AHS S130 Coalgun- Puffbacks & Explosions

An improperly adjusted barometric damper--adjusted to maintain higher than the recommended draft of .04--can result in high coal consumption and can also contribute to temperature overshoot or, in my extreme cases, boiler overheating. The reason is that with high draft the boiler is "firing" all the time.

But maintaining a low draft while the boiler is idling--AHS recommends .04--is essential to vent carbon monoxide and other gasses.

I think Bob hit the nail on the head with excessive draft causing the problems.
I like the Dwyer 2000-00 magnehelic for keeping an eye on my draft. I think it's a nice easy to read instrument. (ebay item)
FYI I averaged 43 lbs. of coal per day last week and 6.23 lbs. per day of ash. That coal to ash weight ratio will down significantly when we get some cold weather.

Good day! I asked my AHS buddy to change his ash temp from 130 to 120 & report back in a month....but.... can someone go over the instructions to do so? His manual is a bit confusing. Right now his asher is set to some on at 130 & shut off at 140. We are assuming when you lower it to 120, you also lower the 140 to 130? He mentioned SVL & SVH. Is that High & Low ash temps? If someone can give us a step by step we'd sure appreciate it.

Freddy, check your 'PM's'.

I just thought of something. When the controller is indicating 130 as the setpoint it ashes starting at 120 degrees (and it stops ashing at 130 degrees). When AHS in the manual says to never go below 120 degrees, do they mean to never set the controller lower than a setpoint of 130 degrees, so it never ashes at below 120 degrees?

That would make sense and would also be the reason why they come from the factory pre-set at 140 degrees, but the manual say to set them to 130 degrees (I.E. to begin ashing at 130 degrees). When the setpoint is at 140 degrees as they come from the factory they do not ash until the grate temperature falls to 130 degrees.

Is this the way we are supposed to look at this? If so, then I have been looking at it incorrectly.

well usually when guys where talking about drop there temps from 140 to 130 they are talking about there high temp, so say mine is set at 140 and I want to drop it to 130, thats a 10 degree drop on the high number, it begins to ash at 120 and stops at 130, how your wording it your referring to you droping your temp using your 'lower 10 deg. differential' number...basically you want yours to ash at 120 and stop at 130, so your lowering your ash temp to 130, when the guys on here are saying im lowering my ash temp to 120 thats ashing at 110 and stoping at 120, hit the down arrow on the love controls, if the temp doesnt go down its locked, theres 2 buttons on the left of the up n down arrows, hold them in at same time to unlock your system, then hit the down arrow until you have reached 130 and thats all she wrote

I have emailed AHS asking for clarification.

The control on Charlies (my friends) is the Fugi control.

yeah isayre I thought the same thing when I first got my boiler but from doing all my reading on here guys were setting theres at 120 and it was starting to ash at 110 so I figured I just over thought it, but im glad you emailed them be sure to post results im anxious to hear

I think the attached set of instructions, taken from a 2007 AHS Manual, make pretty clear that when AHS says to set at 130 the reference is to SV. When SV is set to 130 then ashing starts when the sensed temperature drops to 120 and stops when sensed temperature rises to 130.

Bob wrote:I think the attached set of instructions, taken from a 2007 AHS Manual, make pretty clear that when AHS says to set at 130 the reference is to SV. When SV is set to 130 then ashing starts when the sensed temperature drops to 120 and stops when sensed temperature rises to 130.

Step 4 says to set it at 140.

Bob wrote:I think the attached set of instructions, taken from a 2007 AHS Manual, make pretty clear that when AHS says to set at 130 the reference is to SV. When SV is set to 130 then ashing starts when the sensed temperature drops to 120 and stops when sensed temperature rises to 130.

Freddy, the attached PDF that Bob just provided has your Fuji control instructions in it.

lsayre wrote:

Bob wrote:I think the attached set of instructions, taken from a 2007 AHS Manual, make pretty clear that when AHS says to set at 130 the reference is to SV. When SV is set to 130 then ashing starts when the sensed temperature drops to 120 and stops when sensed temperature rises to 130.

Step 4 says to set it at 140.

Yes--I think that may explain why the controller comes programmed from the factory at 140. But if you read the text about actual settings to use during operation it says: "If an ash temperature sensor is used, it should be set at 130 for normal operation. During periods of light demand, reducing the setting to 120 will aid in maintaining the proper level of coal in the firebox."

Anyone ever give any thought to wiring an Outdoor Reset to an AHS or A-A boiler?

It runs the boiler temps on a curve according to current outside temps by adjusting the operating limit parameters. You have the ability to specify the Min. and Max., so no issues going below condensing temp. in the boiler. Or hitting the "dump zone"

Also, wonder what AHS or A-A factory boys' opinions would be on this???

Thank you. We'll drop his temp & report back in a month or so.