EFM Motor Noise

Stoker Coal Boilers automatically feed the coal and have controls and pumps just like any conventions boiler. They are intended to be used as a primary heat and often have domestic hot water coils as an added bonus. They can be set up independently or in dual sytem with your existing oil/gas boiler. They can accommodate both hot water base board or steam plumbing.
kenny007
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Stove/Furnace Make: Stratford, Chappee
Stove/Furnace Model: SC-75
Location: Riverhead NY

Post Thu. Dec. 29, 2011 9:36 am

Hello,
here is a link to a noise my motor is making,
tell me what you think
Thanks Ken



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Rob R.
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Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM DF520
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93
Coal Size/Type: Lehigh Rice
Other Heating: Dad's 1953 EFM Highboy
Location: Chazy, NY

Post Thu. Dec. 29, 2011 9:50 am

The ratchet assembly sounds like it is running slower than normal. Have you ever oiled the motor?

kenny007
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Posts: 63
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Stove/Furnace Make: Stratford, Chappee
Stove/Furnace Model: SC-75
Location: Riverhead NY

Post Thu. Dec. 29, 2011 9:54 am

Hello,
yes I tried that, the feed rate is set to 3 teeth, what do you mean slow??
Thanks Ken

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CoalHeat
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Stoker Coal Boiler: 1959 EFM 350
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Magnafire Mark I
Baseburners & Antiques: Sears Signal Oak 15 & Andes Kitchen Range
Coal Size/Type: Rice and Chestnut
Other Heating: Fisher Fireplace Insert
Location: Stillwater, New Jersey

Post Thu. Dec. 29, 2011 10:12 am

Did you check the oil level in the gear reducer?
My stoker runs faster, at 4 teeth I can't count the clicks, it may just be the video is running slow,
Heating a circa 1832 farmhouse with a Harman Magnafire Mark I & a 1959 EFM 350 (heating DHW).
100% Oil Free!
"It's what we learn after we think we know it all that counts."

kenny007
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Posts: 63
Joined: Sun. Dec. 21, 2008 8:48 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: Stratford, Chappee
Stove/Furnace Model: SC-75
Location: Riverhead NY

Post Thu. Dec. 29, 2011 10:37 am

Hello,
i don't think the video is slow, what would make it run slow? is it running backwards??
Thanks Ken

kenny007
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Posts: 63
Joined: Sun. Dec. 21, 2008 8:48 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: Stratford, Chappee
Stove/Furnace Model: SC-75
Location: Riverhead NY

Post Thu. Dec. 29, 2011 10:39 am


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Rob R.
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Posts: 11367
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Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM DF520
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93
Coal Size/Type: Lehigh Rice
Other Heating: Dad's 1953 EFM Highboy
Location: Chazy, NY

Post Thu. Dec. 29, 2011 10:48 am

With the power off and the drive pawl flipped up, try spinning the fan coupler by hand...does it spin freely?
Wood'nCoal wrote:Did you check the oil level in the gear reducer?
Well?

It almost sounds like it makes that noise when the crank is in a certain position. Time to pull the motor off and see what spins easy and what doesn't.

kenny007
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Posts: 63
Joined: Sun. Dec. 21, 2008 8:48 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: Stratford, Chappee
Stove/Furnace Model: SC-75
Location: Riverhead NY

Post Thu. Dec. 29, 2011 10:57 am

The oil level seems low, mabe I will change it, what yould you guys suggest??
Thanks Ken

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Rob R.
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Posts: 11367
Joined: Fri. Dec. 28, 2007 4:26 pm
Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM DF520
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93
Coal Size/Type: Lehigh Rice
Other Heating: Dad's 1953 EFM Highboy
Location: Chazy, NY

Post Thu. Dec. 29, 2011 11:25 am

Ken, you still need to narrow down what component has the problem. I could see no oil causing issues, but just being a little low seems like an unlikely cause.
Rob R. wrote:With the power off and the drive pawl flipped up, try spinning the fan coupler by hand...does it spin freely?
Have you gone through that exercise yet?

