Furnace Always Building Pressure
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Hi,
Yes the pressure was up to about 34 psi when I checked it.
Den
Yes the pressure was up to about 34 psi when I checked it.
Den
- whistlenut
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The PRV is preset at 30 PSI. It could be junk also. I've replaced 30 or more in the last 5 years. If a boiler gets up to that pressure often, you have a definite inbound leak somewhere. The rubber blatter tank should be set at 12 psi. That's good.
The boiler cold should only be 10 to 12 psi. At 180 you might see 15 to 18, seldom 20. If the tridicator pressure/temp gauge is correct, then you have a source that is adding water to the boiler. There are only two. In-feed pressure regulator valve, or if you have a tankless coil. I don't recall if you are on town water or well water, but in either case, you have at least 40 to 60 psi available to bypass the in-feed regulator or the coil. Personally, I would replace the in-feed pressure regulator. You mentioned earlier that it was gunked up when I asked if you could clean it. It is short money, and you could be confident about it. Don't know how long your PRV valve has been in service, but it also is short money. NOW, if the coil is toast, that ain't short money unless you are Bill Gates. I know 300 won't kill anyone, but your water could be harsh, and that may be the price you have to pay.
It blows me away that I still have the original coils in two AA 130's; 2 AA 260's and they are 32 years old!!
Hopefully we have been helpful, but my .02 is to replace two items, then if that doesn't stop the issue, go to the next logical choice and get a coil. How old is this equipment? What type of water is in your area? Does it cause baldness??? Only kidding....
We'll leave the new 'Obama energy reduction, zero heat emitting, long life radiant light device' on for ya!
The boiler cold should only be 10 to 12 psi. At 180 you might see 15 to 18, seldom 20. If the tridicator pressure/temp gauge is correct, then you have a source that is adding water to the boiler. There are only two. In-feed pressure regulator valve, or if you have a tankless coil. I don't recall if you are on town water or well water, but in either case, you have at least 40 to 60 psi available to bypass the in-feed regulator or the coil. Personally, I would replace the in-feed pressure regulator. You mentioned earlier that it was gunked up when I asked if you could clean it. It is short money, and you could be confident about it. Don't know how long your PRV valve has been in service, but it also is short money. NOW, if the coil is toast, that ain't short money unless you are Bill Gates. I know 300 won't kill anyone, but your water could be harsh, and that may be the price you have to pay.
It blows me away that I still have the original coils in two AA 130's; 2 AA 260's and they are 32 years old!!
Hopefully we have been helpful, but my .02 is to replace two items, then if that doesn't stop the issue, go to the next logical choice and get a coil. How old is this equipment? What type of water is in your area? Does it cause baldness??? Only kidding....
We'll leave the new 'Obama energy reduction, zero heat emitting, long life radiant light device' on for ya!
- Poconoeagle
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After re-reading 4 pages on this thread, two things stick in my mind.
the first post ...... "Hi,
I put a new pressure relief valve on my furnace and re bleed the system. Ever since then, my furnace is building pressure."
and..."Still building pressure. I took the taco valve off and took it apart and it was really gunked up with rust and sediment. I cleaned it up real good and the problem is still there"
the first post ...... "Hi,
I put a new pressure relief valve on my furnace and re bleed the system. Ever since then, my furnace is building pressure."
and..."Still building pressure. I took the taco valve off and took it apart and it was really gunked up with rust and sediment. I cleaned it up real good and the problem is still there"
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Lets start at the beginnning,
There was a slight drip on my prv for a few weeks. I finally got around to replacing the prv. Then my pressure was going up so I took the feedvalve off and cleaned it. Dint help. I went out and bought a new one and installed it. Didnt help. I did the isolation thing with the coil and the valve before the feedvalve and neighter helped. I checked the bladder pressure and there was none. I pumped it up to 12 psi and didnt help. HELP!!
den
I am on a well with irony water and my efm is about 10 yrs old. It has been installed in my present home about 1 yr. I had it in a previous house before here. When I moved here I took my efm along LOL. The house I bought is a 5000 sq. ft house but am only heating 2500 sq. ft. It had oil heat and there is no way I could afford that. So we loaded up the truck and took it with.
