Liesureline AA220, DHW coil for heat run, need ideas!

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Frank F
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Post by Frank F » Tue. Oct. 12, 2021 8:43 am

Hello all,

My AA220 is installed in my barn and the lines are ran to the house.

Will h that said my boiler also has a 6gpm domestic hot water coil. I would like to use that coil to run a fan coil to heat the barn. 28*40. Not looking for 100 degrees just to keep things from freezing. That way it’s isolated and I can run coolant in the line. In case I have to shut boiler down.

What’s the cheapest way to run this? Do I need a taco board to run circulator? Hydrostat, aquastats for high limits…..

I know I need air scoop, expansion tank….

What do I need? …..
Fan coil
Aquastat

Thank you


 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Tue. Oct. 12, 2021 9:14 am

Hi Frank. You would set this up just like any other zone, difference being this loop will need its own air scoop, expansion tank, water feeder, etc. Your switching relay will signal a heat call to the boiler - you should not need any additional aquastats.

How much heat do you need for the barn?

 
Frank F
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Post by Frank F » Tue. Oct. 12, 2021 9:52 am

Rob R. wrote:
Tue. Oct. 12, 2021 9:14 am
Hi Frank. You would set this up just like any other zone, difference being this loop will need its own air scoop, expansion tank, water feeder, etc. Your switching relay will signal a heat call to the boiler - you should not need any additional aquastats.

How much heat do you need for the barn?

My taco board (is that the switching relay?)is in the house basement. I was hoping to keep this all outside. Sorry I’m still not an expert with all the terminology!!

Heat for barn, I’ll have to complete a calculation. But it’s 28’*40’*10’, has 4” thick foam board all the way around with all joints spray foamed and walls are covered with metal inside and out. There it one window 4’x4’, and (biggest heat loss I think would be garage door, it’s 10’x9’ I think with 1” foam board stuffed in slats). Also the concrete floor does not have insulation under most of it. The boiler should put off some heat on its own too.

6gpm heat coil, how does that transfer to BTUs?

 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Tue. Oct. 12, 2021 4:25 pm

Frank F wrote:
Tue. Oct. 12, 2021 9:52 am
6gpm heat coil, how does that transfer to BTUs?
If we assume it is used as intended to heat DHW, that the boiler water is 180 degrees, and the coil is capable of heating incoming water at 50 degrees up to 120 degrees at a rate of 6 gallons per minute then you have ~210,000 BTUH DHW coil, if I did all the math right..

8.34 pounds per gallon × 6 gallons × 70 degrees (temp change of water) × 60 minutes

But that gets a lot more complicated since you'll be using it for a different purpose, with different input and output water circulation temperatures, with furthermore a different dynamic between the boiler temperature and the water coil temperature. We learned in thermodynamics class that as temperatures start to balance they do so more slowly meaning you wouldn't get that same BTU rating going to whatever you plan to use to transfer the heat to the room (baseboard radiators, heat exchanger ECT)... I don't even know how that could be calculated lol

I do have half a hunch though that it will work to heat your barn 8-)

 
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hotblast1357
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Post by hotblast1357 » Wed. Oct. 13, 2021 6:00 am

If you have to shut down the boiler because of freezing what are you gonna do about the water in the boiler?

This would be a lot easier if you just tied into your feed and return with another circulator and heated the barn that way.. put antifreeze back in when you do the connection and bam the hole system is safe.

 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Wed. Oct. 13, 2021 7:07 am

I was thinking the boiler was in its own heated room. If not...run antifreeze in the entire system, or none of it.

 
Frank F
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Post by Frank F » Wed. Oct. 13, 2021 7:29 am

hotblast1357 wrote:
Wed. Oct. 13, 2021 6:00 am
If you have to shut down the boiler because of freezing what are you gonna do about the water in the boiler?

This would be a lot easier if you just tied into your feed and return with another circulator and heated the barn that way.. put antifreeze back in when you do the connection and bam the hole system is safe.
The boiler is in its own heated and insulated room. Electric or kerosene if the boiler had to be shut down. I’m not thinking I’ll have to shut down due to freezing but if I went on vacation I wouldn’t have to worry about that single loop. I know the main system is good if we shut down mid winter(I did last year).

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Frank F
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Post by Frank F » Wed. Oct. 13, 2021 7:29 am

Rob R. wrote:
Wed. Oct. 13, 2021 7:07 am
I was thinking the boiler was in its own heated room. If not...run antifreeze in the entire system, or none of it.
It is. I added a picture above.

Thanks again!

 
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Post by swyman » Wed. Oct. 13, 2021 2:07 pm

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Frank, when I had my AA220 in the barn, it did a great job of heating it just off the boiler. Take down the walls or put some ducting blowing out. That boiler puts off quite a bit of heat on it's own. Here's a pic, 2 1/2 car space with 10' ceiling's, 28' deep.

 
Frank F
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Post by Frank F » Wed. Oct. 13, 2021 4:40 pm

swyman wrote:
Wed. Oct. 13, 2021 2:07 pm
20160120_202816.jpgFrank, when I had my AA220 in the barn, it did a great job of heating it just off the boiler. Take down the walls or put some ducting blowing out. That boiler puts off quite a bit of heat on it's own. Here's a pic, 2 1/2 car space with 10' ceiling's, 28' deep.
I wasn’t sure that would be enough heat for the building. Most of the time I’d like to just keep it around 45 ish. But if I plan to work out there for the weekend I’d like to be able to kick it up to 65 or 70.

You think it’s capable of making that kind of heat. I know when boiler room door is closed without insulation on the boiler the room stayed in the 80’s.

But the barn is much larger, and I feel like I’m wasting coal by not utilizing that additional coil!

 
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Post by Frank F » Fri. Oct. 15, 2021 8:21 am

I feel like by not using the DHW coil I’m loosing efficiency.?

When the house isn’t calling for heat but it’s still burning that DHW coil would be taking the residual BTUs for my barn.

Am I not looking at that the right way?

 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Fri. Oct. 15, 2021 9:48 am

You won't burn less coal by heating a larger area - but you might use some btu's that would otherwise go somewhere else. Up the chimney, into the ash pan, etc.

 
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Post by Frank F » Fri. Oct. 15, 2021 11:45 am

Rob R. wrote:
Fri. Oct. 15, 2021 9:48 am
You won't burn less coal by heating a larger area - but you might use some btu's that would otherwise go somewhere else. Up the chimney, into the ash pan, etc.
Rob, if I run this zone off the DHW coil will I have to keep the circulator so the water doesn’t overheat?

 
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swyman
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Post by swyman » Fri. Oct. 15, 2021 3:13 pm

Frank, I couldn't control the heat in the barn from what came off the boiler, that's why I put it in the house. Wanted the boiler heat under the living room and I put a coil out in the barn so I could control the temp where I wanted it. The room in the basement the boiler was in stayed in the high 80's. Barn with boiler in it would stay no less than 45 on cold days up to 70 on a calm warm winter day

 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Fri. Oct. 15, 2021 5:48 pm

Frank F wrote:
Fri. Oct. 15, 2021 11:45 am
Rob, if I run this zone off the DHW coil will I have to keep the circulator so the water doesn’t overheat?
Nope. It can't get warmer than the boiler water.


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