EFM Install Completed. Help Needed With the Aquastat

 
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stoker-man
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Post by stoker-man » Fri. Feb. 25, 2011 3:46 pm

In addition to my private msg. to you, the circulator should run all the time there is a call for heat, especially when it's over the high limit. Your triple A will stop the circ. when the boiler water gets to the low limit.


 
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Post by CoalHeat » Fri. Feb. 25, 2011 3:58 pm

Your triple A will stop the circ. when the boiler water gets to the low limit.
It will break the circulator circuit at 10° below the low limit set point (on temperature drop) and restart the pump when the low limit set point is achieved (on temperature rise).

 
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Post by Sting » Fri. Feb. 25, 2011 4:06 pm

smtm wrote:
Sting wrote:If this is still the old mechanical relay system, you can excite the relay manually and proof its operation to close the B1 B2 terminal. Measure voltage at B1 - Is it there? Is C1 C2 closed? if yes then B1 and B2 will be open. This is a poor control device at best for a solid fuel appliance but its cheep.

Whats wrong with jumping the TT points???? The likelihood of the relay failing closed is about as remote as hitting the lottery, and it provides far better boiler control - depending on the rest of the system control.
There is no voltage at B1 or B2 (with the temp below the low temp settings), unless the timer is activated.
There -- you found the problem - now what is the cause? Did you read the link about how to set the Triple A and do you have it set so the b1 and b2 should be closed? forget the TT jumper leave it - forget the MT C terminals - you don't need them - your only using 1/3 of this control so that's all you need to worry about.

I would in this application, park the Triple a and use a SPST well type aquastat for burner control and then strap on a second for a hi limit safety - but thats me.

Still, I am annoyed that when the timer is active you see power at these points -- it must be a back feed --- proof that! You should be able to manually excite the B1B2 relay and close the points with an insulated screwdriver. Nope I didn't write that. I wouldn't do it - you should NOT try this.

 
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Post by CoalHeat » Fri. Feb. 25, 2011 4:22 pm

when the timer is active you see power at these points -- it must be a back feed
Yep.

 
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Post by smtm » Fri. Feb. 25, 2011 4:26 pm

When I first started the unit why would the stoker motor run up until the point that the high tempt setting shut it down, as it should, and then not restart?

 
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Post by Sting » Fri. Feb. 25, 2011 4:37 pm

OK -- not to be annoying but still attempting to address the last question 00 Ill have to re-ask
Sting wrote: Did you read the link about how to set the Triple A and do you have it set so the b1 and b2 should be closed?

 
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Post by smtm » Fri. Feb. 25, 2011 4:52 pm

Sting wrote:OK -- not to be annoying but still attempting to address the last question 00 Ill have to re-ask
Sting wrote: Did you read the link about how to set the Triple A and do you have it set so the b1 and b2 should be closed?
I'll go back and reread the directions.

Care to give me the readers digest version?


 
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Post by Sting » Fri. Feb. 25, 2011 5:01 pm

no

And by that short answer - don't simply assume I am an *censored* - I am and Ill line up 12 women in under 6 minutes to pay testimonial - but that's not the point

Cheating on the test never taught us anything - learn how to set that dam thing and set it correctly for YOUR application

I cannot see across the public internet into your boiler room and tell you to do z when you may need to do t

 
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Post by smtm » Fri. Feb. 25, 2011 8:49 pm

Sting wrote:no

And by that short answer - don't simply assume I am an *censored* - I am and Ill line up 12 women in under 6 minutes to pay testimonial - but that's not the point

Cheating on the test never taught us anything - learn how to set that dam thing and set it correctly for YOUR application

I cannot see across the public internet into your boiler room and tell you to do z when you may need to do t
My neighbor is a 20 year electrician and he did all the wiring on the boiler. I watched but I was busy with other things trying to get the unit up an running

Since he away on vacation until Tuesday I was hoping that I could figure out how to get the unit running properly since we are do for a cold spell for the next couple of days.

Was not trying to cheat just looking for some advice from someone with more experience than me, to try to help me out of a jam.

 
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Post by CoalHeat » Fri. Feb. 25, 2011 10:04 pm

Assuming the wiring was all done correctly it would seem to be a problem with the aquastat. Without actually being in your boiler room there isn't much else we can do.

 
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Post by smtm » Sat. Feb. 26, 2011 10:32 am

Figured out the problem thanks to scrapper jr :D

The timer was wired directly to the stoker motor and not to the ZR terminal

A jumper from "1" to the ZR terminal and problem solved.

 
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Post by CoalHeat » Sat. Feb. 26, 2011 12:52 pm

I figured it was a wiring problem. I would have to sit down with the wiring diagram to figure it out, Scrapper has all the info committed to memory.

 
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Post by stoker-man » Sat. Feb. 26, 2011 4:58 pm

A jumper from number 1 of what control?

 
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Post by AA130FIREMAN » Sat. Feb. 26, 2011 5:03 pm

smtm wrote:Figured out the problem thanks to scrapper jr :D

The timer was wired directly to the stoker motor and not to the ZR terminal

A jumper from "1" to the ZR terminal and problem solved.
I am no authority on the wiring of an EFM, but I don't think you would want a timer wired directly to the motor without a high limit aquastat between the 2.

 
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Post by blackcoal » Sat. Feb. 26, 2011 7:08 pm

They don't calll Scrapper the EFM Guru for nothing, He forgot more about EFM's then most people know!


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