Boiler Timer Settings

Stoker Coal Boilers automatically feed the coal and have controls and pumps just like any conventions boiler. They are intended to be used as a primary heat and often have domestic hot water coils as an added bonus. They can be set up independently or in dual sytem with your existing oil/gas boiler. They can accommodate both hot water base board or steam plumbing.
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plumber
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Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 350
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Post Tue. Oct. 18, 2011 7:42 pm

What are you boiler guys running for your timer settings? I started out with the factory 2 on 4 off, now I'm at about 1.5 on 5 off. It seems like I could stretch this out some more. I just had the boiler off for about a half hour to rewire my dump zone and once the fan came on she lot right up.
Ernie

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plumber
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Post Thu. Oct. 20, 2011 6:53 pm

What I should also ask is how long can I stetch out the timer before I have an outfire? My boiler keeps creeping up and my dump zone is on A LOT and my basement is HOTTT!!
Ernie

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WNY
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Post Thu. Oct. 20, 2011 7:00 pm

Whats your aquastat set at? 180? You can always lower it down a bit, so the boiler is not firing as much until it gets colder.
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plumber
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Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 350
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Post Thu. Oct. 20, 2011 7:24 pm

WNY wrote:Whats your aquastat set at? 180? You can always lower it down a bit, so the boiler is not firing as much until it gets colder.
High limit 170
Low limit 150/10 diff

Ive got a constant draft of .04

And my dump zone is set for 195/15 diff
Ernie

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jpen1
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Post Thu. Oct. 20, 2011 9:58 pm

Plumber your dumpzone aquastat is set to low . Should be set to 205 or 210. You need to at least cut the idle feed back more. You either have to shorten the amount of on time or lengthen the off time or cut back on the feed rheostat some. I run mine different than eveyone else as mine the comb. fan runs all the time. When it is running at high fire fan is on 100%, when idleing the fan runs with the rheostat set at minimum. So I have a totally different setup, however I have my stoker run run for 54 seconds and off for 5 minuts.

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plumber
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Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 350
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Post Fri. Oct. 21, 2011 6:35 pm

My new settings:
High limit 165 (actually what my house needs)
Low limit 140/20 differential
Dump zone 200 (all the way up)
Timer 2 on 15 off
Fan about 3/4 feed about 2/3

What should I be looking for? Where should I go from here?

Thanks
Ernie

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plumber
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Post Sun. Oct. 23, 2011 7:53 pm

I guess I should add that my feed screw is in 12 1/2

Is there a fine line between having an outfire and regularly over temping the boiler, or is climbing temps just the nature of the beast?
Ernie

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kstills
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Post Sun. Oct. 23, 2011 9:01 pm

plumber wrote:I guess I should add that my feed screw is in 12 1/2

Is there a fine line between having an outfire and regularly over temping the boiler, or is climbing temps just the nature of the beast?
Hate to say it, but I'm looking forward to colder weather, cause that should make this a non issue.

Did resetting your hi limit and all make a difference, or is the DZ still coming on?

plumber
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Post Sun. Oct. 23, 2011 9:09 pm

That makes two of us. I think stretching out the timer and turning down the rheostats made the bigger difference. My dump zone only trips once a day or so, usually over night when all my domestic water is satisfied and there is no load on the boiler. I must say, at this point it's all wild ass guess work.
Ernie

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kstills
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Post Sun. Oct. 23, 2011 9:41 pm

plumber wrote:That makes two of us. I think stretching out the timer and turning down the rheostats made the bigger difference. My dump zone only trips once a day or so, usually over night when all my domestic water is satisfied and there is no load on the boiler. I must say, at this point it's all wild ass guess work.
Mine seems to be holding pretty steady around 160-165 atm.

I turned my 6006A up to 160, which since I'm running about 15 degrees off to the 7224, should trip at 175-180 or so.

I have to get that to stop tripping, because I drop all the way to 87 degrees by the time the DZ turns off. Then I use a bunch of coal bringing the boiler back up to 130 again.

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plumber
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Post Sun. Oct. 23, 2011 9:48 pm

The two controls are completely independent of each other. Turn the 6006 up to 200/15 ( big wheel at 200 small white wheel at 15) that will have your dump zone trip at 200 and turn everything back on at 185.
Ernie

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kstills
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Post Sun. Oct. 23, 2011 9:55 pm

plumber wrote:The two controls are completely independent of each other. Turn the 6006 up to 200/15 ( big wheel at 200 small white wheel at 15) that will have your dump zone trip at 200 and turn everything back on at 185.
What I meant was that the 6006A is tripping about 15 degrees F lower than where the 7224 is reading. I had it set at 145f, and it was tripping at 160-165. Something in my plumbing isn't letting the well give me a good temperature reading, and I think it's the way I have the fresh water feed and Ex Tank plumbed. Both go into the left hand nipple where the 6006A is located, which is what the Axe manual called for, but when the DZ comes on, the line from the Ex Tank stays hot a long time.....which I think is why the DZ doesn't turn off until way after the boiler has cooled down.

Funny thing is the Ex tank is stone cold, I don't know where the increase in the temp in that line is coming from.

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jpen1
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Post Mon. Oct. 24, 2011 8:45 pm

After the initial temp surge following a heat cyle you shouldn't have any temp gain if you have the timer set up properly. I lose about 1 * per hour when on standby. If your still gaining when on standby adjust the timer or take some more off the rheostat for the feeder

kstills
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Post Wed. Oct. 26, 2011 8:20 am

jpen1 wrote:After the initial temp surge following a heat cyle you shouldn't have any temp gain if you have the timer set up properly. I lose about 1 * per hour when on standby. If your still gaining when on standby adjust the timer or take some more off the rheostat for the feeder
Ok, that's Sunday's project.

I had to re-plumb everything yesterday, so I'm back up and running. Now I need a few hours un-interrupted so that I can calibrate the idle time controls.

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