Rebuilding EFM DF-520 Project

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gwjwbw
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Post by gwjwbw » Wed. Feb. 02, 2011 8:38 pm

I bought this boiler, drove 3 hours from Lancaster,PA to western part of Maryland, hope it was worth the trip.
But this boiler need some work. It was manufacture in May 1987
The base is SHOT, I'm planning on making a new base with 1 1/2x1 1/2 angle and hot rolled metal for all the side.
The coal burner run, air blow thru, gear moved, still don't know what shape it in.
The boiler itself seem ok to me, bolt for DHW in the boiler sure don't want to come out, don't know what shape the coil in either.

What I'm interesting is a BUDDY, to tell me what to do in each part of the boiler, starting with the base, then burner, boiler and last thing is the control.
So, for now, before I go make a new base, I'm staying with the measurment from the old one, and other advice that I need, please speak up :D
The question I have now on the base, can I make a collar for 6in round vent instead of 8in round vent? That about all I need on the base
Next question, what all do I need to look for on the burner,stoker?
I thank you for your help, look at the pics and see what a mess is the base,lol
Thank you, Gerard

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stoker-man
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Post by stoker-man » Thu. Feb. 03, 2011 6:50 am

Best advice is to look at the pictorials on efm's section. You need an 8" flue outlet.

 
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EarthWindandFire
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Post by EarthWindandFire » Thu. Feb. 03, 2011 12:47 pm

Hi Gerard,

You are a brave man for taking on that rebuild. I give you credit for the effort.

Best of luck!

 
gwjwbw
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Post by gwjwbw » Thu. Feb. 03, 2011 2:09 pm

Thank you. I'm a sheetmetal worker by trade and I know I could do alot, but with the stoker, control and piping, I just hope I get the help here from some of these EFM guys.
I know we all will have this boiler in place this summer for next winter. :)
Thank, Gerard

 
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glenn harris
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Post by glenn harris » Thu. Feb. 03, 2011 6:59 pm

Gerard,

Since you saved me a trip to Maryland!!!...Feel free to call me and I will try and help you out as best I can.

Glenn
570 688-7888

 
gwjwbw
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Post by gwjwbw » Thu. Feb. 03, 2011 8:37 pm

Thank you Glenn,
I think the help I'm really gonna need it the control wiring, I do want to replace all the control.
I hope I didnt upset you for buying this boiler, I first saw it last thursday and JUMP at the chance,I hope3 hours one way is worth it. I understand you buy and sell, but I'm keeping this one and selling my LL Pocono.
I need to make a whole new base, man, this base is SHOT! lol The new base will be made with angle iron for better support.
I cleaned up the stoker,worm, fire box, seem to me is ok, but don't know what more it need to be done. Again, thank for your offering, and I keep you in mind as I go along.

Gerard

now I have a EFM buddy :)
who eles want to be my buddy? :D

 
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coal berner
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Location: Pottsville PA. Schuylkill County PA. The Hart Of Anthracite Coal Country.
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1986 Electric Furnace Man 520 DF

Post by coal berner » Fri. Feb. 04, 2011 1:43 pm

gwjwbw wrote:I bought this boiler, drove 3 hours from Lancaster,PA to western part of Maryland, hope it was worth the trip.
But this boiler need some work. It was manufacture in May 1987
The base is SHOT, I'm planning on making a new base with 1 1/2x1 1/2 angle and hot rolled metal for all the side.
The coal burner run, air blow thru, gear moved, still don't know what shape it in.
The boiler itself seem ok to me, bolt for DHW in the boiler sure don't want to come out, don't know what shape the coil in either.

What I'm interesting is a BUDDY, to tell me what to do in each part of the boiler, starting with the base, then burner, boiler and last thing is the control.
So, for now, before I go make a new base, I'm staying with the measurment from the old one, and other advice that I need, please speak up :D
The question I have now on the base, can I make a collar for 6in round vent instead of 8in round vent? That about all I need on the base
Next question, what all do I need to look for on the burner,stoker?
I thank you for your help, look at the pics and see what a mess is the base,lol
Thank you, Gerard
You need a 8" breach Why not buy a New breach flue plate for the rear of base from a efm dealer instead of making one .
Only two dog leg bolts hold it on From the Pic of stoker you needs a Auger coupler with cotter pins

http://www.efmheating.com/PA.htm


 
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coal berner
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Stoker Coal Boiler: 1986 Electric Furnace Man 520 DF

Post by coal berner » Fri. Feb. 04, 2011 2:01 pm

gwjwbw wrote:Thank you. I'm a sheetmetal worker by trade and I know I could do alot, but with the stoker, control and piping, I just hope I get the help here from some of these EFM guys.
I know we all will have this boiler in place this summer for next winter. :)
Thank, Gerard
As for the controls You need a Honeywell L8124 Triple Aquastat And a Timer If you have more them one zone you will need another control Honeywell 845 for the other circulate pump or pumps . Auto fill. Back flow Preventer. low water cutoff .

