Survey About the Type of Flue Pipe You Use

SMITTY wrote:Used black first time using coal, this was the result after ONE SEASON: ( in moist basement )

I now have 304 stainless, but this is what it looks like going on yr.3 :

Stovepipe, stainless yr.3 (2).JPG

Stovepipe, stainless, yr 3.JPG

BUY 316!! Don't try to save a buck like I did.

FIRST MISTAKE: Black stovepipe -- duration: 1 SEASON
SECOND MISTAKE: 304 stainless stovepipe -- duration: 3 seasons (less, if you don't like holes)

BUY 316!! I'm kicking myself now for not ponying up the cash when I had it!

Yamabond will become part of my stovepipe this season....

The best S.S. To use with coal is 316 L S.S. more money but you will get more years out of it then with Just 316 S.S.

This 316 stainless pipe from Olympia supply..... Can it be used for external flue pipe, or a liner only?

It's sold as a chimney liner pipe and then you can wrap insulation around it to keep the gasses inside warmer. I don't know why you couldn't use it outside, except that the surface would be hot and the gasses would cool alot faster without the insulation. Better to call Olympia.

J.C.

coal berner wrote:9 " efm 520 is 8" flue and the 1300 is a 12" flue what are you using besides the two efm's that you need 9"
I would not change any sizes on the efm's you will have a draft issue

My 520 is transplanted into a Kurland Boiler and base.... it uses a 9 inch exit instead of the EFM 8 inch

The 1300 I had to adapted down to 8 inch by making a whole new plate with an 8 inch nipple..... the reason being I had no way to hook up the 12 inch into my 8 inch chimney at the time

I never measured draft with a manometer..... but it seem to work alright for 2 years now.... burns up all of the coal and the baro damper seems to do its thing also.

I know it should properly have a 12 inch but as long as it works good I had to fuss with it.... Im not doing the furnace any harm am I ????

Tyler

BTW..... I keep it good and clean with a shop vac twice a year

I used a good black pipe. It's thicker than the stuff at Home Depot. I think it was 18 gauge. After using it 1 year, there's only surface rust on inside surfaces. I would have gone stainless but I was afraid of the cost. As for my experience with inspectors, they're going to follow what the installation manual says. I think it says not to use galvanized so that could be the reason for the problems with the inspectors.

Coal Guzzler wrote:I used a good black pipe. It's thicker than the stuff at Home Depot. I think it was 18 gauge. After using it 1 year, there's only surface rust on inside surfaces. I would have gone stainless but I was afraid of the cost. As for my experience with inspectors, they're going to follow what the installation manual says. I think it says not to use galvanized so that could be the reason for the problems with the inspectors.

Most black pipe sold these days is either 24Ga or 22Ga If your lucky to find it . 18Ga is very hard to find that would be the best to use in black pipe if you can find it .

CoalJockey wrote:J.C.

My 520 is transplanted into a Kurland Boiler and base.... it uses a 9 inch exit instead of the EFM 8 inch

The 1300 I had to adapted down to 8 inch by making a whole new plate with an 8 inch nipple..... the reason being I had no way to hook up the 12 inch into my 8 inch chimney at the time

I never measured draft with a manometer..... but it seem to work alright for 2 years now.... burns up all of the coal and the baro damper seems to do its thing also.

I know it should properly have a 12 inch but as long as it works good I had to fuss with it.... Im not doing the furnace any harm am I ????

Tyler

BTW..... I keep it good and clean with a shop vac twice a year

Yes I forgot you set up with the kurland boiler base .
As for the 1300 well if it works fine good but keep a eye on the draft going from a 12" to a 8" is alot to reduce

I use 24 ga. I removed it after the season, cleaned it out and washed it with baking soda and water. Same for my 8' of double wall stainless. Worked like a charm. No rust at all.

Now I have to screw all the seams just for backup.

jmmazzy wrote:Now I have to screw all the seams just for backup.

Wow is that pipe made out of gold Oh why did you put the baro so far away from the unit & why so high up.

I have el cheapo 8" black pipe from local Lowe's. Coming up on 2nd season with it, took it down and rinsed the fly ash out of it with a garden hose. Touched it up with high heat black spray paint. I left a pile of coal ash in my stove all summer, must be lucky no major corrosion.

coal berner wrote, Oh why did you put the baro so far away from the unit & why so high up.

Baro should be located close to boiler but no less than 12" except for forced draft or incinerators which should be close to chimney as shown in figure 1 of AHS installation manual.

jmmazzy wrote:coal berner wrote, Oh why did you put the baro so far away from the unit & why so high up.

Baro should be located close to boiler but no less than 12" except for forced draft or incinerators which should be close to chimney as shown in figure 1 of AHS instulation manual.

Yes you are correct On A A & AHS the baro should be closer to the chimney. Aswell the stove pipe shound be half way
into the tee where the baro is when looking threw the baro flap door you should see the stove pipe at the half way point
in the Tee does not look like you have set up like that hard to tell from your pics but it looks like to me you have the
stove pipe right at the end of the tee and not inside at the half way point of the tee .

coal berner wrote:the stove pipe shound be half way into the tee where the baro is when looking threw the baro flap door you should see the stove pipe at the half way point

What is the purpose of that muzzle brake arrangement? Puffbacks?

coal berner wrote
Yes you are correct On A A & AHS the baro should be closer to the chimney. Aswell the stove pipe shound be half way
into the tee where the baro is when looking threw the baro flap door you should see the stove pipe at the half way point
in the Tee does not look like you have set up like that hard to tell from your pics but it looks like to me you have the
stove pipe right at the end of the tee and not inside at the half way point of the tee .[/quote]

I believe Axeman recommends this tee setup in there installation manual, AHS does not. I have 2 ahs 130's and have no problems.
Just what is the purpose for this arrangement?

Mazzy

coaledsweat wrote:

coal berner wrote:the stove pipe shound be half way into the tee where the baro is when looking threw the baro flap door you should see the stove pipe at the half way point

What is the purpose of that muzzle brake arrangement? Puffbacks?

Yes helps with the boom boom puffbacks & helps with the flames from coming out threw the baro .
There are alot of threads about this he is one do a search on here you will see alot more.
It is about about the draft with either the AA or AHS .

AHS 130 Boom, Da Boom, Da Boom,Boom,Boom