Squeak Below Gears on Auger Rod?
- stoker-man
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Get a socket that is the same OD, not larger, as your bushing and use it with a hammer to drive the bushing in towards the center. Don't be afraid to hit it with a sledge.
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With a 1/2 iron pipe and the threads cut off, I was able to hammer the pot bushing from the auger inlet side and put it out the back of the pot. This worked great. I also used the pipe to tap in the new bushing.
It was a bit difficult to hold the iron pipe on the bushing while I tapped the other end of the pipe, but after a while I got it seated correctly.
Also, was able to get the new auger bushing on. So now just have to figure out how deep to tap in the pot bushing and put it all back together.
Thanks for everyone's help. Seemed so simple too. Hopefully, I will have heat tomorrow.
Next project is to computerize the controls.
Dave
It was a bit difficult to hold the iron pipe on the bushing while I tapped the other end of the pipe, but after a while I got it seated correctly.
Also, was able to get the new auger bushing on. So now just have to figure out how deep to tap in the pot bushing and put it all back together.
Thanks for everyone's help. Seemed so simple too. Hopefully, I will have heat tomorrow.
Next project is to computerize the controls.
Dave
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How far should the short pipe go into the pot? There seems to be 2 ridges in the hole of the pot. Should the end of the pipe go to the back edge of the pot? I don't see the pin shown in one of the pot diagrams. What does this look like new? I would take more pictures next time I get a new EFM boiler.
Thanks,
Dave
Thanks,
Dave
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- stoker-man
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- Joined: Mon. Nov. 19, 2007 9:33 pm
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- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: 1981 efm wcb-24 in use 365 days a year
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- Other Heating: Hearthstone wood stove
Just be sure to have the drilled holes in the pipe, facing up.
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They are facing up. The bottom of the pipe hits what appears to be something melted so I am about 1/8" from the back flat edge shown on the right side. I could grind the bottom of the pipe to match the melted area if it makes a difference.
On the bright side, the sure is a nice new pot bushing!
Stoker-man,
Does the auger look okay to continue to use? The longer one is about the same.
Thanks,
Dave
On the bright side, the sure is a nice new pot bushing!
Stoker-man,
Does the auger look okay to continue to use? The longer one is about the same.
Thanks,
Dave
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- stoker-man
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- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: 1981 efm wcb-24 in use 365 days a year
- Coal Size/Type: Anthracite/Chestnut
- Other Heating: Hearthstone wood stove
The circumference of the flights are what you want to look at. Are they sharp anywhere along the length? They should be 1/8" wide, at least.
- Rob R.
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When the auger pipe is inserted into the pot, make sure the holes in the pipe line up with the hole in the casting. A die grinder or Dremel could be used to clearance that spot that is interfering with the pipe seating against the casting.
How old is this stoker anyway?
How old is this stoker anyway?
- Rob R.
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There is a hole in the casting above the holes in the auger pipe...you can see it here on the right side:
4 years seems like a pretty short life for an auger and pot bushing.
4 years seems like a pretty short life for an auger and pot bushing.
- Rob R.
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The holes in the burner pipe must line up with that hole in pot casting, it allows the pressure to equalize between the air chamber and the pipe.daluds wrote:What is the purpose of this aligning?
Thanks,
Dave