 57 years, so it must be a common wear point.

It is looking good. I bet you can't wait to get it up and running.

Greg L

Happy Thanksgiving

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LsFarm wrote:The boiler is sealed to the base with rope seal, just like on a door of a wood/coal stove. I used 1/2" wide flat rope, and glued it in place with RTV. You don't have to glue it in place if you have help setting the boiler on the base. I did it just to keep the rope in place.

the rope will seal up most of the 1/8" gap you are refering to, and the bolts will pull the center of the base up against the boiler to take up the rest of the gap. Mine had a few gaps too, but pulled up just fine with the bolts, just do it a little at a time, and use good hardware.

The fan box on my boiler had drop in bushings, I guess the fan box is different for the 130M. Mine had a little play, but nothing excessive, just don't tighten belts tight, like the instal direction say. My fan dirve belt is just slightly floppy, you don't need more tension. a tight belt will burn up the bushings.

Take a look at the lower lip of the burn pot/tube, just under the inspection port. Mine was pretty badly erroded from heat and fire. I had to rebuild the lip with a strip of Stainless Steel. This lip had been replaced once before in the previous 57 years, so it must be a common wear point.

It is looking good. I bet you can't wait to get it up and running.

Greg L

Happy Thanksgiving

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Thanks for the help .The bushing I was referring to was the one in the cover plate between the fan box and fan . There was none there .There should be one in the cover correct ? I am just trying to get it together so its not scattered all over . I may take my wood boiler out and put it in just feeding from a 55gal drum to test it out . If it works fine I will save the wood for next yr . It will be seasoned better anyway . My wood / coal boiler can be disconnected from the system fairly easily . The A-A does seem like a pain in the rear to get lit though ,but I guess once its going its going . Dave

NO there is no bushing in the fan plate, you must center the shaft in the plate opening when you install the fan shaft/box. There must be a gap around the fan shaft!!. The fan and shaft wobble a bit when they accelerate and decellerate and must have clearance.
In the install directions found here: Post by LsFarm - Axeman-Anderson Manuals and Parts List you will find the instructions for this adjustment. Once you mount everything up, you will see that the 1/8" gap around the fan shaft is needed. No gasses seep out this gap, the slight draft pulls air through the gap when the motor is not running.

I would also read the install instructions about the paint. I think the silver paint acts as a heat reflective layer to keep the boiler heat in the boiler. I did an experiment many years ago with painting a radiator flat black and one silver, the flat black one radiated more heat, and had lower water temps inside than the silver painted one. Something to think about.

Take care, the boiler is looking good!! Inspect the fan itself for cracks, mine had a crack that needed to be TIG welded.

Greg L

LsFarm wrote:NO there is no bushing in the fan plate, you must center the shaft in the plate opening when you install the fan shaft/box. There must be a gap around the fan shaft!!. The fan and shaft wobble a bit when they accelerate and decellerate and must have clearance.
In the install directions found here: Post by LsFarm - Axeman-Anderson Manuals and Parts List you will find the instructions for this adjustment. Once you mount everything up, you will see that the 1/8" gap around the fan shaft is needed. No gasses seep out this gap, the slight draft pulls air through the gap when the motor is not running.

I would also read the install instructions about the paint. I think the silver paint acts as a heat reflective layer to keep the boiler heat in the boiler. I did an experiment many years ago with painting a radiator flat black and one silver, the flat black one radiated more heat, and had lower water temps inside than the silver painted one. Something to think about.

Take care, the boiler is looking good!! Inspect the fan itself for cracks, mine had a crack that needed to be TIG welded.

Greg L

Thanks , I thought about flipping the color scheme . The fan does have a small crack right through the center of a weld, it will be going down to get tig welded this weekend at a friends . I only have a mig and stick so I havent messed with it . I was courious why the cover didnt have a bushing , I had one in my bunch of spare parts and thought that was where it went . Dave

Hi Dave, I too looked long and hard at that gap around the fan shaft, but after reading the install directions, and talking with Yanche about the same shaft/plate hole in his AHS 130, decided that it was designed that way... Sort of seems silly to seal all the things we seal then leave that gap around the shaft huh?? But it work great.

Have a great Thanksgiving.

Greg L

Guys,
You're both right. There is no bushing in this part of the boiler. To put one in could score up the shaft. There's more than enough draft to handle the small air leak.
And by the way, Flyer5, you're right about the paint. One should never paint something with metallic paint (such as a radiator) with gold, brass, aluminum, etc. paint. It does in fact, reflect the heat back in the heat emitting unit. Hence, radiators should be painted a flat, enamel paint but boilers most certainly can and should be painted aluminum. Nice catch! You wouldn't think it would make a big difference but the paint can cut as much as 20% off the radiating ability of a unit. Not only that but aluminum paint can stand a bit more heat than conventional paints with the exception of engine paint of course.
Nice job on that boiler by the way!! I just love those things! Right now I have 3 in service that I take care of for customers and the possibility of yet another very soon. I also have 2 Keystokers out there. No EFM though. I wish I did. I'd love to see one in action - stoking and bringing the fire up like I remember some of those old underfeed monster I used to look after.
Does anyone know where a person can buy one of the old ash removers that they used to install? I remember them as being similar to a stoker but they had a "sweep" arm under the retort that funneled the ashes into a screw that removed them and put them in the ash can for you all in one firing of the stoker. I have a customer looking for one for a boiler I have to in stall.
Thanks All
Doug

Switched it already . The Keystoker will be going in next week I hope . The Axeman will be for next year . Dave

Show off! Of course I'm just jealous, nice looking couple of stokers ya got there.

You better put one in fast, it looks like those two are trying to figure out how to start the tractor.

coaledsweat wrote:You better put one in fast, it looks like those two are trying to figure out how to start the tractor.

They were actually conspiring against the horses .

Noticed I am missing the mounting plate for the motor . It is a 48z frame I was wondering if anyone here would have an extra laying around , I would buy it from you if you are willing to sell it .And would be much appriceated . AA dosen't seem to sell it seperatly . Thanks Dave

Flyer5 wrote:Noticed I am missing the mounting plate for the motor . It is a 48z frame I was wondering if anyone here would have an extra laying around , I would buy it from you if you are willing to sell it .And would be much appriceated . AA dosen't seem to sell it seperatly . Thanks Dave

are you looking for the motor mount for the AA?

U235a4 wrote:

Flyer5 wrote:Noticed I am missing the mounting plate for the motor . It is a 48z frame I was wondering if anyone here would have an extra laying around , I would buy it from you if you are willing to sell it .And would be much appriceated . AA dosen't seem to sell it seperatly . Thanks Dave

are you looking for the motor mount for the AA?

Sorry,Yes for the A-A it is a 48 y/z frame 1/4 hp motor .I called Marathon they don't sell just the mount without the motor . Dave