LL AA-220 Relocation
- lsayre
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This plus verifying that you can push 18 lbs. per hour (if/when actually needed) and I think your nightmares will be over. Getting the boiler fired early is going to give you a noticeably huge boost. Hopefully the Delta-T issue should prove to be of little to no concern in the light of this improvement. But if the home stays warm with the blower on low speed, I would leave it that way.
As I'm pondering this, you may find the boiler testing its high/high limit cut-out on occasion now though.
- swyman
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I could always lower my boiler temp 10* or so if that were the case? I may actually do that anyway till it gets colder. Another thing is even if my stokers could push 18 lbs per hour I could never burn it with the power vent installed. I cannot burn with the screws maxed out as it is. But still nice to know what it could be capable of. I will perform that test once my power vent starts losing efficiency and needs cleaned.lsayre wrote: ↑Mon. Oct. 22, 2018 2:03 pmThis plus verifying that you can push 18 lbs. per hour (if/when actually needed) and I think your nightmares will be over. Getting the boiler fired early is going to give you a noticeably huge boost. Hopefully the Delta-T issue should prove to be of little to no concern in the light of this improvement. But if the home stays warm with the blower on low speed, I would leave it that way.
As I'm pondering this, you may find the boiler testing its high/high limit cut-out on occasion now though.
- lsayre
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I would INITIALLY see if it runs OK without dropping the temperature 10 degrees. Changing too many things at one time generally leaves you wondering what changes worked and what changes didn't work.
Short version: Make only one change at a time.
- Rob R.
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Earlier you mentioned that you are running a Hydrostat 3250 control. These controls have an economy feature. Since you have been struggling with boiler recovery times, I would shut off the economy feature. If down the road you find that the boiler is running hot or always hitting the high limit, you can re-enable the economy feature with a setting of 1.
- lsayre
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I presume the economy feature will delay the firing until some of the latent heat of the boiler is sent off to and scrubbed off by the users, and that a setting of 1 is the least aggressive 'economy' setting. ???Rob R. wrote: ↑Mon. Oct. 22, 2018 8:12 pmEarlier you mentioned that you are running a Hydrostat 3250 control. These controls have an economy feature. Since you have been struggling with boiler recovery times, I would shut off the economy feature. If down the road you find that the boiler is running hot or always hitting the high limit, you can re-enable the economy feature with a setting of 1.
I agree that swyman needs to avoid this option until later.
- swyman
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I never turned this feature on but also never looked to see if it is? I will double check and I got busy last night and did not get to run the wires from controller to aquastat. Warmed up here quite a bit but checked on the boiler this morning after a heat call and boiler temp was 163. Getting this wired up should really help my cause. The neighbors are thrilled that I'm burning again, been filling the potholes in the road with my coal ash! I think the buck ash will hold better being bigger!
- swyman
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I been thinking and have a question... do you think I would have less fly ash in my flue if I moved my damper from the bottom of my vertical pipe to the top? I have a Tee directly on the breech collar and the damper on the vertical with 3' on pipe above that before going horizontal. Just thinking about the pressure differential...if I am at .04 to the damper and with the damper being slightly open that would increase the velocity sending more fly ash through the rest of the pipe? Would putting at top cause more fly ash to fall to the bottom of the Tee? Or better 12' away by the power vent?
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Hello swyman,
If you have the RC barometric damper from Field Controls they want the barometric damper to be as close as possible to the furnace or boiler according to the literature I have for the 4-7 inch barometric dampers.
It may just be simpler to add a section of flue pipe to the flue breech horizontally and then a install a Tee vertically at the end of that flue pipe joint and put a cap on the end of this tee so that you can vacuum out the short section as needed and then you can install the barometric damper in the end of the new vertical stove pipe joint in a second tee and then connect that tee to the flue pipe going to the power venter.
Just be sure to use self tapping screws to have a tight stove pipe joint and stove pipe tape if you need it.
If you have the RC barometric damper from Field Controls they want the barometric damper to be as close as possible to the furnace or boiler according to the literature I have for the 4-7 inch barometric dampers.
It may just be simpler to add a section of flue pipe to the flue breech horizontally and then a install a Tee vertically at the end of that flue pipe joint and put a cap on the end of this tee so that you can vacuum out the short section as needed and then you can install the barometric damper in the end of the new vertical stove pipe joint in a second tee and then connect that tee to the flue pipe going to the power venter.
Just be sure to use self tapping screws to have a tight stove pipe joint and stove pipe tape if you need it.
- swyman
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I have an 8" RC BD but directions are probably the same. As far as Tee's, I cannot add anymore as according to the power vent manufacture each Tee adds the equivalent of 50' of pipe so I need to keep them to a minimum. I found this pic on installation directions, think I would benefit by moving the baro up to the center of my 3' vertical run? Right now it's at the bottom straight off the Tee.lzaharis wrote: ↑Tue. Oct. 23, 2018 1:43 pmHello swyman,
If you have the RC barometric damper from Field Controls they want the barometric damper to be as close as possible to the furnace or boiler according to the literature I have for the 4-7 inch barometric dampers.
It may just be simpler to add a section of flue pipe to the flue breech horizontally and then a install a Tee vertically at the end of that flue pipe joint and put a cap on the end of this tee so that you can vacuum out the short section as needed and then you can install the barometric damper in the end of the new vertical stove pipe joint in a second tee and then connect that tee to the flue pipe going to the power venter.
Just be sure to use self tapping screws to have a tight stove pipe joint and stove pipe tape if you need it.
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pic of the baro location...
it sounds like it is where it should be...
it sounds like it is where it should be...
- McGiever
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A tee only adds equivalent 50' straight for a directional turn...going straight thru is not the same...usually tees get added at a point where a 90 bend was going anyways...so nothing is really being added that wasn't there to start with.