PRV Valve. Lots of ball valves. DHW mixer / hot water mixer control. Expansion tank . Air scoop. Air vent .
Depending on what tank you get Amtrol or Extol With Air bladder & built in Air vent or Non Air bladder no Built in Air vent tank .

 
gwjwbw
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Post by gwjwbw » Fri. Feb. 04, 2011 8:07 pm

ok, I'm going ahead and making the 8in round collar. I figure I'm missing some kind of collar for the worm, that the one thing I need to order, but gonna wait till whateles I may need before the control stuff.
The frame for the base is all welded, now on monday start on making the sides, then it be ready.
Should I paint the inside and if I do, what type of paint?
I figure I use normal high temp paint for the outside.
Will add pics to show the frame on monday night, then more pic before base get paint.
So far, it been a good project, and cant wait to put in the stoker to fire it up and see what it does.
Thank for your help
Gerard

 
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coal berner
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Location: Pottsville PA. Schuylkill County PA. The Hart Of Anthracite Coal Country.
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1986 Electric Furnace Man 520 DF

Post by coal berner » Sat. Feb. 05, 2011 3:21 pm

gwjwbw wrote:ok, I'm going ahead and making the 8in round collar. I figure I'm missing some kind of collar for the worm, that the one thing I need to order, but gonna wait till whateles I may need before the control stuff.
The frame for the base is all welded, now on monday start on making the sides, then it be ready.
Should I paint the inside and if I do, what type of paint?
I figure I use normal high temp paint for the outside.
Will add pics to show the frame on monday night, then more pic before base get paint.
So far, it been a good project, and cant wait to put in the stoker to fire it up and see what it does.
Thank for your help
Gerard
Auger tube /Pipe 2" ID Pipe either S.S. Aluminum or Sec 40 carbon steel
You will probably need a new Pot bushing and a Auger bushing installed before you fire up the stoker .
Don't forget to put the gas holes facing up / towards the top of pot on the Pot Auger tube should be 5 or 7 holes 1/8"
make sure the stop pins are in the auger bell were the Auger goes into the pot should be a slot cut into the end of Auger tube to set against the pin should be inside the cut slot to stop the auger pipe from moving left to right .
also there should be a stop pin on the air tube side as well to lock in the air tube in to the pot and the blower housing end

Check for cracked or broken grates and make sure the pot has three gaskets in it one at bottom where the grates sit on the goose neck one at the top under the grates and one under the ash ring that goes on top of grates /Pot .
Fill the Oil pan under the drum gear with 20 weight oil or synthetic oil. ATF Fluid works to
Depending on what gearbox you have check fluid 90 weight gear oil or synthetic gear oil
check to see if there is a shear pin in at the end of shaft at the Sq. end.
Are you using the Pot Auger only or both Pot & Bin Auger if both you need a auger pipe coupler to Join both auger tube pipes together.

Don't forget to seal up the base to boiler with boiler putty or hi temp silicone as well as the base side plates and rear flue plate and auger tube going thur the base with 3/8" rope gasket around the inside of auger tube plate that bolts
on the side of base .

Everything should be sealed up good air tight.

Oh don't forget ash door gasket to as well a viewing door gasket.
Hi temp paint for out side of boiler and base I would not really bother with the inside of boiler with paint it will only last a short time before it burns off I would do the inside of base to help with the coal ash from eating the base up .
Also use cider or cement blocks under the 4 corners of base to keep it off the ground /floor that will also help the bottom of base from rotting out from damp floor you need air to circulate under the base.
You also will need a new water coil Gasket

 
gwjwbw
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Post by gwjwbw » Sat. Feb. 05, 2011 8:42 pm

wow, that alof of info to digest, lol
anyway, what you think of this fire pot?
getting the screw out it another thing
Thank you, Gerard

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CoalHeat
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Post by CoalHeat » Sat. Feb. 05, 2011 8:50 pm

Time for new grates!!

 
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009to090
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Post by 009to090 » Sat. Feb. 05, 2011 8:55 pm

Yep, they don't look good. Add a set of them to your new-parts list.

 
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CoalHeat
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Coal Size/Type: Rice and Chestnut
Other Heating: Fisher Fireplace Insert

Post by CoalHeat » Sat. Feb. 05, 2011 8:56 pm

We need detailed photos of the boiler. We love pictures here, you know.

 
gwjwbw
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Post by gwjwbw » Sat. Feb. 05, 2011 10:04 pm

oh we'll get plenty of pics soon, trust me lol


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