As for the oil, I was just discussing this with another EFM user this morning. A traditional gear lube is what I suggest, 75w90, 80w90, etc. The exact viscosity isn't critical since this is a low load and fairly steady temperature application, but you should pick a gearlube that meets/exceeds an API rating of GL4/GL5. If you can spare the extra $10 or so, a synthetic oil is a good idea.

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CoalHeat
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Joined: Sat. Feb. 10, 2007 9:48 pm
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1959 EFM 350
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Magnafire Mark I
Baseburners & Antiques: Sears Signal Oak 15 & Andes Kitchen Range
Coal Size/Type: Rice and Chestnut
Other Heating: Fisher Fireplace Insert
Location: Stillwater, New Jersey

Post Thu. Dec. 29, 2011 11:28 am

90 weight oil in the gear reducer.
Pull the motor and run it off the stoker and see what it sounds like. It should spin freely. It sounds like the noise is from the motor.
Here's my stoker running:
0001.wmv
(5.07 MiB) Downloaded 62 times
Runs a little faster.
Heating a circa 1832 farmhouse with a Harman Magnafire Mark I & a 1959 EFM 350 (heating DHW).
100% Oil Free!
"It's what we learn after we think we know it all that counts."

kenny007
Member
Posts: 63
Joined: Sun. Dec. 21, 2008 8:48 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: Stratford, Chappee
Stove/Furnace Model: SC-75
Location: Riverhead NY

Post Thu. Dec. 29, 2011 12:55 pm

Hello,
I found the rubber piece between the motor and gearbox to have some play, lubed it now its gone
Shound there be some free play in the rubber ???
i still don't know why im spinning slow, any ideas??
Thanks Ken

kenny007
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Posts: 63
Joined: Sun. Dec. 21, 2008 8:48 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: Stratford, Chappee
Stove/Furnace Model: SC-75
Location: Riverhead NY

Post Thu. Dec. 29, 2011 1:22 pm

Anybody know which way the bottom arm should turn clockwise or counterclockwise?????
Thanks

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Rob R.
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Posts: 11367
Joined: Fri. Dec. 28, 2007 4:26 pm
Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM DF520
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93
Coal Size/Type: Lehigh Rice
Other Heating: Dad's 1953 EFM Highboy
Location: Chazy, NY

Post Thu. Dec. 29, 2011 1:29 pm

Counterclockwise. Mine takes 20 seconds to make 10 revolutions...I just timed it.

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CoalHeat
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Posts: 8327
Joined: Sat. Feb. 10, 2007 9:48 pm
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1959 EFM 350
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Magnafire Mark I
Baseburners & Antiques: Sears Signal Oak 15 & Andes Kitchen Range
Coal Size/Type: Rice and Chestnut
Other Heating: Fisher Fireplace Insert
Location: Stillwater, New Jersey

Post Thu. Dec. 29, 2011 1:34 pm

You have a crank ass'y on the output shaft of the gear reducer that has an elongated slot where the connecting rod attaches. If you compare the position of the connecting rod on your stoker to the position of the connecting rod in my video you will see that on my stoker the rod is positioned farther out from the center. If you move the rod on your stoker farther out the stoker will speed up. Since this will increase the connecting rod travel it will also increase the number of teeth engaged, so you'll have to readjust the drive pawl.

This looks like a rebuilt unit. Where did it come from?
Heating a circa 1832 farmhouse with a Harman Magnafire Mark I & a 1959 EFM 350 (heating DHW).
100% Oil Free!
"It's what we learn after we think we know it all that counts."

kenny007
Member
Posts: 63
Joined: Sun. Dec. 21, 2008 8:48 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: Stratford, Chappee
Stove/Furnace Model: SC-75
Location: Riverhead NY

Post Thu. Dec. 29, 2011 9:33 pm

Hello,
Took the motor off and found that the fan moved back on the shaft, closer to the motor
brought out the fan on the shaft about 1/2 inch all seems ok now rubber connector now seems tight
thanks everyone for the info...
ps What are you boiler temps when sitting after a long 20-30 burn???
Thanks Ken

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