There was a slight drip on my prv for a few weeks. I finally got around to replacing the prv. Then my pressure was going up so I took the feedvalve off and cleaned it. Dint help. I went out and bought a new one and installed it. Didnt help. I did the isolation thing with the coil and the valve before the feedvalve and neighter helped. I checked the bladder pressure and there was none. I pumped it up to 12 psi and didnt help. HELP!!
den
I am on a well with irony water and my efm is about 10 yrs old. It has been installed in my present home about 1 yr. I had it in a previous house before here. When I moved here I took my efm along LOL. The house I bought is a 5000 sq. ft house but am only heating 2500 sq. ft. It had oil heat and there is no way I could afford that. So we loaded up the truck and took it with.
- Sting
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1. Is the PRV orientated correctly -- go back to the BG link I gave you.
2 -- whats going on with the old boiler??? Is there still a feed water or DHW coil connected to it?
Think about ALL the possible ( ones you have not shared) pressure sources that can impinge the system..
2 -- whats going on with the old boiler??? Is there still a feed water or DHW coil connected to it?
Think about ALL the possible ( ones you have not shared) pressure sources that can impinge the system..
- Poconoeagle
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hmmmmm expanding water...... what is that water temp by the way???
- stoker-man
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He pretty much ruled out the coil in a previous test. I would replace the pressure reducing valve first. There is still suspicion about the bladder tank having zero pressure, but that's a distant second choice.
- whistlenut
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Something is missing from this equation. It isn't rocket science, so what is "The rest of the story". The PRV does in no way allow any increase in pressure, only relieve it. If the coil is eliminated as 'suspect', then there is something in you loop causing the entrance of water at a pressure greater than 12 psi (cold). I'm not scratching my head, just looking for the source; it is right there someplace.............................
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Morning,
this is the First night we had no water in the bucket!!!!!!!!!!!! I checked the pressure in the exp tank and it is holding at 12 psi. Pressure in the boiler is high at 30 psi. Temp is at 180 F. I think I will bleed the heat lines again today to get as much air out as possible. And try to keep the pressure at 20psi tops.
Den
this is the First night we had no water in the bucket!!!!!!!!!!!! I checked the pressure in the exp tank and it is holding at 12 psi. Pressure in the boiler is high at 30 psi. Temp is at 180 F. I think I will bleed the heat lines again today to get as much air out as possible. And try to keep the pressure at 20psi tops.
Den
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Answer to Sting. The old boiler was taken out and the coal boiler was put in its place. It worked like a champ last winter. Something went amiss over the off season. The new pressure reducing valve was put on same as the old one.
Den
Den
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Is there any chance that there is too much air in the piping? Would that increase or decrease pressure or would that not make a difference with pressure?
Den
Den
- whistlenut
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- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Ford, Jensen, NYer, Van Wert,
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwoods
- Coal Size/Type: Barley, Buck, Rice ,Nut, Stove
- Other Heating: Oil HWBB
I assume you have an air scoop with a bleeder vent on top, or a spirovent to capture and remove air in the system. Air always an issue if you can't remove it. Are the bleeder vents stuck perhaps? That does not account for the 30+ psi in the boiler unless the temp was so high as to cause steam. The boiler should be humming along around 15 to 20 psi when up to temp.
Obviously, if the aquastats are not performing as designed, you could get incorrect readings, however the tridicator temp/pressure gauge and aquastat should darned close. I have never seen a bladder type expansion tank have no pressure.
It could be defective, could have the air valve leaking. That could be why the pressure rises so dramatically to cause the blowoff or weeping at the PRV.
I should have asked if you have the ability to power vent the system, zone by zone. That sure forces any air to be released.
Obviously, if the aquastats are not performing as designed, you could get incorrect readings, however the tridicator temp/pressure gauge and aquastat should darned close. I have never seen a bladder type expansion tank have no pressure.
It could be defective, could have the air valve leaking. That could be why the pressure rises so dramatically to cause the blowoff or weeping at the PRV.
I should have asked if you have the ability to power vent the system, zone by zone. That sure forces any air to be released.
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I did not drain and refill the system. Should I do that every fall?Sting wrote:Well sure -- Did you share with us that you drained and refilled the system this fall?
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I should have asked if you have the ability to power vent the system, zone by zone. That sure forces any air to be released.[/quote]
How do I power vent the system?
This is an older setup. I do not think I have any of those newer devices on my plumbing. You guys have got to remember I know very little about this system. I am not a hvac guy.
Den
How do I power vent the system?
This is an older setup. I do not think I have any of those newer devices on my plumbing. You guys have got to remember I know very little about this system. I am not a hvac guy.
Den