Rebuilding EFM DF-520 Project

MAy I see some pics please, trust me, I'm NOT welding the flange at all, I have a friend that will weld, even I have to get him a case of beer,lol Thank you

markviii wrote:

gwjwbw wrote:The opening on the boiler for DHW coil, I have a 5 gpm coil now and going with a 7gpm, do I need to make the opening bigger?
I snaped off 3 of the 8 bolts that hold the coil, now going to cut them all out and weld a flange onto the boiler and use nut and bolt for the coil
Gerard

Gerard, the extended coil mount is available from EFM. It requires a new style coil to match, so be sure to order them together. My 520 has been fitted with this mount, if you want a picture let me know. I recommend you have an experienced welder install it.

-Rob

Europachris wrote today:

Oh - when it comes to welding, the grinder is your friend! I also find I'm a far better stick welder than MIG welder.

I learned a long time ago when I worked for Airco Welding Supply, if you can't MIG it, can't TIG it, just STICK it!
Good job!

Welding up a flue, base or whatever is one thing, but welding on the pressurized part of the boiler is a different animal. Anyone in doubt, go read the threads on boiler explosions. I know that most of us aren't using a steam system, but I'll still make my appeal.

I have no doubt that a good weldor could do it perfectly well with 7018, or a mig [not a little 110v], even using the common short circuit method. Although I'll add that I bet that any mig welding done at the manufacturer of boilers uses a spray process. [MUCH different than short circuit, different shielding gas, wire feed rate etc]. On mig, I don't know much about asme welding certs, but the aws D1.1 code book does not allow short circuit on structural steel. Heavy structual steel shops spray.

I might be anal, but if I had access to the equipment, I would tig the root in, then cover with 7018 or spray mig.

Dave

are the 5 gpm and 7gpm opening the same size? I'm planning on making my own glange with 2x2x1/4 steel agle iron. The coil I'm planning on getting it another time for now, just want my buddy to weld the flange on so I could paint the outside of the boiler mean while.
Thank you, Gerard

markviii wrote:

MAy I see some pics please, trust me, I'm NOT welding the flange at all, I have a friend that will weld, even I have to get him a case of beer,lol Thank you

Here is a picture I took after I set the coil inside the boiler (no bolts yet).

-Rob

IMG_0059.JPG

The plate and opening are the same for the 5 and 7 gallon coil.

I'd worry more about a leak than an explosion when welding on a plate as long as you have a relief valve, but I'm not discounting quality welding.

Now I could go ahead to make the flange and have it welded this week, Thank you Stokerman

stoker-man wrote:The plate and opening are the same for the 5 and 7 gallon coil.

I'd worry more about a leak than an explosion when welding on a plate as long as you have a relief valve, but I'm not discounting quality welding.

If you fabricating an extended flange, I would get the one from efm which is made for your boiler and it's not the same bolt pattern as your old coil.

europachris wrote:

gwjwbw wrote:ok people, the LAST base update
are you ready??????

What a diff from the old one to the new one.
Now tomm, gonna fire up the soker in the base and see what happen
Gerard

I'd suggest adding a cleanout "hatch" to the flue outlet section of the base. Two reasons why I did and I'm glad I did: 1) You don't have to pull the flue pipe off to clean the base out. Sheet metal screws only screw so many times into the same hole..... 2) When cleaning out the boiler tubes, the still-connected flue sucks up all the fine ash and soot that doesn't fall to the bottom of the base, keeping it out of your face and boiler room.

In my case, I need to give my boiler a brushing every few weeks to maintain peak heat transfer. It builds up a coating pretty quickly due to the small amount of soot helping the fly ash to stick to the cool boiler surfaces. It definitely won't be as frequent of a requirement with anthracite, but I still think it's a nice feature.

I just cut a hole, then cut a bigger piece than the hole for a cover, and then welded two angled tabs on the bottom to hook onto the edge and welded a bolt from the inside of the base to fasten the cover with a wing nut. It's all flat enough that no gasket or sealant is required.

Frirst Chris you still have to take the pipe off to clean the pipe out so while the pipe is off for cleaning it is not hard to stick a vac in the base to suck out fly ash so there is no reason to put a clean out door on the base Just another place for air leaks that yo have to seal up.

Second he has a DF 520 which is not a tube boiler it is a flat plate heat exchanger by going thur the Frontr SQ door he can remove the baffle plate that hangs in there and remove the two back plates off the hooks now the whole back of the boiler is open you use a horseshoe boiler bush to clean in between the heat exchangers plates and like I said before if you use a 1 1/4 hose on the shop vac with a hose attachment or two you can clean out the flue breach thur the front door and the bottom of base now if you keep up with maintenance every year there will be very little ash in the bottom back of base most of it will be in the flue pipe hooked up to the back of the base .
Which is why you need to take it off anyway to clean it out so you have two ways of cleaning the base out front or back.

gwjwbw wrote:The opening on the boiler for DHW coil, I have a 5 gpm coil now and going with a 7gpm, do I need to make the opening bigger?
I snaped off 3 of the 8 bolts that hold the coil, now going to cut them all out and weld a flange onto the boiler and use nut and bolt for the coil
Gerard

Why not Just drill out the broken studs and re thread the holes and put new studs in then there is not need for a flange
and either size coil will fit right on .
Should of put the studs on the New parts list .

All the trouble I went thruto get the nuts off and broke 3 out of 8, it be alot easy to have a flange weld in, I rather cut the nut and bolt out thru break another stud, anyway, thank for letting me know about the coil size, Gerard

coal berner wrote:

gwjwbw wrote:The opening on the boiler for DHW coil, I have a 5 gpm coil now and going with a 7gpm, do I need to make the opening bigger?
I snaped off 3 of the 8 bolts that hold the coil, now going to cut them all out and weld a flange onto the boiler and use nut and bolt for the coil
Gerard

Why not Just drill out the broken studs and re thread the holes and put new studs in then there is not need for a flange
and either size coil will fit right on .
Should of put the studs on the New parts list .

HI new to this but I have a efm 520 boiler and I would like to get some parts where is a go place. I need a new auger grates seals bushings etc. please point me to a good source. I have been on here reading alot of post and the name scraper 23 jr comes up alot. Is he a good source for parts. and how do I get a hold of him.

thank you
mike

Go to efmheating.com Look under the dealer list for Wilhelm Furnace in Pine Grove, PA.

stoker-man wrote:Go to efmheating.com Look under the dealer list for Wilhelm Furnace in Pine Grove, PA.

thank you for the help

mike