Pictures of Your Boiler

McGiever · Post by **McGiever** » Wed. Nov. 07, 2018 1:56 pm

lzaharis wrote: ↑
Wed. Nov. 07, 2018 12:00 pm
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The rotating pot design makes it easy to clear off the ashes and eliminates the need for an ash knife.

The burn pot for the all canadian heaters is a bit different where it has a large solid casting that covers the firepot for the all canadian heaters.

The cast lid rotates to pull ashes and clinkers away from the center hole in the casting for the burning coal to be pushed up and out by the coal being augered into the pot.

These stokers use a single auger that has an end section that is butt welded to the same auger that rotates in reverse to create a restriction in the end of the auger to create more resistance near the end of the auger to maintain a heavy flow of coal and combustion air at all times due to the last auger section rotating in the reverse direction at all times.

What is a "all Canadian heater"?

lzaharis · Post by **lzaharis** » Wed. Nov. 07, 2018 6:26 pm

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They have 5 stoker models from 500,000 BTU to 2,300,000 BTU and
they can use anthracite and sub bituminous coal.

The left image is the complete stoker from the feed hopper to the burn pot
it has the VFD drive and auger controls mounted on the boiler.
The forced draft blower is connected the base of the burn pot and attached to the feed auger.
I forgot to add this but it is controlled with 2 single aquastats.
Tim The Tool Man Taylor would be proud.

bradludwig · Post by **bradludwig** » Thu. Nov. 15, 2018 8:42 pm

4 heating zones plus indirect fires hwh. Controlled by PLC acting as zone control with priority for hwh. 3600 square foot farmhouse no real insulation. Now we are burning coal hard! Installed 80 linear feet of cast iron baseboard in addition to the original baseboards and upright cast iron radiators that were here when we bought. Still learning and expanding. Heat to garage next!

lzaharis · Post by **lzaharis** » Fri. Nov. 16, 2018 9:56 am

Hello Brad,

Are you using zone valves or individual circulators? Do you have the fines dumping lever in your burn pot?

Have you kept track of the return water temperatures to the boiler sump?

In my place I have a B+G NRF 25 pushing 12 gallons per minute and 225+ feet of 3/4 fin tube baseboard in one loop. I kept the 2 return lines throttled down and half closed to slow the flow back to the boiler sump header.

I have found that with my KAA-4- I am using buck rice mix and using all buck now and have slowed the stoker down to 10 threads back and I have had no problems keep the house warm. My stoker may run a bit longer with 10 minutes total on the 30 minute timer but the buckwheat coal burns much better than the rice coal.

bradludwig · Post by **bradludwig** » Sat. Nov. 17, 2018 8:59 am

Individual circulator and flow checks. Yep, have the fines lever and I plan to install a pneumatic cylinder controlled by PLC to auto dump the fines and also a auto detection for shear pin breakage. Have not yet expanded into measuring return temperatures yet. Still learning and enjoying! Might try some analog temp measuring and some predictive PLC programming although I will need to get a newer PLC with more functions. Thanks!

dcveem3 · Post by **dcveem3** » Fri. Nov. 23, 2018 9:02 pm

I've had good bang-for-the-buck results with Koyo/Automation Direct units. If you can get your hands on GE or AB units...change-outs, they're pretty cheap too. But it's the software that kills ya.

Don

mof1964 · Post by **mof1964** » Wed. Dec. 05, 2018 6:58 pm

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Recently purchased 2008 DF520 unit. I installed new gooseneck bushing, grates & ropes, pot auger, hot water coil, bunch of new plumbing, hot water holding tank. We remove the old oil boiler( 55 years old and died) but left the plumbing intact for less work.
Fired the new unit yesterday on both oil and coal and everything works.

Post by **StokerDon** » Wed. Dec. 05, 2018 7:40 pm

That's a nice look'in install. Looks like you came up with a unique way of solving the age old "How do I get this crossover pipe in there?" question.

-Don

Post by **Rob R.** » Wed. Dec. 05, 2018 8:10 pm

mof1964 wrote: ↑
Wed. Dec. 05, 2018 6:58 pm
new efm df520 coal boiler.jpgnew efm df520 coal boiler 2.jpgnew efm df520 coal boiler 3.jpgnew efm df520 coal boiler 4.jpgnew efm df520 coal boiler 5jpg.jpgRecently purchased 2008 DF520 unit. I installed new gooseneck bushing, grates & ropes, pot auger, hot water coil, bunch of new plumbing, hot water holding tank. We remove the old oil boiler( 55 years old and died) but left the plumbing intact for less work.
Fired the new unit yesterday on both oil and coal and everything works.

Very nice looking boiler, and a nice install. Nice job on the return piping, first time I have seen that configuration. No bypass pipe from supply to return header?

mof1964 · Post by **mof1964** » Wed. Dec. 05, 2018 8:39 pm

Don not sure I understand your comment?
Rob what would the bypass do? Do I need one?

CoalHeat · Post by **CoalHeat** » Wed. Dec. 05, 2018 9:28 pm

The bypass helps even out the temperature flow from the boiler. I plumbed my EFM with one. However one of my return ports still had a plug in it, I didn't have tanks for my torch at the time so I plumbed it using only one return. It's been working well, but at some point I will replumb it to use both returns.

bradludwig · Post by **bradludwig** » Sat. Dec. 08, 2018 5:03 pm

I added the second return and the bypass loop pipe after the first year of running. Used a valve in the bypass loop so I could regulate the bypass. Makes a very notable difference in boiler temperature regulation.

Post by **StokerDon** » Sat. Dec. 08, 2018 5:32 pm

mof1964 wrote: ↑
Wed. Dec. 05, 2018 8:39 pm
Don not sure I understand your comment?
Rob what would the bypass do? Do I need one?

My comment was the fact that you used a pair of unions right off the boiler to make the crossover easy and out of the way. I have never seen it done quite like that, nice job.

Rob's comment about the bypass was directed to the fact that you did not install one for some reason. Do you have an EFM install manual? The bypass is just a 1.25" pipe from the supply down to the return. This is a solid fuel boiler so the fire never goes out, it still creates heat at idle. The heat can travel through the bypass to the return evening out the overall boiler temperature.

-Don

mof1964 · Post by **mof1964** » Sat. Dec. 08, 2018 7:10 pm

Don, I do have a manual. Does the bypass help keep the boiler at proper temp? My friend did the plumbing for me. Maybe he didn't see that in the manual. I will ask.
Maybe he thought we didn't need it since we have a loop feeding an 80 gallon hot water heater- which just acting like a hot water storage tank?

Post by **StokerDon** » Sat. Dec. 08, 2018 8:01 pm

In my opinion, you shouldn't be using a hot water storage tank. It kind of defeats the "On Demand" purpose of a stoker boiler. Hot water storage is for wood boilers, since they have such a short burn time.

-Don

Pictures of Your Boiler

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